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TD5 style Rev counter / Tachometer


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I’m looking for one to match the rest of the TD5 instruments - can't use an original TD5 rev counter tho’ as it’s a 300tdi engine so it will have to use the feed from the alternator ‘w’ terminal.

These two look like a match for the TD5 instruments but does anybody know the differences between these two rev counter / tachometers – I believe they both use the ‘w’ terminal, but what else is different, rev range?

AMR5724 – Tachometer V8

YAE100800 – Tachometer Tdi

Listed here:

Lrseries

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I have the AMR5724 [has Zero to 5000rpm on the face] running off my Alternator's W terminal for my 200Tdi, it looks just right with the Td5 speedo/fuel/temp gauges.

IMG_0239.jpg

since that photo was done, I've swapped to the Td5 warning light panel.

Td5 connects to the ECU so could be a different type of terminals on the rear.

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Western

Just wondering i wanted to fit a rev counter to my 1986 300TDI 90 am i correct in thinking as long as i have a W terminal on the back of the alternator this will work will it ???

Is there anything else you need to fit a rev counter or is it just simply connect it to the W terminal ??

Any help would be gratfully recieved

Many thanks Chris

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If you can put up with an orange needle the VDO non-LR rev counter is a lot cheaper than the parts above, I think i picked mine up for about £45.

Chris, yes, you just need a W terminal, and a way to adjust the rev counter to read the correct engine speed. I used idle and max revs to set mine up, intending to check it with a laser tacho, but have never got round to it.

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So i wonder, looking at the AMR5724 (Tachometer V8) you have western, what the difference is between it and YAE100800 (Tachometer Tdi).

I presume YAE100800 just has less rev range, intended to be used with the tdi engine? :unsure:

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So i wonder, looking at the AMR5724 (Tachometer V8) you have western, what the difference is between it and YAE100800 (Tachometer Tdi).

I presume YAE100800 just has less rev range, intended to be used with the tdi engine? :unsure:

YAE100800 is this one in photo below , same as mine looks like LR have superseded the older [mine] part number.

the Td5 version is YAE100790 & shows 0 to 6000rpm on the face here

post-20-1248718863_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 years later...

Guys and gals,

Old topic, sorry to dig it up again, but I want to put a LR tacho into my 1984 90 with 200Tdi engine. I've been googling and searching for days in order to get the right counter and come up with these numbers:

Petrol and Diesel: <1998 RRC5231 (0-5000RPM)

V8 LE (with W-contact): AMR5724 (0-6000RPM)

Tdi and V8 with W-contact (not Td5!) 1998-: YAE100800 (0-5000RPM)
Td5 (signal from PIN 19 ECU): YAE100790 (0-5000RPM with Td5 logo in the display)
So @western, seems like you have either the RRC5231 or YAE100800, as yours reads max 5000RPM.
And am I right that you can actually hook up any counter (except the Td5 ones) to the older diesels as long as there is a W-contact on both the counter and the alternator? You can get the calibration set up properly with the DIP-switches on the back, right?
Western, how are your DIPs set?
Hope you can help me out.
Sebastian
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Yes, mine had AMR5724 on the box label, if you don't have the 'W' terminal see the link in my 2nd post above.

my dip switches are set 1 & 3 up & 2 down, IIRC there is also a small screw to make fine adjustments on the gauge too.

you ned to read 750 to 800 rpm @ idle & a max prm of 4000.

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Thanks mate!

That's strange then however, that your box read AMR5724 whereas the counter only goes to 5000RPM, AMR5724 should go to 6000.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2815/AMR5724-TACHOMETER.html

I ordered a new YAE100800 for a very fair price. Has to come in from Poland and hope to receive the part in the next week, will post back on DIP settings and stuff. Of course settings also depend on what size alternator pulley the previous owner installed. Will measure and post that as well.

See the attached pics of the YAE100800

post-35442-0-98249000-1363309961_thumb.jpg

post-35442-0-87046600-1363309968_thumb.jpg

post-35442-0-26913100-1363309972_thumb.jpg

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maybe mine was in a wrong box, as it has the same face markings as yours.

my connections are

Alternator W terminal to rev counter terminal marked 2

12v ign controlled feed White wire to rev counter terminal marked + [positive]

earth wire to rev counter terminal marked - [negative]

the illumination can be directly connected to the existing gauges illumination wires red/white trace + feed [if you have td5 gauges then this is a red/orange trace wire] & black - neg earth.

hth

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OK, so I got the part today and it indeed was just as pictured. Couldn't wait to do the installation, so got right on with it. Installation was simple, just needed to connect some extra wires for +/-, illumination and W-contact. Then moved the fuel level gauge over to the empty slot on the right side of the instrument cluster and put the new revcounter in.

Now about adjusting the counter to show the right no of revs (do this prior to installation!)

In the picture below you can see a small black hole in the thread where the large white nut goes over.

In that hole there is a small plastic screw that you can turn approx 90 degrees (don't turn further, for you might break it). Turn it counter clockwise and the needle will go down, turn it clockwise and the needle will go up (so show less or more revs). Then it's a matter of finding the right DIP-switch combination. Just make an excel sheet with all the possible combinations and try them one by one leaving the engine running. Some combi's show 3000 idling or 2000 idling or 500 idling.

In my 200Tdi (Defender) with a Marelli A127 45Amp alternator (haven't been able to measure the pulley size yet, can't get close enough) I chose the combination of switch 1, 2 and 3 down (off). This read approx 900revs/min when idling and about 4200/min when flat out. I did some finetuning with the little screw and hey it's showing a nice 750-800 idling and 3900-4000 tops.

Will add some more pics of the installation finished later.

Hope this helps anyone.

post-35442-0-73544900-1363877971_thumb.jpg

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I tried that one, but it read 1600rpm idling, just took the one that was closest to 800 and started to play with the screw.

Must have something to do with the pulleysize. Smaller pulley gives more rotations of the alternator and so more RPM on your tacho. Need to change my alternator soon (probably broken regulator), so will measure the pulley then and post back.

Pics attached show idling engine (warm). Sorry for the haziness, my smartphone's cam is not the best.

Thanks for your help Western!

post-35442-0-46980300-1363888706_thumb.jpg

post-35442-0-34023100-1363888781_thumb.jpg

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O, one more thing: I got the tachometer from www.lr.pl , a LandRover garage in Poland with an online shop. If I tell you what this (original LR and NEW!!!) part cost, you'll laugh till you drop: 87 EUR. Added to that were 36EUR shipping (DPD, trackable) and voila a rev counter costing less than half the usual price.

Payment was per SEPA bank transfer (free between countries that are in the SEPA group).

I emailed them for information and pics and one guy (Szymon) replied quickly all the time in proper English. All I can say is that their service was great.

They also have the AMR5724 on stock http://lr.pl/sklep/obrotomierz-defender-p-23320295.html

Don't know about shipping costs to the UK though, I live in NL.


Seb

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You could probably calibrate it very cheaply using an optical tacho off of ebay .... they are about 10 GBP IIRC then you will know exactly if you want to :)

EDIT: Something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181011970004

Thanks! But how does that work? -sorry, newby (and usually I repair humans, not cars ;) )-

Where do I take measurements? Can I point the laser on the viscous fan?

Seb

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