Stu2985 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Now I have fitted a winch was wondering where to put the isolator switch doesnt seem to be a lot of room anywhere what have you guys done ? my isolator looks like this - i ahve no clue how to attach it to anything - the bottom nuts are for the live cables but do i need to drill a big old hole for it to sit in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 What are you trying to isolate and where do you expect to be when you operate it ? If it's for your general vehicle electrics then having it somewhere inside the cab where both driver and passanger can reach it with their seatbelts on is normal. If you are anticipating isolating the winch with it then you need to look very carefully at the specs for both the winch and the switch. Those switches are normally rated at around 100A continuous. If your winch is likely to pull more than that (which most will) then you'll need a higher rated switch. Given those switches aren't waterproof either you don't want to mount it in the engine bay if you can help it. To mount it you need to drill a hole big enough for the key hole "tube" to go through, the body of the switch is designed to go underneath the panel it's mounted on, if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ3120 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I fitted mine on the grill, just to isolate the winch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu2985 Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 thanx for the replies it is to isolate the winch postive cable wasnt sure how it fitted or where to put it the switch came with the winch so I hope its correctly rated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtail4x4 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I have my cut out just under the bonnet, before use I pop the bonnet and turn the key, it has been known for scrotes to pull the winch cable over the car to the towbar, then short the controls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 None of the cables or switches commonly seen on 4x4s are capable of a 100% duty cycle (constant use). That isolator may only be rated at 100amps at 100%, but you never use winches for very long periods of time at full load. For example a typical winch may draw 420 amps at full load and is supplied with 35mm2 cables http://www.superwinch.com/X9_9_000_lbs.html And 35mm2 cables can only handle 410 amps at a 30% duty cycle http://www.vandapower.be/PDF/battery%20cab...EN%20v.1008.pdf Makeing the wiring system handle 100% duty would not be practical. The isolator may well be suitable for what the winch is likel to do though use it hard for long periods of time whithout resting and there will be a risk of melting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 100amp version lasted for nearly 10 years so you should be OK. or you can upgrade the isolator to this one my Heavy duty battery isolator. Phenolic moulding with steel fixing plate and removable key. 10mm studs. 250A @ 24V, 2500A for 5 secs. Ref 60550. £26.50 from Vehicle Wiring Products got mine from my local auto electrical dealer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu2985 Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 thanx for the the help I have it all fitted now however in the instructions it doesnt mention fitting an inline fuse anywhere after I put it all together I have realised there is no fuse between the battery and winch I assume it should really be fused any idea what the fuse should be rated at ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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