Astro_Al Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 This thread contains the accumulated info I have on the Toy 30 spline conversion for Rover axles. I was going down this route to upgrade my stuff when a set of Mog 404s came along and suited my needs better. Therefore, I have not run the setup personally. However, I think it is a great route to take if you need stronger axles in your Rover. Since no-one ever talks about it in the UK (has anyone at all done it here???), and I got some queries about it when I brought it up, I thought this might be some useful input for people looking to upgrade their axles. This is applicable to Defender and Range Rover axles, and could be applied to Series axles (which I had started to do) with a little thought/handiwork. The basics - what you get: 1. Toyota hypoid differentials, 30 spline, choice of lockers. These are stronger than Rover spiral-bevel geared diffs (spreading the force over more gear teeth). They are available in a range of ratios (more available aftermarket) and with a range of lockers - limited slip / ARB / etc, if on a budget the one to go for is the factory "e-locker" (electrically actuated). The price of a complete brand new hypoid diff set up ready to run with an e-locker installed (in 4.10 ratio) is roughly the same as a bare ARB locker for a rover diff in the UK, but of course you also kiss goodbye to the Rover ring and pinion B) . The best source I found is Jim Christiansen at www.inchwormgear.com . Very helpful guy and the best prices. Other ratios and lockers increase the price, but it is still very competitive. When choosing diffs, you can use the high-pinion rear (gaining clearance), but the front must be regular (if I remember correctly) since you want to avoid running on the back-side of the gears (reverse rotation) when travelling forwards (for maximum strength). 2. Custom shafts. You need 30 spline shafts to fit the diffs etc. If I was doing this, I'd insist on good spec material - 300m or similar - which you may find rules out some suppliers. Don't part with good money for badly specced aftermarket shafts. Certainly Maxidrive do shafts, and others. It may be possible to upgrade in stages - throw in the Toy diffs, Longfields (see below) and run standard Toy shafts in the meantime (check all lengths, of course). As I understand it, the standard Toy shafts can be considered an upgrade from Rover shaft stuff (but so can a drinking straw...). But in the end, you'd probably want to get some decent shafts to complete the setup. 3. Longfield CVs. See here: http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/ . I think that says most of it. These are well-tested aftermarket CVs. 30 spline for the Toyota boys. I'll leave the strength guesstimation to others who are running them (see the threads - and Outerlimits too), suffice to say they are a very good upgrade. Work involved: 1. The Toyota diffs fit into the Rover housings with a little work. The main part of which is welding up the stud holes and drilling new ones to suit the Toy diff casing bolt pattern. A cut-out must be made in the casing mating flange for the e-locker to fit (if you go this route) - see links for all required info. 2. Depending on the application, there will be a bronze bushing to make up, just a simple ring for each axle swivel. See the threads for more info. 3. The shafts are custom length, so slot straight in, CVs follow, the final thing is to get some drive flanges. You can either have Rover ones re-splined or use custom ones, or maybe change the bolt pattern on a regular Toyota drive flange (I think you have to turn down the outside diameter just a tad too - see the threads for info). Some people take the opportunity to 'sewer cap' the diff pan on the Rover housing - that is cut out the old (thin) pan and weld in a bulletproof industrial pipe cap (I think you need 8" diameter - thickness is down to choice, they're all pretty beefy). See the threads for more on this. (Optional). That's it - nothing too serious to do. Bang per buck it has to be the best Rover axle upgrade out there (and, dare I say, strongest possible?). Here are the links: There is a lot more out there, I deleted quite a bit of info when I went for the Mogs. There are some good threads on Outerlimits too, you'll need to do your own searching. Pirate is now non-searchable for non-paying members, so I enclose some links from that forum to save hassle. From Pirate: 1. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73972 2. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66084 3. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255297 4. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228292 5. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259024 6. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297310 7. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=330274 8. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357137 These threads are the pick of the bunch (I think): 1. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=367387 2. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=387000 3. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360674 Other: 1. http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/carl_whitmore_email.htm General Toy diff info: 2. http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/ A link with a description of the install of an E-locker in a different Toy housing - same principle, plus wiring etc: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/ E-locker cable conversion - in case you fear the electrics (though by all accounts they survive well even in wet use): 1. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139172 2. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51225 More valuable than a manual cable conversion would be a steel shield for the diff-lock motor in this application. It *may* be possible that Michele on this forum can help sourcing bits for us Europeans (shafts, flanges, Longfields etc)??? Hope that lots useful to someone... Cheers, Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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