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Transfer box without oil, what breaks first?


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Hi.

Im about to embark on the mission to renovate my transfer box (LT230T, 4 cyl 1.4:1) since we drove it (a 200tdi) without any oil and that didnt go wery well. I would like to get a bit wiser before I (or a workshop) starts fibbling with it, so please enlighten me with your knowledge.

History:

My brother drove the car in 100km/h and he heard a loud bang. Then the car started making all kinds of noise from below the seats. Burned oil smoke started coming in thru the floor/gears. According to him it also started hacking, which I haven't been able to confirm.

Investigation:

We test drove the car with the middle seat removed so we could se the rear prop shaft. It was spinning correctly, but there was also a bolt that rotated in the same speed as the shaft (see image). It got stuck from time to time witch created some bad noises. We checked the oil and it was completely dry. When we refilled it, the bolt stopped moving but there is still a lot of noise when driving above 10-20 kmp/h (grinding and banging from the box). Something is definitely broken.

Question:

1. I haven't been able to find a nice schematic over the transfer box, so I dont know what the bolt is doing. I think I could guess that one of the gearwheels are connected to it in some way. It should definitely not rotate, maybe it has snapped inside?

2. What is the most likely thing to brake in the box first? I guess if the gears are broken it wouldn't drive at all (i haven't been able to check if both prop shafts are getting power).

3. How big of a project is it to open/check the box? I assume I have to remove it from the chassie and disconnect all the diff and gearboxes? Is it possible to open it from bellow to have a peak?

Also, i have to apologize for treating my car like this. I thought it was checked at the last service. sorry

post-11398-1245691621_thumb.jpg

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That nut secures the intermediate shaft which carries the transfer gear assembly, I believe your looking at a full strip down & replace all the bearings.

sounds like the nut has ripped away from it's locking plate & is now trying to rotate with the gear/shaft, which it should not do.

diagram below should help.

post-20-1245693211_thumb.jpg

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I think that's the main transfer gear shaft. If it's spinning, then it seems likely that the bearing roller cages (I think they are plastic), have melted and gripped the shaft. No oil will at least require new bearings and shims throughout. Take the sump plate off and see what's what.

Les.

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Perfect thanks.

How big of a project is it to do a overhaul of the box? Is it possible to do it without removing the whole block (including gears) from the car, or can I split it so that only the tranfer box gets lose?

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A slight hi-jack but still transfer box related:

I have a knackered transfer box (LT230) that I would like to rebuild as a spare. Ashcrofts can supply a kit (seals bearings etc) but I opened the case up and noticed a few of the gears are missing teeth. Is it possible to re-machine these gears or do I need new replacements?

ps related to the oringal post, when my transmission was run without oil a foul burnt smell came from it which turned out to be the plastic cages the needle roller bearing run in melting.

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A slight hi-jack but still transfer box related:

I have a knackered transfer box (LT230) that I would like to rebuild as a spare. Ashcrofts can supply a kit (seals bearings etc) but I opened the case up and noticed a few of the gears are missing teeth. Is it possible to re-machine these gears or do I need new replacements?

ps related to the oringal post, when my transmission was run without oil a foul burnt smell came from it which turned out to be the plastic cages the needle roller bearing run in melting.

replace is the quickest way to fix it, if the teeth are missing then there could be unseen cracks in others.

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Seems a bit drastic to replace it if just a tooth is busted - it doesn't mean that the whole box or even other teeth are no good. I've not seen a cracked tooth - they usually chip or break off. Strip the thing down and see what's what.

Les.

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Ok. So far so god. I removed the bottom plate and had a look at the planetgears. They looked, according to me, quite fine. No direct wear. There where some metal grains in the oil but not very much. I was aspecting something much worse. Anyway the middle gears connected to the intermediate shaft are moving around 1-2 centimeters sideways. The other two sets of gears seams stable and fine. My guess is as before that the shaft is broken i the middle. Se the linked video. Or whats your opinion before I start removing the rear prop shaft to check it properly.

video no. 1: http://www.norly.com/transfer.mov

I might ad that the gears are movable a bit by hand. I dont know if thats the way it should be but I can rotate them ruffly 2 cm back and forth. See video no 2

video no. 2: http://www.norly.com/transfer2.MOV

post-11398-1246010175_thumb.jpg

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Guest richardthegardener

My transfer box also siezed due to lack of oil. removal was easy, if heavy. I then found that the splines on the gearbox output shaft had stripped, might be worth having a look at before you start on the transfer box!

Richard

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  • 3 weeks later...

After removing the box and replacing it with another one everything works perfect. The problem was not the splines but the fact that the intermediate shaft had rotated. The gears was okay but it was heavy wear on the box and the shaftparts.

But it all turned out fine in the end.

thanks for all the help.

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