- Ideas about other sorts of anti-wrap setups

[FridgeFreezer]

Well more staring at the geometry of leaf springs and my bars has lead me to the conclusion that there will be a point past the spring eye (so the bar is longer than half the spring) where the vertical movement of the end of the bar will be minimal. The axle moves in a compound curve which puts the pivot point of the axle (and hence the anti-wrap bar's ideal mounting point) somewhere in front of the spring eye, if indeed it is a point and not an arc. I'm not sure what this translates to where the bar is mounted at the shackle end, other than significantly more fore/aft movement.

[bill van snorkle]

Getting back to an earlier post from Dirty Deisel. Why have flexible bushings at all on your current tramp bar ?

Bill.

[tony109]

This is how I did it. Definetly not rocket science, and most likely not the best solution, but IMHO it worked a treat! No more noticeable axle movement/tramp than a defender. And dirt cheap and simple to fabricate. Heim Joints at both ends, mounted center axle and center to the pivot point of the spring in the front. And to avoid binding the vertical distance from center axle to center of the joint on the axle, was the same as center from spring bush to center of frame joint.

Well it looks the part, but what does it fit to at the front.. How does your anti tramp bar allow the axel to move backwards?

It looks to me that it will work well while the springs are not compressed, but when you want the springs to flex, you'll be forcing the axel to rotate on its springs seats putting a great deal of tension on the 'anti wrap' bar and the mountings, which will effectivly stop the suspension from working beyond a curtain point, and will strain everything.

When the spring is compressed, the spring center bolts - to spring eye distances increases and decrease, aswell as the fact that the axel moves backwards in an arc around the spring shackles as the springs compress.. The only fixed point is the front spring hanger eyes. The axel can still move away from these when the springs flatten.

None of the anti wrap bars Ive seen on here allow for this movement and so will cause a bigger problem than the original axel tramp they were trying to cure.. Perhaps if you had a damped link between the top of the axel and the front or rear spring eye you could allow all the movement required and dampen the effect of axel tramp..

If you look at whats available for the Custom/Drag racing cars, where axel Tramp is a problem with leaf springs, you may find an off-the-shelf idea to buy or copy.

Because there are many variable changes in geometry with leaf sprung set up, making a fixed anti tramp bar will need careful thought.. Remember Simplicity is still the ultimate sophistication..!

[tony109]

This is how I did it. Definetly not rocket science, and most likely not the best solution, but IMHO it worked a treat! No more noticeable axle movement/tramp than a defender. And dirt cheap and simple to fabricate. Heim Joints at both ends, mounted center axle and center to the pivot point of the spring in the front. And to avoid binding the vertical distance from center axle to center of the joint on the axle, was the same as center from spring bush to center of frame joint.

From your picture.. when the axel drops It looks as though you anti wrap bar will fowl on the steering damper.. The range of movement you have will be very limited..

[Daan]

Well it looks the part, but what does it fit to at the front.. How does your anti tramp bar allow the axel to move backwards?

It looks to me that it will work well while the springs are not compressed, but when you want the springs to flex, you'll be forcing the axel to rotate on its springs seats putting a great deal of tension on the 'anti wrap' bar and the mountings, which will effectivly stop the suspension from working beyond a curtain point, and will strain everything.

When the spring is compressed, the spring center bolts - to spring eye distances increases and decrease, aswell as the fact that the axel moves backwards in an arc around the spring shackles as the springs compress.. The only fixed point is the front spring hanger eyes. The axel can still move away from these when the springs flatten.

None of the anti wrap bars Ive seen on here allow for this movement and so will cause a bigger problem than the original axel tramp they were trying to cure.. Perhaps if you had a damped link between the top of the axel and the front or rear spring eye you could allow all the movement required and dampen the effect of axel tramp..

If you look at whats available for the Custom/Drag racing cars, where axel Tramp is a problem with leaf springs, you may find an off-the-shelf idea to buy or copy.

Because there are many variable changes in geometry with leaf sprung set up, making a fixed anti tramp bar will need careful thought.. Remember Simplicity is still the ultimate sophistication..!

Sorens set up is exactly what it needs, the link moves the axle backward on bump due to the angle it has with the chassis. Whether it is the same amount is not clear, but you wont get it perfect, due to as you say, the leafspring being a flexible mount. But at the same time, because it is a flexible spring mount, it doesn't have to be perfect.

[tony109]

Sorens set up is exactly what it needs, the link moves the axle backward on bump due to the angle it has with the chassis. Whether it is the same amount is not clear, but you wont get it perfect, due to as you say, the leafspring being a flexible mount. But at the same time, because it is a flexible spring mount, it doesn't have to be perfect.

I haven't seen the whole picture of what he has done, but it appears that if the axel drops low enough his tramp bar will foul the steering damper...

remove the damper is the best solution to that.. The axel case backets will soon tear the axel casing if the less then perfect geometry has to rely on the flex between axel and springs.. Have any of you checked the axel seats on the spring are flat and wide enough? Its typical for slight movement to have made the edges round. Weld Slightly wider saddles to the axel giving more support on the spring.. You do want as close to perfect geometry as you can get, or if there has to be a compromise, support the axel on somthing more solid than the light wall of the Axel Casing.. Support the axel on the spring plates which are heavy enough to repeatedly take the strain.. The axel Casing isn't up to it.