Had bad are Freelanders?

[sotal]

I'm after a cheapish used car in a few months time and have been considering a Freelander but everyone keeps telling me how bad they are!

I've had a couple of Land Rovers (Discovery 300tdi and Series 2a (still got the series)) so I'm used to LR's normal faults etc, but the Freelander is a bit different, for one it's a bit newer / more modern.

So I'm slightly worried that they will be harder to fix than the old discos / series that I'm used to.

I've also heard all the stories about HG failures on the 1.8 and the V6 (more on the 1.8) - the 1.8's are also the cheapest!

So questions I guess are:

1 - How difficult are they to work on?

2 - Which engine is best to go for (remember I'm after as cheap as possible so factor that in!)

3 - Body Style is any one style better than others, or do any have problems?

4 - Anything else to watch out for?

[FridgeFreezer]

1 - How difficult are they to work on?

1.8's are pretty easy, the engine bay is massive and the engine fits in a Lotus Elise, so you get the idea

Removing the belly pan to change the oil is a bit of a pain, but it's not too bad really - 6 or 8 bolts and it's off.

2 - Which engine is best to go for (remember I'm after as cheap as possible so factor that in!)

1.8 - just keep an eye on the coolant. The modern HG upgrade fixes the problems as long as you don't kill the engine by boiling it dry first. I've just done inlet manifold O-rings on mine (another common fault), the part cost £9 from a main dealer and the job took me 10 minutes and one spanner! The biggest problem is that any problem with a Freelander and everyone will tell you it's the head gasket - even if the tyre's flat - so you need to do a bit of looking first.

The 1.8's are sweet little lumps, not bad MPG wise (27 ish from mine, driven enthusiastically) and loads cheaper than a Diesel to buy because everyone is terrified of them. Plenty of spare parts from any old Rover in the scrappy, motor factors or main dealers (I've been surprised how cheap they are for most stuff).

3 - Body Style is any one style better than others, or do any have problems?

They're all the same wheelbase so not much to choose there, I like my 3dr 'cos in the summer (what we have of it) I can hack round with the roof off. I'd say a removable hard-top is preferable to the rag top as it's a faff to put up & down and they can get a bit ragged after a while. I bought a replacement rag top on eBlag for about £150, and a commercial hard top for £100 so I have the choice

4 - Anything else to watch out for?

The rear diff mount wears out and clonks, but that is just a rubber bush. The viscous couplings can seize up (earlier ones with the "wrong" gearing in the IRD especially), which can damage the IRD or rear diff and scrub tyres, but unless you want to off-road it, just drop the prop off & drive it in front-wheel-drive if it shows signs of drivetrain issues. I had knackered support bearings on my prop which were rumbly.

They don't seem to rust, although the boot cubby box can fill up with water (a 5mm drill bit & some underseal sorts that problem). The boot door window & door lock are linked so if the window mechanism is dodgy you can't open the boot, these are a fair few quid to put right last time I looked.

There was a recall on the handbrake mechanism but most have had it done by now, and the LR dealer will be able to tell you from the VIN or reg plate.

I've known a couple of 5-doors with dodgy sunroofs, the 3dr is a manual pop-up glass affair so not much to do wrong there.

Being indy all round there are 8 CV's and gaiters to look at so check them out.

To be honest, I am a total convert to the freebie - it's like running a normal car (cheap, comfy, quiet, working heater, cruises at motorway speeds, has a stereo) but it's got a green oval on it... and it's a convertible.

[lawrence]

I had one on a Y plate so a few years ago now I bought it second hand and had no end on problems, all electrical related. It was in the garage been fixed 7 times and i only had it for 7 months after that I got rid as it was becoming to problematic. The biggest problem was with the hill decent for some reason it engaged when driving normally and the engine would ref all the way to the red line even if the can was out of gear and my foot not on the peddle. After taking it to the garage they couldn't find the problem as it was intermitent and didn't do it the minute they plugged there testers in.

On the other hand my father in law had a 51 plate and had no problems and has just bought a freelander 2 and he loves it.

Maybe I just got a carp one.

hope this helps

[Dorsetfreelander]

And if you buy the TD4 you don't get engine problems and more mpg (my auto does 35+mpg )'cos it's a BMW engine and what's more the later models had a number of BMW design tweaks which seem to help.

