orange rover Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 the water pump needs replacement, making noise + cooling efficiency slowly decreasing. job looks quite straigt forward, anything to watch out for? noticed that there is a stud (where the alternator bracket ist fixed) does that need to be fully removed or is it enough to remove the nut (don't have a stud removal tool). furthermore should i use the gasket or better use some sealant (last owner seemed to have used sealant as far as i can tell) regards orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Stud doesn't need to be removed (although getting the pump off it without doing any damage can be a git, judging by mine). I've had one replaced at a garage and done one myself, both times done with gaskets and have been fine. Only real problem I've had was getting the fan viscous coupling off the front of the pump - the one I had done at a garage was because I couldn't shift that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 the water pump needs replacement, making noise + cooling efficiency slowly decreasing.job looks quite straigt forward, anything to watch out for? noticed that there is a stud (where the alternator bracket ist fixed) does that need to be fully removed or is it enough to remove the nut (don't have a stud removal tool). furthermore should i use the gasket or better use some sealant (last owner seemed to have used sealant as far as i can tell) regards orange be extremely careful with the long bolts that go into the block- go very very slowly with them- try tightening half a turn first! you can very very easiy snap one in the block and they a right hassle to get out- a full front end strip down i would go with gasket personally! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 i would go with gasket personally! Me too, cost pennies and could save a lot of grief, that said, I still cover the gasket with a little hylomar - ott? I have re-used a water pump gasket, but thats only after the pattern failed - 3 hours after fitting- great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 the water pump needs replacement, making noise + cooling efficiency slowly decreasing.job looks quite straigt forward, anything to watch out for? noticed that there is a stud (where the alternator bracket ist fixed) does that need to be fully removed or is it enough to remove the nut (don't have a stud removal tool). furthermore should i use the gasket or better use some sealant (last owner seemed to have used sealant as far as i can tell) regards orange The MOST important reply would be to get a piece of cardboard mark out the shape using the new water pump, pierce cardboard where screws will go and then when you remove the screws put them in the correct corresponding hole of the cardboard. The screws are all different lengths and threads and only Land Rover could do it.................................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted April 2, 2006 Author Share Posted April 2, 2006 thanks to everyone for the imput! getting the viscous fan off will not be a problem, had it off a couple of times (first time was a real pita though) cardboard to mark out the screws is a good idea! how do i get the pump off, when the bolts are removed? hit it (gently) with a mallet? concern with gaskets is not the cost, but i want it to be watertight, anything speaks against covering the gasket with a bit of hylomar as 898kor suggested? not sure what pughwash means with snaping the bolts in the block, sure overtightning would not be a good idea, but why else should they snap? regars orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 how do i get the pump off, when the bolts are removed? hit it (gently) with a mallet? Replace the "hit with "tap" then move gently on to "hit" and then "thwack" as required, nylon / wood / leather hammer prefered.covering the gasket with a bit of hylomar as 898kor suggested? Has never hurt mine - honest! -Never had one leak at the gasket either!sure overtightning would not be a good idea, but why else should they snap? Corrosion and slenderness - the ali vs steel thing with water added to fight, when you replace the studs, copper grease once, twice and thrice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 how do i get the pump off, when the bolts are removed? hit it (gently) with a mallet?not sure what pughwash means with snaping the bolts in the block, sure overtightning would not be a good idea, but why else should they snap? Pump should just fall off if you have all the bolts off unless it is well sealed with gasket sealant, in whch case you can either slip a stanley round the seal or smack it i could be getting my bolts confused (as it has been about 12 months since i last had to do a pump) but i am pretty sure that 2 - 4 bolts that hold the waterpump on, also travel through the timing cover and into the block- someone correct me if i'm wrong. Anyway these bolts that go into the block will have corroded if your pump hasn't been off in more than 12 months. They can be an absolute bitch to get out as they sieze due to the corrosion- i have sheared 2 off on 2 seperate occasions- the first occasion i had to take the engine out in order to get both the bolts out that had sheared IN the block- the second time i just had to take the timing cover off and gently ease the bolts out. One trick i did find was to very slightly overtighten the bolts before trying to undo them- it seems to open the threads out a little bit, clear some of the gunk out, and really make it easier to take the water pump bolts out. If you feel a bolt start to go- STOP and try and get some help or work round it- at least find someone with some stud extractors! I hope i'm not way off base here- and what i have said actually helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 @pugwash: looked at the parts manual, seems like 3 bolts are longer and go through the block. got the message with regards to corossion and removing them. will try very hard not to breakt them! regards orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Take a look at the bolts and replace the lot; cheap as chips. I have one snap when doing it up to the right torque. I then had to remove the pump; luckily the bolt reamins was in finger tight. I just used gasket only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 just tried moving the bolts to see whether they are seized, all the long ones moved nor problem. so i should either call myself lucky or the previous owner knew about copper grease job will be done tommorrow evening, should be straight forward with none of the bolts seized. propably y good idea to use new bolts, but won't be able to get them that fast. in the manual it says that loctite should be used on the long bolts? will that prevent them from seizing as well or should i better use copper grease? regards orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 just tried moving the bolts to see whether they are seized, all the long ones moved nor problem. so i should either call myself lucky or the previous owner knew about copper grease job will be done tommorrow evening, should be straight forward with none of the bolts seized. propably y good idea to use new bolts, but won't be able to get them that fast. in the manual it says that loctite should be used on the long bolts? will that prevent them from seizing as well or should i better use copper grease? regards orange I would not use loctite cos' in 2 years when you come to replace the water pump you will regret the decision to have unremovable screws.............................. Just use copper grease and if you find corrosion on the mating faces of the pump and block just the smallest finger wipe of clear silicon sealant will do the trick and not be too difficult to remove next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange rover Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 job done, thanks to everyone for their help. no major problems, just a lot of different bolts! pretty hard to sort them out in case you mix them up! took them out one by one and out them in the new water pump and then switched them over. worked well. used gasket with a bit of hylomar and lots of copper grease, no loctite. when removing the old pump, i realized that some of the bolts were rather loose, do they tend to work themselves loose? kind regards orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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