northernchris Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 As it says what is the o/d of the drag and track bars? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 About 23mm I'd say. I sleeve mine with 3mm walled 30mm box and that slips over easily if the rod is straight, requires a little persuasion if there's a slight bend in the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
was a nice truck? Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Does this mean there may be some improved rod/rod strengtheners coming soon then chris???? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northernchris Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Does this mean there may be some improved rod/rod strengtheners coming soon then chris????Dave You never Know Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 You never Know Chris Have a look at the Sumo stuff there the only one's I haven't managed to bend. So if you start there you can't go far wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Have a look at the Sumo stuff there the only one's I haven't managed to bend. So if you start there you can't go far wrong. Chris - do a search on this forum - there has been quite some discussion about this. I think Tonk started a thread called Tube vs. Bar or 'Which is stronger tube or bar' or something like that, which ended up being about this stuff. In my honest opinion, the best mothod is to attach a bracket to the diff housing as Tonk has done. I had promised to do some calcs, but I never got around to it - I'll have another bash. Uprating the bar is groovy, and I've got sumo bars, but I think a combo of the two ideas would be killer. Cheers, Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
was a nice truck? Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I only enquired about the prospect of chris building some bars/tubes because i bent a sumo tr on last event and didnt feel the rock i must have hit. It was a lr catcher however which will have to be uprated to a better built bit of kit . Ideas anyone...................... Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I only enquired about the prospect of chris building some bars/tubes because i bent a sumo tr on last event and didnt feel the rock i must have hit. It was a lr catcher however which will have to be uprated to a better built bit of kit . Ideas anyone......................Dave Dave If you go any stronger you could well break a track rod end or even a steering box, a sumo bar you can readjust and carry on, a box breaking could put you out of an event. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Here we are: Might find this useful? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1078&hl=stronger Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 The best solution is 30mm od en24 solid bar D&T to take track rod ends, we've not managed to break anything yet, but we do run Gwagon pas boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 In my honest opinion, the best mothod is to attach a bracket to the diff housing as Tonk has done. I had promised to do some calcs, but I never got around to it - I'll have another bash. Uprating the bar is groovy, and I've got sumo bars, but I think a combo of the two ideas would be killer.Cheers, Al. My Sumo runs trough the QT diff guard as there designed to for to give extra strength, is yours not restrained then. Pete G is correct but I do carry spare ball joints and a stud remover. I have been lucky enough to not brake a steering box to leave it us-usable on a event. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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