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Clutch Change


Paul

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Well I finally got around to the clutch change job. Thanks to those who replied to my earlier question in anticipation of this job. Les' suggestion of using two ropes (in my cases chains), one to lift the gearbox/transfer box, and another to stop the lot from trying to turn, was just the ticket.

I used an engine crane to do the job, since I had to do it all on my own (and I'm a weedy bugger to be honest).

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Two chains as I said, and it all pulled back enough to change the clutch & fork after the handbrake was removed from the transfer box.

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The old clutch was an AP brand, installed by the previous owner at 98,000km (currently up to 172,000km), so it only lasted 74,000km. I took White90s advice and replaced it with a 130 clutch, Valeo brand. Interestingly there's little difference between the actual plates, in fact the 130 plate is about 1mm smaller in diameter, but has 2 extra springs.

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The cover is quite different though, the 130 jobbie has the spring plate divided up into 18 segments whereas the AP is divided up into 15 segments.

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One thing I did do was to put a zip tie around the slave cylinder rod. It helps to make sure the thing doesn't drop out next time I have to remove the slave cylinder.

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I also found out why I had the occasional judder when letting the clutch out. I thought is was probably the clutch itself letting me know that its time was nearly up. I think this might be the real reason though:

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The mounting rubber on one side of the transfer box literally fell out when I unbolted it. :blink: Funny, it looked to be in perfect condition when it was still in place. :rolleyes:

The only whoopsie occured when I was having a period of deep enjoyment trying to line up the swinging monster to get the little shaft back in that little spiggot bearing. I must have been looking for something to brace myself with whilst pushing and lifting and twisting, and ended up leaning against the clutch pedal pushing it down slightly and popping the piston out of the slave cylinder. :angry: Thank goodness for those one man bleed kits.

Paul :)

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I did the tie-wrap (zip-tie) thing on mine also. Has worked a treat in that I've since replaced the slace cylinder and it pull off. I should have posted details up as a handy-hint, but I thought it was too obvious!

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Clutch doesn't look worn to me as there are still the radial grooves on the friction material and its not down to the rivets. Even the spring fingers on the cover don't seem to be that badly grooved. Was it actually slipping? If it was just judddering it was probably the mount as you say. Excellent idea for the cable tie on the clutch arm, wish I had thought of that when i did my gearbox change......

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Clutch doesn't look worn to me as there are still the radial grooves on the friction material and its not down to the rivets. Even the spring fingers on the cover don't seem to be that badly grooved. Was it actually slipping? If it was just judddering it was probably the mount as you say. Excellent idea for the cable tie on the clutch arm, wish I had thought of that when i did my gearbox change......

You're right Simon, it doesn't look at all worn. The spring fingers had hardly any groove from the thrust bearing and there wasn't any oil over it either. But, yes it was slipping, quite badly in fact. On a flat road full throttle in 4th gear at 60kph would make it slip badly. Steep hills were out of the question. There was plenty of free play in the pedal too, so I have no idea why it gave up the way it did.

Paul :)

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mines just gone in today for this job, stuff doing it myself to heavy & far too cold for a big job like that

Probably a smart move with the weather you guys get.

What sort of clutch are you replacing it with Ralph? 130 or std?

Paul :)

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Probably a smart move with the weather you guys get.

What sort of clutch are you replacing it with Ralph? 130 or std?

Paul :)

IIRC it's got a 130 version fitted at the moment which is duff for slipping, I just want it to work properly, but should be a 130 type.

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