western Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 timer needs a signal so it knows the engine is running, I know on mine if the red oil press light comes on, the timer drops out if the timer isn't energised the 70amp relay doesn't work, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Right, this is one for the electric guru's here.My relay and timer are wired as Western's diagram with exception to the Oil Pressure Feed. I am using an Off/Mom Carling switch (fog). I know the wiring is correct and working for the relay but I suspect the timer is duff. So, do I need to wire in the Oil Pressure Feed for it to work? or would the relay work without it? I would have thought it would work without it but I may be wrong? Let me know before I drop more £££££ on a new relay! (or give up and go for an on/off switch) G I have two timer relays. One for the left and one for the right of the 'screen. I have one MOM switch wired from ign. The Relays are wired as they would be normally. I've not had a problem. As I've said earlier. If I switch the ign off, Then the heated 'screen switches off. I only switch the 'screen on again if I have the engine running. The timer relays stay on for nearly fifteen minutes, far longet then is normally needed, if I want to swatch the 'screen off then I just touch the switch, thanks Ralph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirocco Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Righto, So I wired in a piggyback connection to the OPS (Oil Pressure Switch) as a temp thing and that seemed to be feeding the relay with some volts. However I could not get the switch to energise the relay. when I swapped the 2 switch cables over it would power the screen but I think this was just going straight through terminal 8 (timer) to the relay. Sooooo, I think the timer is duff. Does anybody have a known working spare they want to part with? I leave for Norway in 12 days gulp failing that in going down the on/off route. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 I have a spare it was sold to me as a working timer, I haven't tried it in my 110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 So where are you buying the heated screens nowadays? Best price/quality I paid about 215 fitted from Pro-Glaze at Chorley; admittedly about 2 years ago. They did 2 for me and one for a friend and they have been no trouble. As they were supplying and fitting(but not wiring) it took away all risk of breakage. I just got the yellow pages out and rang round. I advise getting a new rubber to fit unless yours is really new, as they are relatively cheap, but you wouldn't want to have to take the screen out to change it. They fitted 2 terminal ones, and the warmup is very quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 So where are you buying the heated screens nowadays? Best price/quality try here http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=85586&start=10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 found a problem with my heated screen, when switched on with engine running the system switches off almost straight away, wondering if the wire to oil pressure switch has come adrift, as it was fine before I took it off the road to do the chassis swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 managed to cure the above problem, don't know how it just works as it should again. now there is a new fault the existing timer unit only stays on for approx 1 minute instead of the 8 minutes it did when fitted [timer is a 2nd hand ex-RRC unit] so I bought another timer relay from VWP there GLR10 timer for heated screen Now I'm not sure if this GLR10 is a direct replacement for the LR timer my wiring diagram attached & the wiring diagram for the GLR10 timer, layout of the terminals is the same but I suspect the wiring in my truck will need altering to get the new timer to work. I would appreciate some guidance please Do I just swap this into my system or have I got to alter some of my wiring in the timer relay socket to make the new one work ?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.I.B Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 try here http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=85586&start=10 The requested topic does not exist. I think it's a bad link maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 managed to cure the above problem, don't know how it just works as it should again. now there is a new fault the existing timer unit only stays on for approx 1 minute instead of the 8 minutes it did when fitted [timer is a 2nd hand ex-RRC unit] so I bought another timer relay from VWP there GLR10 timer for heated screen Now I'm not sure if this GLR10 is a direct replacement for the LR timer my wiring diagram attached & the wiring diagram for the GLR10 timer, layout of the terminals is the same but I suspect the wiring in my truck will need altering to get the new timer to work. I would appreciate some guidance please Do I just swap this into my system or have I got to alter some of my wiring in the timer relay socket to make the new one work ?????? Looking at the two diagrams you will have to change the wiring. Oil pressure switch (old pin 6) to pin 2. This will work as a switched earth. 