casper Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 hello folks right basically i have got a new centre pod with 8 switchs, winch cut off, radio, cb, and 3 gauges what i would like to do is run one wire from my second battery up to a fuse box of some sort then run all the wire out of fuse box to everything i need like switchs etc. problem i have is i cant seem to find anything that i can run my one main wire into. cause i dont want wires runnin up and down the truck cause other wise there will be like 6 million wires lol. so wanted somesort of fuse box or somthing so i can run one main wire then my other wise off of it safely and all fused. does anyone have any idea? thanks alot casper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 12 or 16 way fuseboxes here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 may sound bit stupid but would this let me run one main postive cable like positive battery cable to the fuse box then all my other wires for switchs etc off the fuse box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 without seeing the fuseboxes first hand I can't comment, an e.mail to VWP should get you the info or find your nearest auto electrcal suppliers in the phone book & visit them to see what they can supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 I can vouch the the '12 way fuse block' that VWP sell, very good quality. Ref 5026B on their site. Expensive though, and may be a bit overkill for your application. Here it is in my truck: For what it's worth, when I put a Mudstuff centre console in, I intend to run a dedicated feed to power all my switches. For this I will take a fused spur off my battery to a bus-bar like this: That will give me a dedicated supply for the switches, and much easier than running a seperate fused supply for each switch, which there is no point doing. All it will be powering is the resultant relays, so the current draw will be minimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 thanks alot for that mate wont just be switchs my 6 work lights will go though it as well u see. just doin somthing like that saves loads of wires running everywhere. so all i will have is my fusebok with all my lights switchs and cb etc wired into it 30 quid aint to bad to be honest at least i hopefully se fire to me truck with meltin wires lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 nice one Retro, I could do with a distribution unit like the upper photo, just to find up my battery box 'snake pit' of wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Not counting the fuses - mine were in the relays themselves or inline, you'll need relays for the spots so go for fused ones - I got a simple earthing block from B&Q (like this, but about 10 terminals) for a couple of quid, and stuck it in a simple plastic box from Maplin. One wire in, 4 fused relays later and job done. Yes, it looks carp - depends if you care about that. I didn't. As is pretty obvious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 I'd vote for the 12-way box from VWP, it has one connection for +ve and one for -ve, both of which come out to 12 individual terminals, the positive side being fused. Makes for nice easy & neat connections. When you do it, you need to make sure the feed to it is of chunky enough wire to handle the max current plus a bit (EG if you turn everything on at once) and also either put a maxi-fuse near the battery for the feed, or just make very sure the feed cable is well protected with sleeving & grommets all the way - a battery cutoff switch might not be a bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Mine is 16mm² cable with a 100-amp maxi-fuse right near the battery. The fusebox is rated for 100 amps so I figured that was a good bet. Each circuit is rated for 30 amps. It's worth noting that there are actually two positive inputs and one negative. This is so you can have two banks of six circuits from seperate feeds if need be, with a common earth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CURLY Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I can vouch the the '12 way fuse block' that VWP sell, very good quality. Ref 5026B on their site. Expensive though, and may be a bit overkill for your application. Here it is in my truck: For what it's worth, when I put a Mudstuff centre console in, I intend to run a dedicated feed to power all my switches. For this I will take a fused spur off my battery to a bus-bar like this: That will give me a dedicated supply for the switches, and much easier than running a seperate fused supply for each switch, which there is no point doing. All it will be powering is the resultant relays, so the current draw will be minimal. would you need to use relays with this junction box? for spot lights, big air horn, fag lighters etc? CURLY P.S i use a juction box like: PJ1 on the VWP website. just 2 bolts joined together by a bar in a box. one fat wire in, and loads of smaller ones out using hoop crimp connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 would you need to use relays ... for spot lights One 100W spot light will pull about 9 amps, and most automotive switches tend to be rated at 10 or 15 amps. If you try to switch a big load with a little switch too often you can end up welding the switch closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CURLY Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 One 100W spot light will pull about 9 amps, and most automotive switches tend to be rated at 10 or 15 amps. If you try to switch a big load with a little switch too often you can end up welding the switch closed oooo nice! so the wires from the fuse box in the pics above will go to the relay 'feed', and a seperate powered switch wire to the relay 'switch' then yes? just planning what to do before i spend a fortune on un needed wiring.. sorry to hijack the thread by the way.. CURLY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 so the wires from the fuse box in the pics above will go to the relay 'feed', and a seperate powered switch wire to the relay 'switch' then yes? Yep, on a standard relay 30 is the 12V line from the fuse, 85 is earth, 86 is the feed from the switch and 87 goes to the load. A 30 A relay will easily handle 25Ax12V= 300W, 360W at most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben_J85JTY Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Devon 4x4 do a 6 or 12 way fuse box with single feed in. The 6 way is Here Priced at under £15 for ease of use it is definatly worth considering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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