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Td5 alternator, diy rebuild?


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Hi All,

Due to the fact that I've had a completly flat battery (which charges up ok with a charger) I think my alternator is not to well although the ign light doesn't stay on.??

I connected a multi meter across the battery and it read 12.52v, turn on fans, lights, radio etc and it dropped to 11.32? even when reving the engine a bit...

Sooo..... I rebuilt the alternator on my old trusty Tdi 200 are the Td5 ones also rebuildable diy ish....?

Or is there anything else to test before I pull it off....?

If not what's the best replacement for a standard set up...?

Speedo has packed up too, could there be a connection....?

Many thanks

Dave.....

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Yer thats defo not charging, although i'd look at ensuring there is no breaks in the exciter wire before taking it off...

As for rebuilding it, personally i've tried it before (on an A127) and it was a complete waste of money. In my case the insulation on the stator had worn away, and shorted out, so when it put it all together and tried to reconnect the battery i was getting silly large sparks due to the short. Clearly i didnt know the stator was gone, but i worked it out after taking it apart to see why it wasnt working, and being able to get continuity between all 6 legs.

Ended up throwing it in the bin and getting a new alternator for £50 after having wasted the money and time messing around with the rebuild kit.

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Probably be better off with a new alternator, at least it'll have a 12month warranty.

as for the speedo check it has power, it needs a 10amp 12v feed ignition controlled & a 5amp 12v feed permanent live to store the speedo/trip readings, also check the transducer at the LH side of transfer box forintact & correct connections.

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My speedo packed up recently, the transducer failed. Ordered a Britpart one and hey presto, my Defender did 0-60 in 7 secs and topped over 140mph!!!!!!!!!!! Magnet must have had too many poles!

Pulled old transducer apart and found magnet had split and spring and ball bearing popped out, repaired it as a temp measure and it worked fine.

Fair play to Brit-Car, they sent me a genuine one at no extra cost (didn't insist on duff ****epart one back either) despite me having ordered the cheapo one originally. Had some good service off them recently.

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before you buy a new alternator (i had a similar experience) make sure the live feed from the ECU isn't shorting on the bulk head. I learn't this the hard way after buying a new alternator. If not I have a working alternator you could buy cheap.

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before you buy a new alternator (i had a similar experience) make sure the live feed from the ECU isn't shorting on the bulk head. I learn't this the hard way after buying a new alternator. If not I have a working alternator you could buy cheap.

Thanks for you reply, I have a niggling feeling it's not the alternator, not sure why just that the ign light does go out and I had a garage install a second hand startermotor recently...

Where abouts is the feed run through or near the bulkhead...?

Cheers

Dave

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before you buy a new alternator (i had a similar experience) make sure the live feed from the ECU isn't shorting on the bulk head. I learn't this the hard way after buying a new alternator. If not I have a working alternator you could buy cheap.

Spot on C18RCH, broken wire, I also have a good alternator for sale too.......!!!! cheers Dave..

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