motom Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 Hi, I just replaced my 1 tonne transmission for a standard one and am having problems selecting the forward gears while the engine is running (from a stand still). Revers is not a problem. If I turn the engine off or set the transfer box in neutral I can select gears as normal, and when I get the vehicle up to speed the gears change relatively easy, although not super smooth. I also replaced the clutch while I was at it and I adjusted the clutch pedal not too long ago. The pedal seems to engage where it should, not too close to the floor, so I don't think this is the problem. Anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this? I just spent two days replacing the transmission so I don't really fancy taking it out again. Are there any adjustments I could try? all help much appreciated, -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 Your clutch is dragging. Several reasons can cause this; air in hydraulics, mal adjusted master cylinder pushrod, incorrect pedal hight, tight spigot bearing, warped drive plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 If you can engage reverse gear (which does not use synchromesh) relatively easily then it sounds like a problem with the gearbox internals somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 If you can engage reverse gear (which does not use synchromesh) relatively easily then it sounds like a problem with the gearbox internals somewhere? Reverse doesn't have synchromesh though, so the sysmptom fits with a dragging clutch keeping the input shaft turning. Anders, with the engine running, the middle seat and cover up and the box out of gear, does pressing the clutch pedal make any difference to the noise the box makes? If it does not, then 100% dragging clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 I'd say clutch dragging too or perhaps the spigot bearing gripping the shaft and spinning it. What make of clutch did you use? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 hi guys, first, thanks for the replies I haven't had time to work on the car since I replaced the transmission, but I have had plenty of time to think about it I was wondering if the clutch was dragging too, so its good to read that is what you were thinking too... this was my first clutch replacement, but I think I put it back together correctly. I used a AP clutch from Paddocks and a new Britpart release bearing. I did replace the slave and master clutch cylinders recently but adjusted these to the old clutch so I will try to readjust the master cylinder for maximum throw as soon as I find time to work on it again. I will bleed the system too, just to be sure. I'll keep you updated -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 Well, I think I have adjusted the clutch properly and I have bled the system, but its still not working. I even tried removing the shim and rubber gasket on the slave cylinder to see if I got more movement om the clutch arm. If anyone can explain or have instructions on how to properly adjust a new clutch master cylinder I would really like to know if I have done this correctly. Also, if anyone knows if there are different release bearings, clutches ect that I could have gotten wrong that would cause this problem, feel free to chime in... I'm running out of ideas now so and fear I might have to take the transmission out again -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 btw, I mentioned I got it into reverse earlier with the clutch in, but feeling it now it doesn't seem to go as easliy as a properly working gearbox should. -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 I also changed the oil when I replaced the transmission with some GL4/GL5 compliant generic oil. Could using the wrong oil also cause the gears not to go into gear?? -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 After some more testing today I found that (with the axles removed) when I depress the clutch and put it in 1st gear (no problem with that when since the output shafts have no resistance) I am not able to stop the output shaft from moving unless I apply plenty of parking brake. I tried running it with the parking brake on for a short while to seat the clutch but it didn't help much. If I release the clutch the engine stalls as the clutch grabs 100%. I have bled the clutch several times and gone through tons of fluid and it feels reasonably normal but I guess its not enough or there is some other adjustment I have done wrong. So my question is this: How do you guys adjust the clutch master cylinder properly from scratch and is there any other adjustment in the system that I failed to locate? thanks for all the help so far! -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Take the top cover off the pedal box (6-screws). The master cylinder rod has locking nuts either side of the pivot point. You adjust the rod until it's a bit sloppy , to ensure that the master cylinder piston has no pressure on it when your foot is off the pedal. Just to add - don't tighten the nuts towards each other too much or you'll pinch the pivot point and it'll jam the pedal. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 Also make sure your pedal hight is correct, allow for any mats or carpets by measuring with them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Did you replace the clutch cover too, or just the clutch plate? I tried fitting a AP driveline cover onto a Borg and Beck plate - the plate was slight too thick for the cover and wouldn't release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 Well, since the last update I have removed the transmission again and found no problems with the spigot bearing (assuming this is the little brass bearing in the flywheel) and checked the main shaft for nicks. I also compared the movement of the release bearing on the old 1Ton transmission with the new one and found no differences. I'm beginning to think its either the clutch being the wrong part or it could be the clutch cylinders. I have adjusted the clutch pedal again and I think I did it the right way this time. Thanks for the description Les, I think that is how setup now. Phil, I don't have any carpet in right now, but I'll keep that in mind if I add some later. James - I have both AP clutch plate and cover, but I'm thinking this might be the only issue left. I have an expert coming by next week so maybe he will see the problem. I'm considering putting the old clutch back in as it didn't seem too worn, just old. I know this is not the best solution so maybe I should just buy another brand of clutch and try that. I'll let you all know how it goes. -anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motom Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 After waiting for parts I finally got around to replacing the clutch slave cylinder as I wasn't sure if it was working properly. Someone told me to bolt a plate in front of it to see if there was any sponginess/air in the system and with the new setup there definitely was none. I bolted it back on, but the gear box still would not go into gear. Since I didn't bother buying a new clutch, like I should have, I put the old one back in and sure enough, it worked. This could be because it is worn, but at least I know I'm not crazy now and I probably do know how to bleed a clutch I'll probably drive it like this for a while and see how the gear box works and maybe replace the clutch next year. I need to contact AP or Paddocks and see if I got the wrong parts. Hopefully that will explain my problems. Cheers, -Anders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Just a thought measure the outside diameter of the new drive plate, it should be 9.5". Check the pressure plate carefully as 9 1/4" pressure plates look the same as 9 1/2" but are different. [/img] 9 1/4" on the left and 9 1/2" on the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigj0nny Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Hi, I'm sorry I can't be of any assitance here, but I too am about to replace my gearbox (with a secondhand unit from e bay). I have a standard 2.6 / 6 Cylinder 109" safari. The Gearbox crunches into 2nd and a little in 3rd too. I have a few questions for the experts that I'd really appreciate your help with: 1. Does a box straight out of a series 3 2.25 / 4 cyl bolt straight in? 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigj0nny Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Hi, I'm sorry I can't be any help here, but the horror story above has scared me! I too need to change the gearbox on my standard 2.6 / 6 Cylinder 109" Series III. It pops out of 1st, crunches into 2nd always, and sometimes into 3rd too, (4th is fine though)so not a lot going for it! I'm planning on gambling on a used box from e bay, but I'd really appreciate some advice from the experts if you wouldn't mind? 1. Will a standard SIII 2.25 / 4 cylinder box bolt staright in? (I've got it in my mind they may have different bell housings, and if so what extra will I need to do?) 2. I was planning to replace a clutch kit at the same time for good measure while I'm there, but the above story has scared me. What clucth kit should I use, I cant find a clucth kit specifically listed for the 6 cylinder / 2.6, but should I assume its a standard series clutch? Any part numbers / sources would be appreciated. Many thanks in advance Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 2.6 uses the same clutch as a 4 pot and yes the gearbox has a different bell housing to a 4 pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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