TheBeastie Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Well it is rare for me to stop and really look before I dive into a job but this time I did - and have a couple of questions. First of all how do I safely lock the propshaft to remove the propshaft bolts? I have jacked up one wheel to get better access, have put it on an axle stand and have chocked the rear wheels both sides front and back. If I put it in gear am I not in risk moving the vehicle? (sorry if this is daft but do not fancy it coming down on me when I am under it!) Second, removing the connection to the front diff looks OK since the bolts go through front ways so replacing with new bolts will be OK; but where it connects to the gear box the bolts will have to be put in from the back according to how it is currently on. Does this entail removing the flange or do the old bolts wriggle out, and the new ones wriggle in OK? As I say sorry if they are simple questions. I am just aware once it is off I have to be able to get it back on again safely! Thanks for any pointers Best wishes Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crwoody Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 If you're on level ground with wheels chocked and one wheel lifted with an axle stand under the axle on that corner, I guess that about as safe as you can get it without access to a proper 4 post lift. It's always handy to have an assistant in the car at this stage to pull the handbrake on after you've rotated the prop to get best access to the nuts, (or climb in and do it yourself?) Centre diff lock on if you're doing the front prop. As for the bolts on the gearbox flange, I believe the flange has to come off, then you risk leaking EP90 while you change the bolts. I don't know any other way around this - maybe someone else knows better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 As for the bolts on the gearbox flange, I believe the flange has to come off, then you risk leaking EP90 while you change the bolts.I don't know any other way around this - maybe someone else knows better? No other way but remove the flange - good luck getting the nut off (many posts on this recently, IIRC). The bolts should go in from the prop end, and someone has decided not to do this in the past (there is no good reason to put them in head to gearbox). As for oil: "the transfer box needed an oil change anyway, didn't it? " or "don't you just love the smell of onions on a Sunday morning?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 OK. Thanks guys. Now got propshaft locked using the diff lock so that is OK. Can get the front off using DIFFLOCK propshaft socket tool and then using a 14mm open ended spanner which is close enough to hold the nut to undo the bolt, but is clearly not quite the right size. I have tried, however, to get the back bolts slackened and the angle of the propshaft and UJ prevents me from getting the propshaft socket tool onto the nut. Do I need to use a pair of spanners to get these ones slackened? If so what is correct size - I seem to recall it is some imperial piece of nonsense. Have tightened front bolts up again whilst I am waiting. If I need imperial spanners it may have to wait for the internet to supply them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewy1984 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 9/16 is a better fit than 14mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 I seem to recall it is some imperial piece of nonsense. White inserts in nyloc nuts = imperial (probably UNF in this case) Blue inserts = metric Spanner size conversion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Yes, 9/16 would make sense since that equates to about 14.3mm according to the link chart. So better try Halfords since I am 99% sure I have no imperial spanners but better just do a quick rummage. Pain in that I will need two of them and pretty sure I will never use them again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Pain in that I will need two of them and pretty sure I will never use them again! You'd be amazed what is still Whitworth, UNF, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakes Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 All the transfer boxes I have seen have the bolt fitted with the head to the gearbox end ie you need to remove the flange to change, this includes 2 new 90s and a new RRC and several secondhand motors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 All the transfer boxes I have seen have the bolt fitted with the head to the gearbox end Hmm, that makes the instruction to drop the propshaft for towing / testing so easy to implement, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Well that job won't be getting done this weekend! Just back from Halfords and they do not sell the A/F spanners individually. Had two sets though - one rather nice ratchet set but very expensive and one rather cheap and nasty looking set which I didn't fancy having been burnt by cheap spanners in the past. Looks like an Internet supply job! Incidentally if I did try to remove the big flange nut to replace bolts by the transfer box, how do I go about it? Edit: Also am I probably better getting two individual 9/16 combination spanners or one individual and a full set? I just am not sure where I might come across imperial again on The Beastie?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Well that job won't be getting done this weekend! Just back from Halfords and they do not sell the A/F spanners individually. Had two sets though - one rather nice ratchet set but very expensive and one rather cheap and nasty looking set which I didn't fancy having been burnt by cheap spanners in the past. Looks like an Internet supply job!Incidentally if I did try to remove the big flange nut to replace bolts by the transfer box, how do I go about it? Edit: Also am I probably better getting two individual 9/16 combination spanners or one individual and a full set? I just am not sure where I might come across imperial again on The Beastie?? Can't do you quantities off top of my head, but check out the following list of part numbers. I think I've come across most of these doing up my 1988 90! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Well that job won't be getting done this weekend! Just back from Halfords and they do not sell the A/F spanners individually. Had two sets though - one rather nice ratchet set but very expensive and one rather cheap and nasty looking set which I didn't fancy having been burnt by cheap spanners in the past. Looks like an Internet supply job!Incidentally if I did try to remove the big flange nut to replace bolts by the transfer box, how do I go about it? Edit: Also am I probably better getting two individual 9/16 combination spanners or one individual and a full set? I just am not sure where I might come across imperial again on The Beastie?? It's on jobs like this that you suddenly realise that Granddad's old toolbox tucked away at the back of the shed is suddenly worth its weight in gold! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doda456 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Have you not considered the good ole ebay? Im sure if you look you will find a pair of 9/16 spanners fairly cheaply, or if you really want to spend some of your hard earned cash, there is the difflock prop removal tool, its supposed to be good, but I havent tried one myself Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinspragg Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 I think I used a large screw driver inserted into the UJ to lock the shaft and after I had loosened the 14mm (9/16th) nylock I used a 1/4" drive socket on an extension to run the nut off. It worked pretty well and took next to no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Sorry - Posted too soon - already covered above - I should read more carefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Well that job won't be getting done this weekend! Just back from Halfords and they do not sell the A/F spanners individually. Had two sets though - one rather nice ratchet set but very expensive and one rather cheap and nasty looking set which I didn't fancy having been burnt by cheap spanners in the past. Looks like an Internet supply job! Try a car boot sale. That is where I have got all of my odd spanners from. Do they still run the Greenside Car boot sale in the multi storey? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love2learn Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 jesus i just pushed some wooden wedges under the wheels and took it off, and im by no means a dab hand far from it !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 jesus i just pushed some wooden wedges under the wheels and took it off, and im by no means a dab hand far from it !! Some clearly have talent. Others, like me, do not!! Count yourself luck; but one day I will get there Malcy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 If the nuts at the transfer box end are worn but the bolts are ok why not just replace the nuts?? you will need 2 9/16 spanners don't use the rachet type there to big to fit onto nuts round by the UJ's. you want the a slim ring type. Jack one side up at front & put hi and low into nutral as well as gearbox, chock rear wheel / wheels & remove h/brake. If you want bolts take an olf one to bolt specialist & they will match or get from landrover / Ebay. You'll be done in no time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 I have tried, however, to get the back bolts slackened and the angle of the propshaft and UJ prevents me from getting the propshaft socket tool onto the nut. You may find that you won't be able to get them all out from underneath - try attacking some from above (the prop drops, so there's more room if you stick the ratchet on top). Get an assistant to hold the other end of the prop up if possible, when trying from underneath. It takes a bit of jiggling, but it's easy enough. Always a good idea to replace the nuts each time anyway, they're cheap and (so I'm told) re-using unknown-age nylocs isn't the best idea... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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