[Eightpot]

I've had one for a short time, and will be happy to see the back of it. I've just had to spend about 700 quid to get it road worthy, and it's a 2000 plate diesel in good nick with 67k miles on the clock -

They have problems with brakes siezing up, dodgy clutch mechanisms, IRD's going bang, viscous units failing at silly mileages, uneven and accelerated tyre wear, etc etc etc -

Ok, we are used to dealing with numerous and larger problems on our Defenders, Rangies and Discos, but don't forget that most Freelanders are less than ten years old! My Dad bought a brand new one a few years ago and it was an utter liabilty - went through tyres at an alarming rate, Land Rover had fitted three cylinder heads and it was on its second engine by 18,000 miles! The clutch mechanism went, starter went - he gave up on it by the time it had got to 40k. My sister foolishly bought it off him, and sold it for peanuts shortly after when the head and gearbox both destructed.

The diesel returns a good mpg, and it does drive quite nicely, apart from the noise from the prop bearings - the road noise has improved quite dramaticaly since I rotated the tyres as well, as they don't like having more tread on the back than the front -

I'll remove the rear prop and viscous as I think thats failing now too - at 67k miles - all quite normal things to do with a 9 year old low mileage car eh...

Oh, and if you get one with HDC, you will probably find that the switch on the gearstick is detached - again, another regular fault. If you look up a bit as well, you'll probably notice the interior clock is bust as well, another problem they have.

Ok, if you pick one up dirt cheap and like them enough, why not. Personally, I wouldn't buy one again.

[sotal]

Well quite a mixed bag of results!

I'm still unsure - from looking around it looks like it would be the 1.8 I'd go for. I only need it as a runabout to work and back (4 miles away) but could do with a bigish car due to having to carry boxes sometimes.

The 1.8 is nice and cheap and I like the styling. 3 door or 5 door doesn't really bother me.

I like the idea of the roof coming off, but isn't only the bit over the boot?

I do about 3-4k a year so it's not going to be doing too much.

If I went for another discovery at a similar price I'd be looking at about a 1996 300tdi which would do about the same mpg and I know I'd be repairing something on that every weekend!

I seem to get the impression (as nobody mentioned it) that the freelanders don't rust like the discos and the rangies?

Is there any way to tell if the uprated HG has been fitted? Or is it worth doing anyway? Once fitted does it mean it won't go again or that it's less likely?

If I spot one really cheap with a blown HG is it easy enough / cheap enough to repair? I don't need a car till after xmas but could buy one now if it was cheap enough and fix up over the winter.

*** Just noticed the title was supposed to say "How Bad are Freelanders" - that's what I get for starting a topic in the middle of the night!

[FridgeFreezer]

I like the idea of the roof coming off, but isn't only the bit over the boot?

Back comes off, sunroof panels lift out, boot window down, side quarter lights can be popped out. With the windows up it's surprisingly civilised on the motorway, even on a cold night with the heater on when you've taken the top off and then spent far too long round your mate's house

I seem to get the impression (as nobody mentioned it) that the freelanders don't rust like the discos and the rangies?

Mine is a '98 S-plate that had been stood in someone's garden for 2+ years when I got it, and there is nothing that would even warrant a second glance.

Is there any way to tell if the uprated HG has been fitted?

Apart from a receipt from a dealer, I don't think so.

Or is it worth doing anyway? Once fitted does it mean it won't go again or that it's less likely?

In theory, once done it should be good, provided no other damage has occurred. I'd leave it alone and only worry about it if it starts using water or getting hot. It may have been done a few years back, in fact by now quite a few will be on a new engine and/or the uprated HG kit.

The full kit is:

Uprated head gasket with shim/head protector piece

Uprated steel locating dowels (to replace the stupid plastic ones, any wonder the heads moved?)

Stiffer ladder frame for the bottom end (although if Dave Andrews says they're not worth worrying about I'm inclined to believe him)

And for extra loveliness:

Thermostat relocation kit (a big spider of plumbing, £60 from LR).

All the Lotus/Caterham boys buy the genuine LR parts so can't be too much wrong with them.

If I spot one really cheap with a blown HG is it easy enough / cheap enough to repair?

Possibly not - if they've boiled it bigtime then the heads supposedly go soft and will never be right no matter what you do. This is why you've got to keep an eye on things, you don't always get away with having it blow its top and then repairing it.

