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Update on work done continued....

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Hi I have found that the four bearmach injectors i bought seemed faulty as one leaks from inside the injector, two dont fit properly into the engine head and one creates a loud knocking when used with the engine, lot of good they were, anyway had a quiet word with supplier and they are going to send out four new ones for monday. I put the old injectors in to check the new ones. I asked a mechanic over the road to have a listen the knocking noise and he confirmed that the engine seems fine and that the noise is a diesel knock. He showed me how to move the timing on the pump by undoing the three nuts and swiveling it to get rid of it, by the way i found the bottom nut already loose,mmmmmm wonder whos had a mess around before. anyway got rid of knocking but how do i know if ived got it correct and not too much the other way without forking out for timing pins????

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I *do* have the special pins so treat this with a pinch of salt... if nothing else it's a free bump and perhaps one of the grownups will chip in

According to the book the flywheel slot corresponds to Piston #1 EP (peak opening of the exhaust valve). [Note that the Haynes manual confusingly uses "TDC" and "EP" interchangeably - which they're not, afaik]. So you may be able to find that just by peeking through the breather/filler cap. Alternatively the Haynes manual suggests making the tool by drilling a spare plug and inserting a 3/16in drill.

Likewise Haynes suggests making the pump locking tool by "obtaining a spare timing aperture blanking plug and accurately drilling a hole through its centre to accept a 5/32in drill".

I imagine the former works pretty well but the latter will be tricky. Also the 'real' pump tool is sprung and has marks scribed on it so you can see it 'dip' as you go through the mark. YMMV.

Alternatively you can just do the 'TLAR' method (That Looks About Right) - or more importantly TSAR - (That Sounds About Right). I've been told that you want it slightly advanced so that it sounds a bit clattery at cold idle and then smooths out at warm idle. The pins seem to set them up somewhat retarded - I think they do that so they will run on any old fuel - I set mine with the pins, marked it with paint, and then advanced it a few degrees 'by ear'. In the absence of the pins to set a starting point you might want to set it completely retarded and work forward from there.

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If i remember rightly you can make up your own timing pins one is just a 9mm drill bit for the pump and the other is a wading plug with a small drill bit in the middle but i cant remember what size all i know is it was an imperial one

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