TheBeastie Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Have ordered new glass for back door and just spent two hours getting all the silicone and glass splinters off the door frame before giving it a going over with Kurust and paint before installing the new glass. Can anyone suggest a better way of fixing the glass that doesn't stick as soundly as silicone?? Also anything I can do to make the back door close more easily? I have fitted one of the wheel carrier things to take the weight off the door but it still seems to need quite a thud to close it. Just want to try and avoid having to replace the glass too often. Any thoughts or ideas would be really appreciated Thanks Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Use the correct glazing sealant which remains flexible & doesn't set, you should be able to get some from a windscreen fitting place or the stuff LR used is 78195 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 Thanks Ralph. I will get some and hopefully it will arrive at same time as glass. Anything better than picking it all off (and then getting the bots of glass out of your fingers ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hurrumph. Now feeling useless. I have got the glazing strip from LR Series as ssuggested and imagined that the glass would sort of slot inside so that the side edges and outer edge of the glass would be protected. On this basis I got 3m of the strip thinking I would have some spare. Looking at it now having tried to put the glass in I feel it needs one strip on the side of the door rebate and then another strip between the glass and the aluminium holders. Is this correct? If so is it OK for the glass to sit directly in contact with the metal door, particularly at the bottom edge? I would have thought vibration would be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisoleary Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hurrumph. Now feeling useless. I have got the glazing strip from LR Series as ssuggested and imagined that the glass would sort of slot inside so that the side edges and outer edge of the glass would be protected. On this basis I got 3m of the strip thinking I would have some spare. Looking at it now having tried to put the glass in I feel it needs one strip on the side of the door rebate and then another strip between the glass and the aluminium holders. Is this correct? If so is it OK for the glass to sit directly in contact with the metal door, particularly at the bottom edge? I would have thought vibration would be a problem. Sorry, not much help here mate but I've also got a rear window to put into a new door. My son removed the glass when i was at work the other day and I never seen what came out with it, it just looked like silicone. Is there a rubber strip in there also? And what is the foil strip for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Sorry, not much help here mate but I've also got a rear window to put into a new door. My son removed the glass when i was at work the other day and I never seen what came out with it, it just looked like silicone. Is there a rubber strip in there also? And what is the foil strip for? Mine was silicone. Any remnant of original installation was long gone. I got the strip with the intention of saving two or three hours next time (the optimist in me says there will be no next time; the realist says who are you kidding ) removing silicone with shards of finger piercing glass in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Hurrumph. Now feeling useless. I have got the glazing strip from LR Series as ssuggested and imagined that the glass would sort of slot inside so that the side edges and outer edge of the glass would be protected. On this basis I got 3m of the strip thinking I would have some spare. Looking at it now having tried to put the glass in I feel it needs one strip on the side of the door rebate and then another strip between the glass and the aluminium holders. Is this correct? If so is it OK for the glass to sit directly in contact with the metal door, particularly at the bottom edge? I would have thought vibration would be a problem. Nope, lay a strip in the door recess where the glass sits, then fit the glass & the ally strips with some tape on then fit to the door & touch/retain the glass in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 OK. Thanks. Now beginning to make some sense. Any old tape, like insulating tape folded over to give sticky both sides?? Also fit strip up sides? The presumably a small bead of silicone to weatherproof?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 is that strip [the number i gave you] not sticky then ? it should be a rubber putty like stuff, thats what i had to to refit my rear window, maybe I was gven some other stuff, try your local windscreen place for some putty type sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 No it is neither sticky nor like a putty. Like a rubber inner tube material, 12.5mm wide and about 0.75mm thick (put micrometer on it). Hence my questions. It looks as if it would be good at absorbing vibration but definately not adhesive in any way shape or form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 it's not the stuff I had then, but is correct for the rear door glass as specified in the parts book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 OK Thanks western I will lay a strip on the bottom of the door recess; then put insulating tape folded round all four edges of the glass and see if the strip will "fold over a bit to give edge protection too. If that looks as if it might work then I will try the same up the sides and across the top too. I will aim to finish off with a bead of silicone but hopefully this will not be as painful to remove as last time when the glass was bedded into the silicone. Thanks for all the help. Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GL88 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Silicon sealant may be a PITA to remove but the standard strip seal allows rain to run into the door and rust the steel frame which then cracks under the weight of the spare. Ask me how I know. A hard plastic scraper will remove old seal and save fingers. I would use silicon again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 I have put a couple of rear door windows in and used this stuff of both occasions, it remains stickyish enough to be applied to door, then the glass fits in against it, and the ally angles screw in against both. A sharp scraper can be used to remove excess. I would never use silicone after a disasterous use when putting in a side window for someone who insisted that sillycone be used, I ended up fitting it again with RTV sealant. Be careful not to linger on the Car Builder Solutions website for too long there are shiny things that attract your beer tokens ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 this stuff Nic has linked too, is similar to the sealant I used Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 You can get that Butyl strip stuff from aquatics stores too, comes in a 2" wide strip rather than 8mm (which you can cut down), about £1.49 a metre, at least it is where I work anyway. It's used for joining pond liners, among other things. We call it 'Butyl Joining Tape'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 OK and thanks Glass now fitted. I applied the inner tube stuff using black insulating tape to wrap it around the sides of the glass and to provide some additional protection. Then fitted in and held in place with the bits of aluminium strip and new self tapping screws. I now plan to put a small silicone bead around the outer junction between the glas and door frame to seal the weather out. I think I now also understand what happened when it shattered since the new piece of glass is dead straight whereas the door frame clearly is not. 19 years of slamming the door with the spare wheel on it has created a slight inward bow in the door (remarkable actually it isn't more pronounced). I suspect this created a tension in the glass and the final door closing was the last straw, as it were, and it shattered. If the new glass goes the same way then it looks like a new door but I will also investigate a roof rack and having the wheel up there but god only knows how you get it up and down without enlisting the aid of Superman!!! Time will tell Thanks to everyone for all the helpful answers and pointers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 I suspect you may need more than a small bead of silicone, water has a nasty habit of finding it's way in over time. I was told the rubber tape stuff only went between the glass and the aluminium strips. I put a thick bead of Sikaflex on the frame, squeezed the glass on then put the tape and ali strips on. Sikaflex is used to bond windows on boats so I reckon it will work on a Defender but you have to get the excess of quick as once it sets that it! Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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