That said, you can buy heads and all the bits from DVA, it just depends what your definition of a cheap runabout is. I got the car for free and spent £1500 on a new engine, but I'm happy with it and I know it's bolted together properly with all the right parts.

[Ally V8]

I see quite a few Freelanders with problems,most are TD4 with engine or fuel system problems,being BMW they are not cheap to repair.Lots of injectors,fuel pumps,engine loom faults,turbo's,turbo modulator's,fuel pressure regulators,intercooler hoses and air flow meters.

The L series diesel may make less power,but its alot more reliable - much better value at the cheaper end of the market.

Forget the v6 petrol,they are a thirsty pain in the bum.

The 1.8 K series as said can be a real bargain,esp if you can spanner to a reasonable standard,you can tell if the modded head gasket is fitted by looking at the edge of it.If the engine hasnt been totally fried they can be a really good work horse with all the mods done.I bought one a couple of years ago and rebuilt the engine with all the mods inc all the coolant hoses and apart from a rotor arm failing its been fine.

[sotal]

I'm feeling more convinced.

I've pretty much ruled out all engines except the 1.8 - which before I started looking properly was the only one I had ruled out!

My definition of cheap is no more than £1500 spent to buy and get to a standard where it will be most unlikely to fail. So that could be £500 on the car and £1000 fixing or £1500 on a car with modded HG etc.

Did they do a 5 door with removable roof or was it 3 door only?

[FridgeFreezer]

My definition of cheap is no more than £1500 spent to buy and get to a standard where it will be most unlikely to fail. So that could be £500 on the car and £1000 fixing or £1500 on a car with modded HG etc.

From what I've seen, a mechanic will charge around £4-500 to do the HG.

Did they do a 5 door with removable roof or was it 3 door only?

Only the 3-door.

[jules]

I have a 2.0lt 98 freelander with 140k on the clock its my forth freelander my first was a CT freelander then the two racing ones this is my work hack.

The bigest problem with them is they suffer from is misdiagnosus sending owners chasing there tailes sorting out problems I replaced VC units and tyres and all sort because I had been told the wheel bearings wear fine when all along they had simply warn out but because they never have play untill thay fall off how ever they will howle way before that.

If you have ever owned a Disoc Rangy or defender you will find a freelander faster, chaper and much more relyable and ok for light offroading but carp at a play day.

Remember in 2004 the production class 1.8 freelander was 11th over all in the british championships (the higest place Bowler wild cat was 16th) to me that kind of relyability speaks for its self.

(sorry for some reason I can't spell check this)

[FridgeFreezer]

The bigest problem with them is they suffer from is misdiagnosis

I'll second that - if it's a 1.8 then anything that goes wrong with it "must be the head gasket" (even if it's a flat tyre) and most people who "know about land rovers" really don't know anything about freelanders (just as they are terrified of anything with an ECU).

[Exmoor Beast]

we had a 1.8ES spec Freebie and loved it. Don't be scared of them just be carefull buying one. Great little cars I think

I know far far more people who rate them highly that hate them.

Will

[jules]

I'll second that - if it's a 1.8 then anything that goes wrong with it "must be the head gasket" (even if it's a flat tyre) and most people who "know about land rovers" really don't know anything about freelanders (just as they are terrified of anything with an ECU).

I think you have hit the nail on the head .

[viorelluta]

Let's be honest, the 1.8 is by far underpowered.

I was driving mine for almost 3 years now, I love this car, but all the time I get the feeling that the little engine is struggling to push (or pull...) the car forward. You can simply feel it!

My next SUV shall have at least 150hp, and it'll be a Diesel.

[FridgeFreezer]

Let's be honest, the 1.8 is by far underpowered.

I've not found that. Compared to any other LR product it's quite nippy, it feels like a rocketship compared to a TDI Defender and compares pretty favourably with V8 Range Rovers & Discos. I did find it was underpowered when the inlet manifold O-rings were leaking due to basically having a constant air leak & misfire, but 10 minutes and £9 sorted that out.

[BogMonster]

Seconded what fridge said - I think the 1.8 is quite nippy - but the one I used to run around in needed a new engine just to fix a flat tyre so we got rid of it

[MITCHF]

Wow, I was going to post for opinions on an 06 TD4 Station Wagon with 18k for £10k.

