Aragorn Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 So went to fit the dizzy today, and realised i'd made a bit of an arse of removing it... I didnt make any effort to ensure the engine was at TDC, and just pulled the dizzy out, so now i've no idea where on the cycle the motor is to refit this thing. Other than randomly trying to make it start with the dizzy in different positions, is there a sensible method to work out when the engines on cyl 1 compression stroke (obviously i can spin it round to TDC, but the crank does two rotations compared with the dizzy...), so i can line the rotor arm up with number 1 cylinder as the book suggests? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hattymender Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Don't feel bad. Been there, done it. Will do it again......... I'd go for the 'start from the basics and get it right' approach (any who know me will be laughing at the hypocrisy now). Get it to TDC. Then align with No.1 This is tricky as the helix of the drive will twist the dizzy as you insert. Check leads, it's easy to muddle them And you'll need to get oil pump drive aligned, not hard but you'll need something to turn it. I bashed the end of some copper pipe to make a tool to turn it. And it should fire. Possibly. They're very tolerant, you can be 20 degrees out and it'll try. Then time it up with strobe. Easy! (Only took me 2 days last time I did it 'cos I ignored all of the above and got it 180 degrees out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothy Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Peer down the oil filler hole and make sure that your on the right cycle or you will be a full 180 degrees out, check that the rocker/tappet nearest the inlet port on no1 cylinder has just shut and follow the timing marks so that when rotating in a clockwise direction (rachet on bottom pulley) the timing marks are just about to line up to TDC after a bit of a turn (possible up to 90*) then you will be sure that you are on the firing stroke and not the exhuast one. If you can not see the inlet tappet follow the exhaust one because immeadiatly after it has closed the piston lowers with inlet open and then raises with both valves shut (comperssion) now this is the time we would like the spark, just think it through it is quite easy really. If that don't work rocker box cover off I'm afraid. Jab something down to carefully turn the oil pump to the correct position and here we go. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Or you can put your thumb on the #1 plug-hole and turn the engine with a ratchet on the crank nut and feel it coming up on compression, then look at the marks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Remove rocker cover Passenger side No 1 is front on block Rotate crank with rachet / breaker bar with pencil down the spark plug hole, when pencil stops rising and the valves are both closed thats TDC Then take dizzy and put in so rotor arm and shaft lock into oil pump (rotate oil pump slot to suit) so it then lines up with No 1 on dizzy cap when its driopped in Then start and set timing Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted August 30, 2009 Author Share Posted August 30, 2009 Well i decided to try it using the simple method first. Wound the engine to the TDC mark on the crank pulley, and fitted the dizzy with the arm pointing at cyl 1 (ie 50:50 chance of getting it right) Stuck some jump leads on and turned the key, cranked over a bit and fired right up! Pointed the timing strobe at it and it was waay advanced, so slowly adjusted it back and knocked the revs down until it was showing 800rpm and 6 deg BTDC. It drove better, but still felt a little flat. I had just assumed this was due to it being a 2 ton vehicle, and an engine thats probably making about 130hp... I've just realised i've been a muppet though, and timed it up with the vacuum advance hose fitted, so it will be retarded at full throttle. D'oh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 Well i decided to try it using the simple method first. Wound the engine to the TDC mark on the crank pulley, and fitted the dizzy with the arm pointing at cyl 1 Nice try, but due to the way the dizzy drive gear is cut you need to have the middle of the rotor arm pointing about 30 degrees BEFORE the No1 lead position (that's anticlockwise) before you refit it. Then as you insert & the gears mesh it will turn to point at No1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Aye, worked that out as the first time i fitted it the rotor ended up pointed at cyl 8. It runs fine, bar the timing being out because i had the vac advance connected while i did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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