TheRecklessEngineer Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 I did a search, yet I find it hard to believe no one has thought of this before... I'm running a series clutch on the back of a V8 via a series adapter plate. If you can fit a 200TDi to a series gearbox with no mods, then surely a 200TDi LT77 'box will mate to a V8 via a series adapter plate, using a series clutch etc... Why? Because I'm thinking that the defender 200TDi/TD 'box has a short bell housing so would fit into an 88"...maybe. Is this a sensible plan for one rainy day in the future when I get fed up with the series box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 The logic is correct, and it has probably been thought through / done before. The LT77/LT230 combination is a good few inches longer than the Series gearbox and is a bit of a squeeze in 88" chassis - I have seen it done in a Lightweight with a Perkins Phaser turbo diesel and a custom bellhousing/input shaft. There is also the issue of the front propshaft and the flywheel housing crossmember wanting to occupy the same space. IIRC, the Rover SD1 ran a short bellhousing LT77 on the V8 models. This combination would save hunting for a V8/Series adaptor and would run a standard set of clutch components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Thanks for the reply Dave. Excellent idea with the SD1 - I'll keep an eye out. You wouldn't happen to know what the V8 MG boys use? I seem to remember they were LT77s. If the gearbox does end up a few inches further back, obviously a shortened rear prop would be necessary. How about running a spacer on the front output flange to move the prop forwards and miss the crossmember? edit: seems I posted before the piccies arrived. That's a fantastic piece of engineering. What is the bellhousing made from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 What is the bellhousing made from? I believe it is cut down from a V8 LT77 with a piece of alloy plate welded in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Defender 4cyl LT77 with a 4cyl defedner clutch will bolt straight up to your V8 via the conversion kit you already have. You cant runa series clutch as the spline son the input shaft of the gearbox are different. I used ti run exactly this setup before I swapped the V8 for a 200tdi in my swb series. 4cyl LT77 and Lt230 is doable in a swb, as its what i'm running, but it does require some messing with propshafts and crossmembers. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoggyN Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 I've got an RV8 mated to a LT77 in my Triumph. I'll can take some measurements if you are still interested. IIRC the flywheel and clutch on the SD1 and TR8 are smaller and lighter than on a Land Rover. It might not matter if you're putting it in something light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 4cyl LT77 and Lt230 is doable in a swb, as its what i'm running, but it does require some messing with propshafts and crossmembers. Thanks Jon. Thats good news, I'm not afraid of a bit of messing. I've got an RV8 mated to a LT77 in my Triumph. I'll can take some measurements if you are still interested. IIRC the flywheel and clutch on the SD1 and TR8 are smaller and lighter than on a Land Rover. It might not matter if you're putting it in something light. Yes please if you wouldn't mind. I'd be interested to know how big the bellhousing is. I've had an SD1 flywheel and clutch in a 109 before - was no problem at all....but then it was a 'slightly' pokey eBay special v8 of unknown origin that turned out to be some tuned monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoggyN Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks Jon. Thats good news, I'm not afraid of a bit of messing.Yes please if you wouldn't mind. I'd be interested to know how big the bellhousing is. I've had an SD1 flywheel and clutch in a 109 before - was no problem at all....but then it was a 'slightly' pokey eBay special v8 of unknown origin that turned out to be some tuned monster. Sorry about the delay, had to go Up North for a wedding. Anyway, I've had a grovel and the belhousing is 7 1/4" from front to back outside faces (dimensions read from a tape measure held at arms length under the car so might be out by a 1/16" or so). I hope that helps. If you need any more info just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks very much. That sounds ideal. I'll have to keep an eye out for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattMatt Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 If the gearbox does end up a few inches further back, obviously a shortened rear prop would be necessary. How about running a spacer on the front output flange to move the prop forwards and miss the crossmember? I run a defender LT77 in my series (with a 200TDi). The rear prop was made up by a company in Wolverhampton is very short and so it does give a few problems - the angle of the UJs means they wear out quicker and the whole thing vibrates if not under load. The front prop was also made up at the same time. I had to "sculp" a notch in the cross member to get it through but it works very well I post some pics if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Matt, I already have a 200Tdi in my 109 and will be fitting later axles. I also have a rebuilt Defender LT77 and LT230 in the garage, and have been considering fitting those to the 109 to match the 3.54 diffs and give a few other advantages. Would you mind posting some pictures of how you modified the cross members and the cab floor/tunnel cover so that I can get an idea of what's involved, please? Oh, and what do you do about the speedo? Does the Series drive cable fit the LT230, or the defender drive cable fit the Series speedo, and did you need to recallibrate it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I used the defender tunnel complete having cut the series tunnel off the bulkhead and then made up floor pans to suit. You have to scallop the **** out the crossmember. Mine is a discovery one as the origional series one was rotten. IIRC I move it back an inch or so aswell for better clearance. Series speedo cable fits the LT230 you just have to cut the screw plat off of it cos the LT230 uses a clip to retain it. Recalibration will depend on diff ratio, tyre size, LT230 ratio, and speedo drive pinion ratio. Too many variables..... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Sounds interesting, and I'd love to see pictures of yours too. I also got a Defender's removable cross-member, so could theoretically cut away the SIII bell housing and gear box cross members, fit the LT230 with its standard mounts as a cross member in itself, and fit the Defender circular section cross member with tubular bolt hole sleeves to the main rails. I think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattMatt Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Would you mind posting some pictures of how you modified the cross members and the cab floor/tunnel cover so that I can get an idea of what's involved, please? Too dark now - I'll get underneath it tomorrw and post some pics I am very lucky in having a Designa Chassis so the holes for the defender gbox mounts were already there. You'll see it from the pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattMatt Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Ok - if I can get these pics to load you should have some idea Bear in mind I have an 88 chassis made up to accomodate coil springs and RRC axles/diffs. I love this chassis as it has all the holes and brackets drilling so the builder can do/fit whatever he wants. I f you look at the gearbox mount you will see the bracket to hold the removeable xbar for the series g/box. You can also see how steep the propshalt is angled. I am toying with dropping the gearbox mount down a fraction so the rear of the gearbox will be slightly lower, or shorten the tie bars, or relocate the axle brackets, or.......you get the drift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlue88 Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 In the second pic....isnt that the oil filter i see sat very close to the prop?? How much clearance have you got? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattMatt Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 In the second pic....isnt that the oil filter i see sat very close to the prop?? How much clearance have you got? It does look close doesn't it but the picture is very deceiveing. In actually fact there is a good 6-8 inches. I haven't hit it yet!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 Thanks, Matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted August 8, 2009 Share Posted August 8, 2009 I chopped about the disco one and welded it in. I didnt see any benefit in having a boltable crossmember. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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