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Removing/replacing a 200TDi timing chest


Les Henson
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The reason for removing the timing chest is because oil is leaking from where the timing rear case is bolted to the engine block. Looks like a bit of a bodge in the past - judging by the RTV sealant that's everywhere. This thread includes removal of the alternator, PAS pump, timing gear, sprockets, cam and crank oil seals, and all relevant gaskets. 80-odd pictures to keep you amused :)

Oily mess-

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Nice and dry at the top, so not the rocker gasket or head gasket. The only other place at the front of the engine that oil can leak from is inside or behind the timing case. No oil coming out of the wading plug hole, so timing case/engine block gasket is the likely culprit.

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Disconnect the battery.

Remove top intercooler hose, top radiator hose, air filter (this is 200TDi conversion in a 90, so standard filter), both air filter hoses, disconnect engine breather and tuck it out of the way.

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Viscous fan next - the correct spanner to engage on the nut, then a sharp whack with a hammer in a clockwise direction should undo it.

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Remove the alternator adjuster slide bolt, then push the alternator downwards and towards the engine, unhook the drive belt, remove the top long bolt and lift the alternator out and lay it on top of the engine with the wiring still connected.

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Slacken the 3 bolts that hold the PAS pump to the mounting bracket, push the pump in towards the engine, then remove the drive belt and then the alternator drive belt, which is behind it. Rest the PAS pump down out of the way with the pipes still connected.

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Alternator/PAS pump mounting bracket next - 5 bolts (one is missing on this engine)

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Remove the water pump bypass elbow, disconnect the bottom radiator hose where it connects to the pump and allow the coolant to drain out.

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Crank bolt next, and the following method to undo it is not recommended. You will need the propr locking tool to undo it otherwise.

Disconnect the fuel solenoid at the back of the injector pump

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A 30mm socket on a breaker bar with the bar under the L/H side chassis rail.

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Turn the ignition key - there should be a bang and the engine will turn a few times (it won't start). The crank bolt will now be loose and can be undone with a normal 1/2" drive ratchet.

The crank pulley may just slide off with a little persuation from a pry bar or similar. Be careful not to damage the timing cover if you have to lever the pulley.

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The timing cover can now be removed - draw a sketch of the timing cover on a piece of card, then make holes in the same position as the bolts to keep them in the right order (they are varying lengths)

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This picture shows all the bolts that need to be removed - some of which also pass through the water pump. Water pump and water channel bolts can be siezed, so take care when removing them.

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Timing belt, tensioner, idler, and sprockets - all of which have to be removed.

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Clean carefully around the timing case/block join to prevent dirt from getting in the sump.

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Setting the timing - marks are highlighted. Put the crank bolt back in and turn it clockwise until the woodruff key is at 12 o clock and the cam sprocket timing pip is in line with the timing case web. In this position, a 9mm drill bit/timing setting pin will slide through the injector pump sprocket and into a setting hole in the pump housing (don't worry too much if the pin doesn't fit - you'll lose the timing anyway).

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While the belt is still on, slacken the cam sprocket bolt - prevent the sprocket from turning/jumping the belt, then undo the bolt a few turns.

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Undo the idler nut (15mm), then undo the tensioner bolt and remove it. Remove belt, tensioner, and idler wheel.

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Undo and remove the 3 x 10mm head bolts that secure the injector pump sprocket to it's drive flange. remove the cam sprocket bolt and remove them both.

The injector pump drive flange will turn back a small amount as soon as you remove the setting pin, but don't worry about it.

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Crank sprocket next - apply leverage to it and it should just slide forwards. Be careful not to damage the timing case when doing this.

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Stripped case - ready to be removed. Carefully clean around the join to the block - when you remove the rear case, the sump will be accessible, so clean carefully to prevent dirt from falling inside.

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Component parts of the timing case.