70 amp relay coil (one of wires going to old pin 8) to pin 5. Ignition live (old pin 4 ) to pins 3 and 4. Momentary switch between pins 1 and 4 (old pins 8 and 5) That's my take on it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Thanks Barry, I can extract the terminals from the socket for relocating to new positions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Let me know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 The GLR10 requires a momentary positive to initiate it. The Land Rover timer (PRC6796) is initiated by a momentary negative. So, you will need to alter your timer and switch wiring to suit. This diagram shows how to wire a GLR10, using a 2002 Defender HFS switch (which has been modified to provide a positive pulse to initiate the GLR10) - You will need to change the wiring to your Britax switch, so that it switches a live to pin 1 of the GLR10 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Just read through this, I have a 3 terminal HFS to go into my 90, and have a 2006 td5 XS loom to fit too. I've labelled and traced most of the multiplugs/wiring and it looks as though I only have a two wire setup for the screen. (Black wire at one side, purple/slate 4mm2 at the other). I traced back through the looms to the relay for the HFS and this has a non OE spec 40a 4 pin relay installed ... What I did notice was signs of overheating on the rear multiplug. Should this have a 70amp relay fitted here? Looking at the multiplug it won't accommodate the larger blade connectors as fitted to the 70a relays I have looked at. I had a look on the ruskie microcat and the LR workshop parts catalogue but can't seem to find the rating for this. I have the timer as part of the OE loom so would it be advisable to upgrade the switching relay this while the loom is on the floor with dual feeds and a 70a relay/multiplug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Thanks Paul & Barry if it's not raining I'll give it a good looking at tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Just read through this, I have a 3 terminal HFS to go into my 90, and have a 2006 td5 XS loom to fit too. I've labelled and traced most of the multiplugs/wiring and it looks as though I only have a two wire setup for the screen. (Black wire at one side, purple/slate 4mm2 at the other). I traced back through the looms to the relay for the HFS and this has a non OE spec 40a 4 pin relay installed ... What I did notice was signs of overheating on the rear multiplug. Should this have a 70amp relay fitted here? Looking at the multiplug it won't accommodate the larger blade connectors as fitted to the 70a relays I have looked at. I had a look on the ruskie microcat and the LR workshop parts catalogue but can't seem to find the rating for this. I have the timer as part of the OE loom so would it be advisable to upgrade the switching relay this while the loom is on the floor with dual feeds and a 70a relay/multiplug? The factory fitted relay is 40A It's not clear from Microcat for the TD5 Defender, as it doesn't specify which relay does what. But, for the Puma Defender, Microcat specifies each relay's function and, for the heated windscreen, the relay is - YWB500060 This is the same relay used for several other functions and, if you look it up, it's specified as a 40A relay - http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/17158/99/YWB500060-40AMP-RELAY.html http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/YWB500060G.cfm As you have signs of burning at the relay socket, it will need changing anyway, so you might as well change it for a 70A relay and socket, with dual feeds to suit your heated screen. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Oil pressure switch (old pin 6) to pin 2. This will work as a switched earth.70 amp relay coil (one of wires going to old pin 8) to pin 5. Ignition live (old pin 4 ) to pins 3 and 4. Momentary switch between pins 1 and 4 (old pins 8 and 5) adjusted the wiring to match the above plus moved the PY wire of the switch warning light to connect with the feed to 70 amp relay, so the warning light comes on when screen is powered now I have this ---- ignition on [engine not running] heated screen switch warning light on & the timer energises the 70amp relay engine running switch light goes out, press the switch & the oil pressure red light on dash warning panel comes on, nothing else happens. reckon I've got something wrong but what ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 That's because I got it wrong Ralph. Of course now thinking about it the oil switch breaks the earth connection once the engine is running not the other way around as would be needed by my wiring advice. Sorry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 OK, no worries, the oil pressure [OP] is on terminal 2 should 2 go direct to earth as shown on the glr10 timer connections ? & connect OP to which terminal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 You could add a normally closed relay with the coil between the oil pressure switch and switched 12v and the normally closed contacts between earth and pin 2 on your timer relay. This would have the effect that with ignition off you'd get no timer relay as no 12v to timer relay, ignition on but engine not running you would have no earth to timer relay (as extra relay would be energised thus removing the earth), and ignition on engine running you would have a powered timer relay so it would work as desired. The extra relay could just as sensibly be put in the switched 12v line to the timer relay if you desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 It may be possible to wire it without an extra relay but without knowing the exact circuit inside the relay it's not possible to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 would it work without adding another set of connections/relay ? maybe like this glr10 terminals 1 switch 2 earth 3 ign feed 4 oil pressure switch 5 to 70 amp relay/screen on the GLR10 diagram I'm not sure what the +AC means [accessory maybe] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Not possible to say for sure Ralph without looking inside it, I doubt it would work like that, maybe if a resistor was also fitted between pin 4 and +12v as well it might, however without seeing inside it hard to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 OK, I'm happy to pop the cover off the timer & post some photo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 hope these are good enough innards of the GLR10 timer relay found the last diagram, if it helps from here http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/210199-GLR10-Timer-relay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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