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Heated front screen

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OK, it will take a while to make a cct diagram up from those pictures. For now if you want to have your screen working instead of having the OP switch connected to pin 2 just make pin 2 a permanent earth and don't use the OP switch, obviously this means the screen will work when ignition is on but engine isn't running.

I'll sort a diagram this evening hopefully.

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I'll leave the timer out for now,all the connections are fully insulated spade terminal fittings,so no bare wire ends can tough anything

a cloth for wiping the screen dry will do until we can get this sorted. your help is much appreciated, :i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy:

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OK then, have found the datasheet for that timer chip on the PCB so that should make things easier. I'll work through it this evening. Better get on with some chores now......

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good find, OK best I don't get you in trouble with Mrs CW, or she might not be reading the riot act to me :rtfm::hysterical:

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Barry this is the internals of my Britax switch momentary type with warning light which has seperate connections & fits in switch body.

hand written notes about terminal 5 & 8 refer to the LR timer unit not the GLR10 timer.

post-20-0-29525100-1390138609_thumb.jpg

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The factory fitted relay is 40A

It's not clear from Microcat for the TD5 Defender, as it doesn't specify which relay does what.

But, for the Puma Defender, Microcat specifies each relay's function and, for the heated windscreen, the relay is - YWB500060

This is the same relay used for several other functions and, if you look it up, it's specified as a 40A relay -

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/17158/99/YWB500060-40AMP-RELAY.html

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/YWB500060G.cfm

As you have signs of burning at the relay socket, it will need changing anyway, so you might as well change it for a 70A relay and socket, with dual feeds to suit your heated screen.

.

Thanks Paul. I'll fire off an order for some goodies

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would it work without adding another set of connections/relay ?

maybe like this

glr10 terminals

1 switch

2 earth

3 ign feed

4 oil pressure switch

5 to 70 amp relay/screen

on the GLR10 diagram I'm not sure what the +AC means [accessory maybe]

Have had a look at the circuit in the relay and for this to work you will also need a pull up resistor between pin 4 and an ignition live (not sure of value or rating yet).

Pin 4 powers the internal circuitry in the relay.

Pin 3 and pin 5 are the switched side of the relay and are connected to nothing else inside the relay.

Pin 1 is the switch input and requires a positive pulse to start the timer, a second pulse stops the timer again so you don't have to wait for the timer to complete.

Pin 2 is the earth connection of the relay.

Your switch will need pin 1 connected +12v and pin 5 connected to pin 1 of the relay.

The warning light in the switch will need connecting between earth and pin 5 of the relay.

The alternative to a pull up resistor is to fit a relay with normally closed contacts to disconnect the ignition live from pin 4. The relay would simply have one side of the coil connected to ignition live and the other side to the oil pressure switch, the switched side of the relay would be connected between pin 4 of the timer relay and ignition live.

EDIT: After a little more thought using a pull up resistor would be problematic so use the extra relay method.

EDIT2: It would be problematic as the pull up resistor would be in series with the timer relays coil resulting in it not getting the full 12v, I don't know what the minimum voltage to activate the internal relay coil is.

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Thanks for taxing your brain :i-m_so_happy:

so if I understand the above correctly. I should end up with

timer

1 output from momentary switch to energise timer & 70 amp relay

2 to earth

3 output to 70 amp relay to power the screen heating

4 ign feed 12v --- could I use the feed from oil pressure switch instead of a ign controlled seperate feed ??

5 to operate switch warning light when screen 70 amp relay is energised & screen heating on

I thought this was going to be a easy fit :wacko::wacko:

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As I understand it Ralph the oil pressure switch is earth when engine isn't running and open circuit when oil is at pressure (there is only one wire from it on the microcat wiring diagram I had). If that's wrong then let me know.

I'll draw a diagram similar to your original one for you once you confirm the oil pressure switch operation.

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I didn't bother using the oil pressure switch as the earth. Well you see I reckoned that I could remember to switch off the 'screen if the engine wasn't running. As it happens with the timer relays I've got fitted, if the ign is switched off then so are the 'screen timer relays.

