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Re skinning doors


will_warne

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I was wondering if anyone sells a skin for pushbutton type defender door. Most of it would be easy to do but the recess arround the handle would be a little trickier...

If not, its time to look out for some new doors this weekend

will,

No idea how easy it is, but i have a new N/S skin if you are interested. I managed to source a new genuine door so its now surplus to rqmnts. no reasonable offer refused and i could bring it to Old Sod.

Nigel

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I had my previous lift handle doors reskinned so it should be possible to get push button....

try here

or try Avenue Panels

01933 313945 (01933 37251 cash and carry) very old numbers

Park road

rushden

northants

nn10 0rw

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I know one person who did it on an old vehicle and it looked sort of OK, but mostly it is a waste of time as the first bit to go on Defender doors is almost always the frame around the bottom front corner, so you end up with a hinge bolted to a mixture of rust and fresh air. Unless of course you smite the door on a tree in which case re skinning might be required :)

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OK, the plan is to modify the frame slightly anyway (cut the excess weight) so the corrosion isn't a problem. My doors are just about OK, they do need some attention, though. One of the doors has had contact with several trees anyway.

Tonks, I'm hopefully going to drop said box off to Ash before Saturday. I'm going to give him a call later.

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Yes - paddocks do the skins £55 + vat each.

Why would the recessed bit be a problem? It comes already pressed into the panels.

Its do-able with a hammer and dolly, but is alot easier with a proper door skinning tool, available from Frosts etc.

Alternately I'm sure Ripley is more than capable of doing it for you!

Jon

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Just done my Rangie 2 door skins recently. Crimp tool is good but you still get crimp marks on the folded (inner) tab, if you want a neat finish go over the tab with a copper dolly or a piece of soft wood or wood wrapped with some old leather to tidy it up.

I would recommend lining the edge of the panel with non metallic gutter tape or some thin rubber strip to keep the alloy galvanically isolated from the steel frame, you don't need to be too precise, just trim off the excess tape with a Stanley knife before you paint.

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Will,

If you want to save weight that much, change them for proper two part doors...all that glass and trim weighs you know !

nothing to get in the way of the punch card either !

Oh.....

And get and use the thing and stop fuppin' about :lol::P

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Will, it's not too difficult.

Most of the ones supplied have the lip around the outside partially folded so you only have to beat it round over the frame.

One bit of advice however - get some thick insulating tape and use it to electrically isolate the skin from the frame. a lot of the corrosion in the both the frame and skin are electrolytic in origin. The insulation stops most of this dead!

Si

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Will, it's not too difficult.

Most of the ones supplied have the lip around the outside partially folded so you only have to beat it round over the frame.

One bit of advice however - get some thick insulating tape and use it to electrically isolate the skin from the frame. a lot of the corrosion in the both the frame and skin are electrolytic in origin. The insulation stops most of this dead!

Si

Thanks Si, I was thinking about using RTV sealant to act as an insuator, that way it won't come loose and will also help stick the skin in place while I'm beating the lip down. I'm going to do a lot of work to the frames too to take the weight down and to get rid of some of the water/mud traps.

Les, I know what you mean. I've got a few things I want to do and then I'm going to enjoy the truck for a while. I'm hoping to have it all done by mid to late summer but I'll just have to see...

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If your ging to all this trouble, and as noted about the two-piece door route, wouldn't it be worth looking at possibly getting a pair of frames made in alloy, thereby solving the issues and weight?. Would mean the nasty Series style locks if you go for the old-two-piece style but hay hoo!

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if new skins are £55 each, then i'd go for the two piece door option, as new door bottoms from Craddocks are less than that, and at least you could mix and match, use the fancy ally door tops that rocky mountain sell, or leave the door tops off for events, the bottom half of a two piece door could be stregthened fairly easily aswell....

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No, I don't want two peice doors as, when the top half's in place you can't really open a window and, when its off, you have to store it somewhere. I've played arround with 2 peice doors before and I've never really been a fan.

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No, I don't want two peice doors as, when the top half's in place you can't really open a window and, when its off, you have to store it somewhere. I've played arround with 2 peice doors before and I've never really been a fan.

I wouldnt use a skinning tool, just good old hammer & dolly :D , Geniune skins on defenders are'nt the best ones in the world to do, but easy enough, We normally just fit doors now, because insurance companys dont want to pay the labour to fit them, even though it still works out cheaper <_<

I would recommend Etch the bare metal then PUR Sealer between the skin & Frame, if you use RTV, you will get silicones in the paint

Regards

Graham

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