foggy3061 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 As for my connector search, I think I'm going to cut my losses and buy a 15-way connector from VWP, cut the existing one off and fit a new male/female set. It's the most hassle-free way. Not sure if you have already, but have you tried asking at a Land Rover dealer to see if the instrument loom to main dash loom 14way sumitomo connector halves are available separatley as spare parts? I know other vehicle manufactures will sell you connectors separately, it would be mighty handy if Land Rover did to save people having to buy whole looms for one connector! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 i couldn't get the td5 temp gauge to work either so replaced it with the same VDO one you have did it work with the td5 wiring i can t get mine to work i need to rewire it to orignal spec not td5 spec i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 did it work with the td5 wiring i can t get mine to work i need to rewire it to orignal spec not td5 spec i think Yes, find ED's post within the wibbly wobbly speedo thread, he moved the temp gauge wire to another terminal on the back of the Td5 speedo & got his temp gauge working ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 sorry to but in on this link,i have done this mod my self but have a high temp reading i am using a two hundred temp sender, what this about about using three hundred and two hundred senders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 to make the Td5 temp gauge work with my 200Tdi, I used a 300Tdi green top [plastic insert] temp sender, I modified a 200Tdi sender to act as an adaptor, like this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14892&st=175 works fine for me using the R.O.W. 300Tdi spec gauge wiring loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 ok thanks o wise one mr weston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Check my diagram here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&s...st&p=406939 On the secondary (less wires on it) speedo plug, you want the signal from the 300Tdi green sender in on pin 5, and out from pin 9 to the gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 or use 15amp spade connectors, which I did on the original loom to get the TD5 pack to work, since replaced by the 300Tdi ROW loom & a 2001 Freelander vehicle socket. might be worth a look around a Scrappy for a dead Freelander & obtain the socket from it. If you're off to the scrappy looking for a Freelander to get the connector from, here's where to find it - Not sure if you have already, but have you tried asking at a Land Rover dealer to see if the instrument loom to main dash loom 14way sumitomo connector halves are available separatley as spare parts? I know other vehicle manufactures will sell you connectors separately, it would be mighty handy if Land Rover did to save people having to buy whole looms for one connector! Land Rover don't sell connectors separately If you look in RAVE at the connector face details you'll see a Rover Group part number under the illustration, a VERY FEW connectors are available from Rover car parts dealers (e.g. Rimmer Brothers), but not this particular one (YPC10495), nor many other Land Rover useful ones. I got my tame main dealer parts man to look up some of the connector part numbers from RAVE and none of them were valid part numbers, he suggested that they were Rover Group internal part numbers used for production purposes only. In fact, the only useful connectors that I've got through Rover dealers are the RISTS TTS connectors, used in the Range Rover Classic (and the real Mini) - Some of these RISTS TTS connectors are also available from Autosparks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Land Rover don't sell connectors separately If you look in RAVE at the connector face details you'll see a Rover Group part number under the illustration, a VERY FEW connectors are available from Rover car parts dealers (e.g. Rimmer Brothers), but not this particular one (YPC10495), nor many other Land Rover useful ones. I got my tame main dealer parts man to look up some of the connector part numbers from RAVE and none of them were valid part numbers, he suggested that they were Rover Group internal part numbers used for production purposes only. In fact, the only useful connectors that I've got through Rover dealers are the RISTS TTS connectors, used in the Range Rover Classic (and the real Mini) Some of these RISTS TTS connectors are also available from Autosparks Hmm, shame they don't! So its a freelander loom plug or replace the connecter with another high density connector. Next question:- The terminals fitted in the top and bottom Speedo plugs (C1061 & C1060, pink colour), anybody know where i could obtain these (or are they next to unobtainable like the Sumitomo connectors )? Require them so i can make the alteration to the TD5 instrument loom to make it work as per a ROW instrument loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 They appear very similar to ISO connectors used in the back of stereos. All I plan to do with my Td5 loom is add two more pins, and re-shuffle the wiring in the loom. Pins/plugs from here: http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting..._Connectors.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 you should be able to extract the existing pin/wire carefully & relocate it within the plugs, that's all Ed did with his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 He needs to add two pins though, the wire bringing the signal from the temp sender needs to go into pin 5 of the lower plug and then a wire needs to come out of pin 9 and go to the temp gauge. On a standard Td5 loom these pins are non-existant, the only pins in that plug are for the fuel gauge (from sender into pin 3, to gauge on pin 7 and low fuel light on pin 1). