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Im in the process of building up my dash, I have the standard pod, speed, temp, clock.

What other gauges are a little more useful?

I understand that the more gauges added the better understanding of what is or isn't happening in the engine.

So I was thinking of adding a Rev counter, then what else is more useful, Oil temp, Oil pressure, Air / Fuel ration?

Don't need a voltmeter as I have a spit charge system.

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Im in the process of building up my dash, I have the standard pod, speed, temp, clock.

What other gauges are a little more useful?

I understand that the more gauges added the better understanding of what is or isn't happening in the engine.

So I was thinking of adding a Rev counter, then what else is more useful, Oil temp, Oil pressure, Air / Fuel ration?

Don't need a voltmeter as I have a spit charge system.

I have oil pressure, turbo boost, ammeter and a voltmeter which switches between starter and auxilliary batteries.

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I added a voltmeter for safety after wire chafing from the back of the alternator left me with no charge in the middle of nowhere. No way to bump start, no phone reception - nightmare. The only indication I had that the alternator wasn't charging the battery was slightly slow wipers for about 30 secs before total shutdown. That was a fun night.

I guess you can jump start from the second battery, but I watch mine more than any others. If you've got a bad earth on indicators for example the voltmeter needle pulses in time with them, it does tell you a lot of stuff.

My 300tdi runs so cool an oil pressure gauge would make more sense than oil temp.

Chris [voltmeter fan]

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I plan on doing the same to mine, rev counter,volt meter and oil pressure would be my first choice. After that maybe a turbo gauge and there is a sat nav off a range rover sport on ebay but I cant afford it.

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The Voltmeter sounds like a good idea, if it is running off the alternator, which spade does this connect too on the back of it? Or do you just run it off one of the lines.

Connecting to the alternator will only tell you what the alternator is doing. A bit more information can be had by connecting it the ignition live (white on my 90) which also means the voltmeter doesn't sit there draining the battery with the ignition off. The wiring for a "battery condition meter" (voltmeter with a fancy name) is already fitted behind the often blanked-off right-hand hole in a 90 / 110 / 130 / early defender instrument panel (where the clock is in the original post).

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Connecting to the alternator will only tell you what the alternator is doing. A bit more information can be had by connecting it the ignition live (white on my 90) which also means the voltmeter doesn't sit there draining the battery with the ignition off. The wiring for a "battery condition meter" (voltmeter with a fancy name) is already fitted behind the often blanked-off right-hand hole in a 90 / 110 / 130 / early defender instrument panel (where the clock is in the original post).

thats sounds better, it that wire only live when you turn the key then?

And if so, is this a good one to tap into if you want to wire in aux equipment that is only active when the ignition is live?

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thats sounds better, it that wire only live when you turn the key then?

And if so, is this a good one to tap into if you want to wire in aux equipment that is only active when the ignition is live?

Yes, but if you want to make sure your accessory doesn't take the ignition out, use the green-only wires (assuming yours as a late 80s / early 90s model using British wiring colours) as this is fused seperately.

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Yes, but if you want to make sure your accessory doesn't take the ignition out, use the green-only wires (assuming yours as a late 80s / early 90s model using British wiring colours) as this is fused seperately.

I was thinking in relation to using that ignition wire as the trigger to activate the other side of a carling switch, which in then the small charge wire that goes onto a relay.

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I was thinking in relation to using that ignition wire as the trigger to activate the other side of a carling switch, which in then the small charge wire that goes onto a relay.

No problem with that at all.

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I have turbo boost, volt meter, oil pressure and coolant level.

If I were to pick just one of those, it'd be the coolant level, as I reckon failure through pump failure or a split hose or tank, is the quickest way you are going to kill an engine.

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I have turbo boost, volt meter, oil pressure and coolant level.

If I were to pick just one of those, it'd be the coolant level, as I reckon failure through pump failure or a split hose or tank, is the quickest way you are going to kill an engine.

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What sort of fitting would that be. Would it go on the lid of the pot?

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What sort of fitting would that be. Would it go on the lid of the pot?

It's a float switch from a Range Rover. Part No. PRC7925. I was also possibly fitted to some Vauxhalls.

DSC_3606.jpg

Once caveat is that the switch has a high resistance when closed, so it cannot be used to directly drive a warning relay/buzzer etc.

It does however work with a madman gauge, as described here

You could alternatively, use a float switch fitted directly to the tank

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