SteveG Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Went to fit my 21.99 Central Door locking kit to the Defender. The motors were easy to fit to the two front doors. Need to think more about the rear. Rather than use the actuator supplied with the kit I thought I would use the Factory fit LR Alarm. Mine was a base 90 with no alarm, but they all ship with them so after buying two remotes I got it activated for a tenner at local independent LR specialist. I thought I would trigger the CDL from the LR alarm and use the ECU's outputs for the motors. After looking at circuit diagrams on RAVE (thanks Stephen ) it seemed straight forward. Located the Alarm ecu and connectors bit of pain to get to as you have to take off all of the lower part of dashboard and steering surround. Decided that I would cut an access hole in case I had any wiring problems in the future. Did all this, pulled the connector and **c* it there are no wires where there should be!! I'm pretty sure that the ECU it still putting outputs on the pins just that they obviously they have different wiring loom for non-CDL and CDL versions!! So they wire in heated windows, electric windows, alarm + ECU even for base 90's but then have a non CDL loom and a CDL loom - go figure that one!! So just need to get some terminating pins that will fit the connectors and try again. Now I've started I'm going to go this route rather than use kits actuator, although that would be the easy route as it only needs a constant 12v feed Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Servies you right IMHO for being flash b*gger Central locking ............... Tut Tut.............................. You be going for one of them flash "Oil leak free" kits next Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Steve, If I can venture from my armchair for a moment.... The Td5 vehicles all have an alarm ECU because the Td5 engine ECU requires it to run - simple as that - a security measure. On a non alarm vehicle (like most of them are here, I would have thought any UK vehicle would be alarmed though!) it is just set to a "dummy" mode so it provides the "no you are not being nicked please start on command" signal to the engine as soon as it wakes up. Where did you get a CDL kit from for that price? I was thinking about (and have been for about a year) getting a Falcon one for my 90, but as usual I couldn't be @r&ed getting out of my armchair so I haven't. Every time I go to the back door and find it is locked and the keys are still in the ignition I curse my inertia.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattD110td5x Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 Rather than use the actuator supplied with the kit I thought I would use the Factory fit LR Alarm. Mine was a base 90 with no alarm, but they all ship with them... Hi Steve, When I had a brief look into this same thing a few years back there was (at least) one other part missing, there is a coil around the ingnition lock that talks to an RFID in the key (or fob) to check that the key is still there. I don't think the Td5 ECU checks for the existance of the Alarm ECU if the alarm/immobiliser function is disabled in the Td5 ECU. I think the alarm ECU still sends the code if it is enabled. AFAIK the only reason that the alarm ECU is there is to control the interior light and turn it off to save the battery and of course make that slow dimming bit Of course since then I have fitted a third party immobiliser and removed it after talking to some guys who were stuck in the bush when the el-cheepo immobiliser worked a little too well. Third party immobilisers in a Defender are a hit-n-miss affair, the 12V at the dash falls to below 8V on cranking so the immobiliser relay drops out You can either use a second battery or an immobiliser from a 6v motorcycle ttfn, Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I'm guessing this one? Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I don't think the Td5 ECU checks for the existance of the Alarm ECU if the alarm/immobiliser functionis disabled in the Td5 ECU. I think the alarm ECU still sends the code if it is enabled. AFAIK the only reason that the alarm ECU is there is to control the interior light and turn it off to save the battery and of course make that slow dimming bit Yes it does, because when you fit a new engine ECU you need to "learn" the alarm code even on a non alarm vehicle, or else it doesn't go! New 300Tdi Defenders like mine don't have the dimmer on the light, because they don't have an alarm ECU, because they don't have a Td5. And are all the better for lacking those things IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattD110td5x Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Yes it does, because when you fit a new engine ECU you need to "learn" the alarm code even on a non alarm vehicle, or else it doesn't go! I thought the Td5 ECU had to learn the code of the fob not the alarm ECU? and that the alarm ECU just passed the fob code straight to the Td5 ECU? hmmm.... starting to get too complicated I guess that the Tdi has the opposite problem can you immobilise them? anyone could bypass the stop solenoid. Does it have an electric fuel pump? what about a hidden solenoid in the fuel line somewhere.... I suppose you could just live in a place where people don't nick defenders ttfn Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Yes it does, because when you fit a new engine ECU you need to "learn" the alarm code even on a non alarm vehicle, or else it doesn't go! I have something akin to that in my series, once I've got in I have to slam the door to let the engine know I'm in, and then the final step in the starting process is to shout "START YOU B@$T@RD" at the engine and it starts. The system does fail when it gets too wet so I'm thinking of down grading to a pair of donkeys on a string at the front to pull me along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 I thought the Td5 ECU had to learn the code of the fob not the alarm ECU?and that the alarm ECU just passed the fob code straight to the Td5 ECU? hmmm.... starting to get too complicated I guess that the Tdi has the opposite problem can you immobilise them? anyone could bypass the stop solenoid. Does it have an electric fuel pump? what about a hidden solenoid in the fuel line somewhere.... I suppose you could just live in a place where people don't nick defenders ttfn Matthew Both. You need to program the alarm plips (key fob) into the alarn ECU for them to work, but after renewing the engine ECU you need to "learn" the alarm code. I think the way it works is that every alarm ECU outputs a unique security code and the engine ECU needs to receive one of these, and it needs to match the one it has "learned", before it will run. Yeah just live in a place where nobody nicks anything like here! Tdi immob use a "spider" system same as a Discovery I believe. Not very robust in terms of nickability though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 Yes Luke the CDL kit is from Maplin. Seems a good kit for the money. In comparison not sure why you have to pay so much for Falcon4x4 one. There's also the benefit that Maplin sell the motors separately so it's easy to replace one at a later date. Matthew. It's a simple task for anyone with T4 and/or Autologic to activate the Alarm ECU and register as many key fobs as you want. I just went for two fobs and it was a 5 minute job for Mansfield 4x4 to give me a fully functioning LR Alarm and Immobiliser. All in about 70 pounds. I like the way that LR charge 250 pounds as an option for the Alarm on a new one Just need to look on Vehicle Wiring's site and find some suitable push in connectors for the Alarm ECU connector plugs and hopefully it will work. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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