reb78 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Right. I changed the drag link ball joint recently because there was play in the old one. Now the wheels react to the smallest turn of the steering wheel. However, there is still a tendancy to wander a little when travelling in a straight line at higher speeds. All bushes look fine and very little play. I thought i'd check the bearings just to be on the safe side. No excessive play there. BUT, when the driver side front wheel was off the ground, there is play if you try to lift the wheel upwards - i.e. when on axle stands, the wheel drops down to the 6 o clock position and the play is there as you can lift the wheel up from underneath towards the 12 o clock position. It feels really loose in this plane. The passenger side is fine, bearing adjusted correctly and no play in either horizontal or vertical planes. The swivel ball is quite pitted on the driver side (with the play) and the seal on the swivel ball is leaking slightly there, so both probably need replacing, but what is likely to be the cause of the play on this side? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 probably the swivel pins, try taking a shim out of the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 probably the swivel pins, try taking a shim out of the top If it's a railko bush, taking a shim out won't affect it, as the bush isn't tapered. When I discovered similar play, I rebuilt the swivel, the railko bush was shot, but I replaced the bottom bearings for good measure. It's an easy enough job, plus you get to be sure everything is tip-top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Surely it adjusts the bottom taper bearing though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 If it's a railko bush, taking a shim out won't affect it, as the bush isn't tapered.When I discovered similar play, I rebuilt the swivel, the railko bush was shot, but I replaced the bottom bearings for good measure. It's an easy enough job, plus you get to be sure everything is tip-top yes it will. always has on my '89 110 with the rialko top bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 If it's a railko bush, taking a shim out won't affect it, as the bush isn't tapered.When I discovered similar play, I rebuilt the swivel, the railko bush was shot, but I replaced the bottom bearings for good measure. It's an easy enough job, plus you get to be sure everything is tip-top It is quite a lot of play - not just a gentle rock. its hard to imagine how removing a thin shim will eliminate this. If it was less then i can see how that would work. Its a 1989 110 - so does that mean it is a railko bush - (i think so according to the workshop manual)? I think the whole lot will have to come apart to replace the swivel ball, so i'll do the bearings etc anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 swivel pins/bushes 110 upto chassis number 930434, so covers yours & my '89 110's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 swivel pins/bushes 110 upto chassis number 930434, so covers yours & my '89 110's Cheers Ralph. Will try taking a shim out and see. I suppose to do it properly i should set the swivel preload and this would set it properly? or just take a shim or two out and see? As a short measure i could take some shims out and see as i'm gonna have to re-build the housing anyway with a new swivel ball soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Just had a quick look and there appears to only be one thin shim in under the pin housing. Is it ok to take this out and run without shims, and/or does this point to a shot bush that needs replacing? Is it ok to drive without any reapirs for the time being? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 mpst shim material is multi layered so you might be able to peel one thin layer off, otherwise it'll be a full reset as per the manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 mpst shim material is multi layered so you might be able to peel one thin layer off, otherwise it'll be a full reset as per the manual. Correct again! removed the pin and there were two shims. I tried it with the thinnest forst, but there was no play long before i'd torqued the bolts up! I put the thicker shim in and there was just noticeable play befpre the bolts were tightened which went as i torqued up the bolts. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 one day you'll drive it instead of fixing it glad the info helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 one day you'll drive it instead of fixing it Haha. Its on the road the whole time, but i do seem to spend an awful lot of time perfecting it - just want to get it just right. Next job is a bit of chassis welding for thr MOT. Its generally not that bad, so should be a quick job (yeah right!!). It stood for a year from 2007-2008 as we just got a bit fed up with the old engine. Then i changed the engine to a 200tdi last summer (really nice engine) - the effects of standing didn't do it much good, so i'm gradually putting that to rights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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