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 They appear very similar to ISO connectors used in the back of stereos. All I plan to do with my Td5 loom is add two more pins, and re-shuffle the wiring in the loom.Pins/plugs from here: http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting..._Connectors.htm Thats exactly my plan too, move the LGU from pin 8 on C1048 to pin 9 on C1061, then add a GU wire from C1048 to pin 5 on C1061, this will then give the wiring equivalent of the R.O.W instrument loom - as Edd has done. Just need the terminals to clip the 2 wires into the C1061 connector housing, and those look just the job! Thanks Retroanaconda On a standard Td5 loom these pins are non-existant, the only pins in that plug are for the fuel gauge (from sender into pin 3, to gauge on pin 7 and low fuel light on pin 1). Yep, so with the addition of the 2 extra wires to the lower speedo plug (C1061) it should effectively turn the TD5 instrument loom into a 'Rest Of World' instrument loom like Western has. I might add some extra wire length to my fuel and temp gauges though, to allow me to move them in the binnacle and fit a tacho next to the speedo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 there's enough wire within the Td5 loom to allow moving of the fuel & temp gauges, I've done the same so my rev counter sits by the speedo, then temp gauge & fuel on far right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 there's enough wire within the Td5 loom to allow moving of the fuel & temp gauges, I've done the same so my rev counter sits by the speedo, then temp gauge & fuel on far right. Excellent! Time to start unpicking loom tape then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 help everything works as it should but the speedo is well out at 55-60 the speedo says i am doing 120 what have i done wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 help everything works as it should but the speedo is well out at 55-60 the speedo says i am doing 120 what have i done wrong? which speedo gear have you got fitted & what size tyres? if on 235 or 7.50 tyres you need the 110 blue gear FRC3310 in the transfer box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 i think it has the red one in at mo i have the greena nd blue i am runnign 265s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 help everything works as it should but the speedo is well out at 55-60 the speedo says i am doing 120 what have i done wrong? which speedo gear have you got fitted & what size tyres? if on 235 or 7.50 tyres you need the 110 blue gear FRC3310 in the transfer box. surely even with the wrong speedo pinion ie 205 one with 235 tyres fitted or even 35" tyres you wouldn't get a 100% error sounds more like the transducer is over reading and their is a fault with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megansfolly Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 this is the second one i ve had from lr series the first was broken so sent back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foggy3061 Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 They appear very similar to ISO connectors used in the back of stereos. All I plan to do with my Td5 loom is add two more pins, and re-shuffle the wiring in the loom.Pins/plugs from here: http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_Stereo_fitting..._Connectors.htm I've found these terminals too, it appears the cable crimp can be in two orientations - these may affect how or if the terminal will latch into the connector (via the yellow plug/clip in the side of the connector). See the female terminal section: Vehicle Wiring Products There's a choice of 3 by the looks of things: 3-7210/3-7211, 3-2050 and 3-8050. Anyone hazard a guess at which might be best.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 this is the second one i ve had from lr series the first was broken so sent back I ordered the OEM version from LR series. It has all the hallmarks of a Britpart item so I sent it back and ordered the genuine part from them, only about £3 more than the OEM one. I've had it all connected on the bench and it seems to work OK, although I can't verify the MPH accuracy yet. My old speedo read spot on. Hopefully the new one will too. I have the green drive gear with 265 tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 i think it has the red one in at mo i have the greena nd blue i am runnign 265s use the blue gear, works fine on my 110 running 255/85 tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 How do you get the old gear out as i need to do this but the gear seems to be in there solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 How do you get the old gear out as i need to do this but the gear seems to be in there solid. remove the 10mm hex head bolt & U clamp, pull the speedo cable out or transducer whichever is fitted, get a large flat blade screwdriver or lever/prybar & get it under the edge of the large circule housing the speedo cable was sat on, prise the edge up & lever the housing out, if the gear doesn't come out with it, just use a rotating motion to unmesh it from the gear inside & pull out, refitting is 'the reverse of the removal process' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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