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The timing case is now ready to be removed. 4-bolts underneath (3-through the sump and one on the left), 2 inside the case itself, 3 nuts that holds the injector pump to the rear of the case, 2 bolts top, right, and one at the bottom, right (not shown).

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The timing case will then come away with some careful leverage.

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Remove all dirt, bits of gasket, RTV, and oil from the face of the engine block - be careful not to let bits get inside the sump, which is now open at the bottom.

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Clean the timing case inside and out - remove cam and crank seals by knocking them out with a blunt screwdriver, remove old gasket, dirt, etc.

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lightly grease the oil seal holes, the edge of the seals themselves, then press them in.

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Stick a new injector pump gasket in place with some grease.

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3-gaskets to go on the engine block - timing case gasket, intermediate gasket, and a small circular gasket that prevets oil from seeping into the case. Two areas are prone to leaking - the intermediate gasket and where water passes through the case to the pump. For this reason I use RTV sealant as well.

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Intermdiate gasket location - a thin film of RTV, then stick the gasket to it.

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On the timing case - apply a thin layer of rtv sealant to the bottom where it locates on the ladder frame, another layer where the water channel passes to the water pump, and some more where the intermediate gasket is.

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Apply a thin layer of RTV to the ladder frame - making sure you get it into the corners.

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Replace the timing case and bolt it on along with the injector pump.

lightly grease the crank nose, the seal land on the sprocket, then tap it back on - making sure it aligns with the woodruff key.

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Lightly grease the seal land on the cam sprocket, and the nose of the cam itself, clean any threadlock off the bolt and lightly tighten it - do not apply fresh threadlock at this time.

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Replace the injector pump sprocket and finger tighten the bolts so that it can still rotate against the drive flange. Once the sprocket is on, rotate the pump until the timing pin goes back in as shown.

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Make sure the crank hasn't moved - there's an arrow in the casting that has to align with the woodruff key. Check also that the cam sprocket is still on the timing marks.

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Replace the idler wheel, place the timing belt on the crank sprocket first and keep it engaged by jamming a bit of cardboard or similar in the gap underneath it. Feed the belt around the idler, so that the back of the belt is on it, then over the cam sprocket - making sure the belt is tight ( you may have to manipulate the cam/crank sprockets to achieve this). The injector pump sprocket will move the equivalent of 3-teeth, so set it in the middle of it's travel and wrap the belt over it - again with no play between it and the cam sprocket. Locate the tensioner on it's pivot point, pull the tensioner upwards, then replace the tensioner bolt and torque it correctly.

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Tighten the three bolts on the injector pump flange, remove the setting pin, then rotate the engine twice clockwise, re-check the timing marks/setting pin, and adjust again if necessary.

Remove the cam sprocket bolt, apply threadlock, then refit and tighten it. RTV sealant where the water channel passes through the timing case, clean the timing cover and replace the dust seal, then replace all bolts.

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Clean the seal land on the crank pulley, apply a film of grease, then re-fit the pulley. Clean the bolt thread and apply threadlock, wait a while for it run around the thread and then re-fit it.

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Replace the PAS pump, finger tighten the three bolts, put the alternator belt on the rear pulley, they fit the PAS belt. Place a 1/2 drive bar in the PAS mounting plate, tension the belt, then tighten the 3 bolts.

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Replace the alternator, put the long bolt through the top pivot point and lossely tighten it, replace the adjuster slide bolt, and lever the alternator as shown and then tighten the bolts.

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Reconnect all pipework and the fuel solenoid wire, refill the system (min 40% antifreeze). Turn the key and allow the engine to idle until warmed-up. Watch out for any leaks.

Torque settings as follows -

Timing belt idler wheel (15mm nut) - 45nm (33lb ft)

Timing belt tension (new belt) - 19nm (14lb ft) - (old belt) - 17nm (13lb ft)

Timing belt tensioner bolt (13mm bolt) - 45nm (33lb ft)

Injector pump sprocket bolts - 25nm (18lb ft)

Crank bolt - 340nm (251 lb ft)

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