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Out Rigger To Body Bracket Gone Wrong


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What I thought would be a simple job has gone wrong

On my 110 half way down the vehicle is an out rigger that has 2 bolt on brackets that go to the body.

Just my luck that the aluminium has totally disappeared where the bracket has to go.

Take a look at the pic

post-4554-1243547038_thumb.jpg

Not only did the out rigger shed most of its self in rust and the brackets had to be ground off but when I finally made some space the aluminium has totally rotted away around where the bracket goes.

On the outer bracket it also secures the safety belt bracket

Take a look at the pic

post-4554-1243547247_thumb.jpg

Between the safety belt bracket and the aluminium was more than 5mm of white aluminium oxide. What a mess but atleast there is some of the panel where the bracket goes.

My question is how do I mend this??

If I were to bolt on some steel and put grease between the aluminium and the steel would that do it for the mot.

I don't know any one who welds aluminium, does Les Henson because he is doing my rear cross member on monday so maybe able to help.

My MOT expires on Wednesday and is booked for Tuesday so I am feeling desperate now.

I had a job getting the brackets in the first place as I was told nobody has ever had theirs rot, I think this maybe a bit untrue so I am hoping someone knows exactly what to to???

Finally do I need to paint the bits before I assemble them (safety belt bracket, out rigger, aluminium panel), never had much luck with paint stopping rust, or will liberal dollops of waxoil be enough to stop the rust killing my chassis and outrigger any more.

Thank you thank you

Ed

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Thanks Ralph

Over night I have found a suitable piece of aluminium sheet.

Would that eliminate the need for jointing compound?

Is this repair going to be strong enough.

I was thinking of putting in quite a large panel with 3 bolts at the top edge and a couple at the bottom taking in both joining areas.

It can't have been very strong only going to aluminium in the first place.

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Thanks Ralph

Over night I have found a suitable piece of aluminium sheet.

Would that eliminate the need for jointing compound?

Is this repair going to be strong enough.

I was thinking of putting in quite a large panel with 3 bolts at the top edge and a couple at the bottom taking in both joining areas.

It can't have been very strong only going to aluminium in the first place.

As Ralph says; 'use jointing compound'. not ordinary grease, because it absorbes water.

The lack of a proper waterproof 'jointing juice' is what has caused the electrolitic corrosion to be so bad.

Howard,

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What is jointing compound and where to buy??

Now that I am using aluminium as the repair panel is it still important?

Does grease really absorb water?

Thanks again..........

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Would you believe it there is a yacht chandlers on cheltenham high street with some in stock!

I'll see how it goes

Are ther any tips in its usage? Does it all just squeese out if you tighten it up too much?

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Would you believe it there is a yacht chandlers on cheltenham high street with some in stock!

I'll see how it goes

Are ther any tips in its usage? Does it all just squeese out if you tighten it up too much?

good result then, not to far to get some,

depending on the container it comes in, either a tin, tube or sealant cartridge, you can use it in a sealant gun to squeeze it onto the surfaces or use something to push the plunger down & spread it on the surfaces with a small brush or fingers, get a good covering & join the parts together, just wipe of any excess that squeezes out of the joints.

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I was wondering if I should waxoyl the place where the safety bracket has sat on the aluminium on the second photo before i then use the jointing compound, it seems very corroded and bare to just use the jointing stuff straight on to.

I was thinking to paint some waxoyl and i have red oxided the safety bracket and then to put the jointing compound between on fitting

Is this right?

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the jointing compound is also anti-corrrosive, iif you get the duralac stuff, it's near enough the same as used on aircraft, put it on etch primed surfaces then, paint/underseal or waxoyl the finished repaierd area.

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I don't have any etch primer and the ali metal there is so corroded and holey

Is it totally wrong to put waxoyl straight onto the bare corroded alumunium then the duralac onto the back of the bracket.Bolt them up and squeese out the excess.

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All today I prepared everything to be bolted together tomorrow

It's just the ali etch primer left to solve

The etch primer has to go on mint shiney aluminium for it to adhere i assume

It is quite a tight spot covered in old waxoyl, left over white corrosion and pitted holes etc

Will i succeed in making it clean enough to then etch prime

I was thinking that a liberal coat of waxoyl would do as good a job as stopping the rot in the ali . Am I dreaming!

What about a piece of inner tube between the bracket and the ali sheet

Thanks for all your input so far Ralph

I am sure i can get etch primer tomorrow but how successful will it be if I can't get the area shiney clean..........

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doesn't have to be shiney, but as clean as possible,

the waxoyl should help keep any moisture out, but that's what the joint compound job is,

I'd put the compound on, bolt it all together & then paint the lot & then when paint is dry, coat it well in waxoyl, both sides if possible, should keep it good for a few more years.

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What is jointing compound and where to buy??

Now that I am using aluminium as the repair panel is it still important?

Does grease really absorb water?

Thanks again..........

Ordinary grease is a good lubricant, but not the best corrosion inhibitor (but better than nothing). traditionly it was made by mixing soap with oil!

and this is why traditionly, Vaseline (petrolium jelly) is recomended for battery terminals (I now use Waxoil).

If you take the lid off a tin of lithium grease, put a steel bolt into it, leave it out in the rain for a few weeks, you will find that the rust from the bolt will diffuse through the grease.

I now use silicone grease for all sorts of things like the corrosion on the engine sump, and the diff pans, withstands the heat, and works well, I use 'waterproof' boat trailer wheel bearing grease for less demanding jobs, good stuff...

Recently a guy on one of these forums used 'damp proof course' (DPC) as an anti corrosion gasket, sounds good to me.

Howard.

O, and I would do what Ralph does.

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