My Dad was thinking of buying, having read this I think we'll leave alone

[mcdan]

I buyed my free by second hand when it had 64k km in 2005 (it's a 2000y), now it have 120k km and I've got a lot of noises, head gasket, water pump,rear diff,sunroof,

but over this I love it a lot, it take me on a offroad trak at the same way of a disco and it running good on freeway (whet it's going well)

I spend a lot of my freetime to work arond it...now it's time for a Disco but Free is a great light offroad.

[Matt S]

Wow, I was going to post for opinions on an 06 TD4 Station Wagon with 18k for £10k.

My Dad was thinking of buying, having read this I think we'll leave alone

Just seen this post. Not sure about the valuation at £10k (but seems to compare reasonably to others in classifieds and ebay given the low mileage) but in terms of the vehicle, mine is a 2005 Td4 Station Wagon, with 64,000 miles. The fuel pump and air flow meter were changed at 43,000, otherwise it has given pretty much faultless service. It has had regular servicing every 12k miles as per requirements, which is a bit pricey, but that is really my only criticism (apart from having a small boot). It leads a fairly hard life and is not given much tlc.

There is a lot of negativity around Freelanders, but I think they are great vehicles. My brother-in-law is on his third (a 2007 TD4 Freelander 2 now after 2 TD4 Freelander 1's), my girlfriend's dad has an S-reg L-series diesel with about 110,000 miles on it and her sister has a 2001 TD4 with 90-odd thousand on it, so I have a bit of an idea of the vehicle.

Freelanders seem to polarise people's opinion (see forum for details ), and you probably can buy a 'better' car (more reliable, more room etc) for similar money, but if you want a Land Rover, and at least 35mpg, and like the looks and capability - much better off-road than you'd think - then they are unbeatable. When I change mine (not for a while yet) it will more than likely be for a Freelander 2.

Don't be too put off if it's what you really want!

[Blippie]

Not much to add really, but we've had a TD4 from new in 2002. Now done 92,000 and one breakdown due to failed fuel pump. Most reliable car we've ever had...

Cheers

Blippie

[sotal]

I'm looking at a 1999 top spec model with a suspected broken IRD unit. It's a 2.0 di.

First question is the IRD going to be expensive - I'm guesstimating around £600

Second - is the 2.0 di OK? Is it better than the td4? in terms of reliability

Third - Would you go for it?

Fourth - Rough estimate on it's worth - mileage is a tad over 110k

Fifth - Anything else to look out for?

It's currently running fine with the rear prop removed, but if I did buy I'd want to fix that

[FridgeFreezer]

Depends how accurate the description is - could be just the IRD, could be that the VCU seized and killed it.

From what I've heard the early diesel (a-la Rover 420/620) is unspectacular, leaky, but basically reliable, economical, and cheap enough to replace if it goes bang.

Why would you bother fixing the IRD? They drive perfectly in 2WD (remember the same engine & gearbox live as 2WD in the Rover cars), it's almost more than the car's worth if you have to buy an IRD and/or VCU.

"Would you go for it" depends greatly on price. If it was cheap, then yes I'd go for it, but I wouldn't bother fixing the drivetrain.

[sotal]

Thanks mate,

The VCU was mentioned but to be honest I don't know what it is! Need to read up - as I understood it the IRD is the bit that changes the speed of drive to the rear wheels, and the VCU is the viscous coupling that connects to the prop?

I presume both will be gone so will be quite expensive to sort?

Just out of interest will it do any harm to drive in 2wd? If I were to crash would the insurance company have something to say about the missing prop? Any bother with MOT?

I only need it for popping to work and back - 5 miles, could do with the size of vehicle for moving boxes to and fro from work.

[FridgeFreezer]

The IRD is bolted to the (2WD car) gearbox to give drive to the back. It is effectively like having the centre diff locked on a normal landy. The viscous (VCU) is in the middle of the rear prop and allows the front & rear wheels to turn at different speeds (a-la the centre diff in a normal landy) but will lock up if there is too much slip.

LR made the gearing such that the front end (effectively a FWD car) pulls the back end along, this makes it drive more like a normal car most of the time as the front wheels are doing all the work. Unfortunately they got it wrong so the constant slip causes the VCU's to fail and lock up. This then stresses the IRD, which can break.

In answer to your next question then - no harm whatsoever in driving it FWD as that is what the engine & box are originally designed to do. Mine has done more than 20,000 miles like it with no ill effects.

The IRD and VCU are not cheap to fix, unless you really need the 4x4 ability I wouldn't bother.