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chassis painting, and some other questions


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i have just had to remove the whole 200tdi engine in my defender (it needs a rebore :( ) so i stripped down of the whole front of the truck, im going to wire brush the chassis and give it a lick of paint any advice, i was going to just use black hammarite should i put a lacquer on top of that or what is that best stuff to use i dont want to put everything back together again and it looks sh**.

also im after a 1.667 ratio transfere box is there a good place to get one from around surrey/hampshire

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Welcome to LR4x4 :)

TBH chasis painting and protection is a subject that has been covered several times before so my advice would be to send a few minutes doing a forum search (both in here and in 'all forums') for such words as Hammerite, Waxoyl, rustproofing, painting, POR15, primer, chassis black, Schutz etc., etc.

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POR15 gets my vote, sticks like plop to a blanket even on rusty metal, better still on cleaned metal, followed with a top coat of Chassis Black.

Edit; loving the word filter / censor thing - "plop" is not what I wrote. :lol:

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Before 'n After :ph34r:

Les :unsure:

just a coment but i brought a range rover which had been to a visit at before n after and had a 5 year gaurantee but the underneath was only half covered (the 5 years was nearly up i was just supprised how little was still left on.

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just a coment but i brought a range rover which had been to a visit at before n after and had a 5 year gaurantee but the underneath was only half covered (the 5 years was nearly up i was just supprised how little was still left on.

You wont find many fans of before and after on this forum

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Any good metal paint will do. The disadvantage with Hammerite is it contains Silicone,

so can't be painted over by any other paints as they won't stick. So personally I stay

away from Hammerite.

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I would use waxoyl straight on to bare metal

The advantage is you can see where the job is failing a few years down the line, just scrape off in seconds and reapply with ease. Takes minutes. Removing paint takes hours. New waxoyl sticks and sticks.

Waxoyl can take coat on coat and you can thicken it up and dab it on by leaving out to evapourate a bit first.

Paint always fails in the long run and can cause more problems with water getting behind it.

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Zinc rich metal primer, about 2/3 coats with the first coat thinned right down so it gets right into all the little gaps.

Comes in black from my local body shop suppliers, finish off with a coat of proper chassis black.

I found Hammerite chips and waxoyl is OK for internal box sections and between metal/metal joints.

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