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As I understand it Ralph the oil pressure switch is earth when engine isn't running and open circuit when oil is at pressure (there is only one wire from it on the microcat wiring diagram I had). If that's wrong then let me know.

I'll draw a diagram similar to your original one for you once you confirm the oil pressure switch operation.

Barry Yes only one [brown/white trace] wire on oil pressure switch, so might just leave that out of the circuit

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Which type of 70a relay are you using for a 3 tab screen? I've had a look about and can find 4pin ones but the only 5 pin 70a ones I've found are changeover relays. Did you just splice/piggy back for the second feed off the 4pin one?

I have a spare td5 loom and was going to use this to rob another 40a relay/mount and give each element it's own relayed supply

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Ive used a GLR10 with the output split to two 30A 4 pin relays, one for each side of the screen.

A momentary push button switch in the aux switch panel keeps it simple.

IMG_20140107_162027.jpg

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Which type of 70a relay are you using for a 3 tab screen? I've had a look about and can find 4pin ones but the only 5 pin 70a ones I've found are changeover relays. Did you just splice/piggy back for the second feed off the 4pin one?

I have a spare td5 loom and was going to use this to rob another 40a relay/mount and give each element it's own relayed supply

On a 4 x terminal 70A relay, you would run the 2 x live wires from the same terminal.

The large (9.5mm) terminals can usually be supplied to suit 4.0 - 6.0mm2, or 6.0 - 10.0mm2 cable.

As you're using 2 x 4.0mm2 cables, you would need the larger terminals.

Using 2 x 40A relays (one per element) would also work.

.

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Thanks for taxing your brain :i-m_so_happy:

so if I understand the above correctly. I should end up with

timer

1 output from momentary switch to energise timer & 70 amp relay

2 to earth

3 output to 70 amp relay to power the screen heating

4 ign feed 12v --- could I use the feed from oil pressure switch instead of a ign controlled seperate feed ??

5 to operate switch warning light when screen 70 amp relay is energised & screen heating on

I thought this was going to be a easy fit :wacko::wacko:

Barry Yes only one [brown/white trace] wire on oil pressure switch, so might just leave that out of the circuit

Sorry I thought I'd replied to this Ralph.

Without using the oil pressure the wiring of the timer relay is simply

1 output of momentary switch (pin 5 of switch, pin 1 of switch to +12v)

2 earth

3 ign feed

4 ign feed

5 connect to 70A relay input and switch warning light

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Brilliant Thanks loads Barry, :i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy: info saved & printed.

I'll fit the GLR10 tomorrow when home from work & let you know the result, the oil pressure wire for the old timer can stay in place, it'll be safely tucked out of the way & not able to touch anything else..

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to chuffing cold outside to attempt fitting the GLR10 timer, going to leave it until the weekend & more daylight,

just had to refit the downpipe to turbo outlet as it decided to seperate just before I turned into my drive, got to warm me up again now.

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On 21/01/2014 at 9:41 PM, CwazyWabbit said:

Without using the oil pressure the wiring of the timer relay is simply

1 output of momentary switch (pin 5 of switch, pin 1 of switch to +12v)

2 earth

3 ign feed

4 ign feed

5 connect to 70A relay input and switch warning light

using the connection detailed above, new GLR10 timer now fitted & working :i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy:

BIG Thanks to all for your great info.

my revised wiring diagram included for use by anyone who wants to use it for their vehicle heated screen wiring. Note wire colour codes are my choice.

forgot to add it to the diagram, note there is a 30amp fuse at the power connection at battery.

post-20-0-91784000-1390653207_thumb.jpg

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had the heated screen on this morning, all working fine & timer switched off after 10 mins, so happy bunny :i-m_so_happy:

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I've got 2 dead LR heated screen relays, PRC6796, Do you want them to play with or just photo's of the internal circuit items ???

no good to me now, so happy to throw them over to Surrey.

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OK, PM your address & I'll post them on Saturday morning, no use to me, so you can have them for free.

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