sotal Posted October 4, 2009 Posted October 4, 2009 I pulled the gearbox out today - quite impressed with myself for managing on my own with the help of my new engine hoist! I asked the other day if the gearbox has to go out of the passenger door as everyone says it has to, I didn't get an answer to that bit so incase anyone needs to know I can't see any reason why everyone says to go out of the passenger door! It fits out of the drivers door with acres of space. Obviously you have to remove the steering wheel but that's a piddly job compared to the rest of it! Anyway I drained the contents of the main gearbox. Quite a bit of metal dropped out but it all looks like flat plate mashed up so I hope it is all detent springs from the synchro? Can anyone confirm? Apologies for attached picture - I only got to take one picture before the batteries went flat so now have to wait for them to charge. If you need any close ups just ask. Oil was black/greyish, there didn't seem that much in there. Just as a reminder the gearbox has been the same since I put it in 3 or 4 years ago. It goes into all gears ok and stays in gear but 3rd and 4th crunch quite often. The gearbox generally seems a bit noisy. It's a suffix D box. It's been a bit neglected during my ownership due to it's problems and knowing I would one day pull it out. I've never even checked the oil level in it. Does it seem OK to fix up? My alternatives are a series 2a box (the original from this - never used it so condition uknown), or I have a series 3 box which won't stay in 2nd. Quote
ejparrott Posted October 4, 2009 Posted October 4, 2009 Im just finishing off the rebuild of a Gearbox, they're easy enough to do. It'll be noisy because the layshafts bearings are knackered. It will be the synchro if it crunches, assuming that your clutch doesnt have air in it and isnt failing to disengage. My gearbox now goes out the bottom - i have a removal crossmember, makes life soooo much easier! Quote
sotal Posted October 4, 2009 Author Posted October 4, 2009 It's not been too bad to get the gearbox out, I spent half a day removing the floor and seatbox, then I had the gearbox out by lunch time today so only 1 day in total. Clutch was fine and 1st and 2nd engaged perfectly it was just 3rd and 4th. They go in ok if you change very slowly and use a bit of 'feel' I've driven it like that for years. The problem only came when going up hills and you needed to drop from 4th to 3rd quickly Quote
missingsid Posted October 4, 2009 Posted October 4, 2009 When I pulled the Series 1 gearbox out I took the transfer box off in place, then pulled the gear box. No crane needed, went back in the same way. Marc. Quote
tuko Posted October 4, 2009 Posted October 4, 2009 Few more pics: First guess would be the springs in the syncro, but there is so much of it. I'm thinking and hope that I'm wrong, that it could be the steel casing that surrounds the balls in the bearings Total strip down is in order and yes it's repairable with the operating description that you gave. Todd. Quote
sotal Posted October 4, 2009 Author Posted October 4, 2009 I've got to be honest that a total strip down scares me a little! I've not done anything like this before! I've been advised to take the bell housing off in order to replace the three detent springs on the synchro hub. Would this let me see any other potential problems or do I need to strip it further? The amount of metal there could add up to three springs Quote
ejparrott Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 I'm thinking and hope that I'm wrong, that it could be the steel casing that surrounds the balls in the bearings nope, if that happened the gearbox would be unusable I've got to be honest that a total strip down scares me a little! I've not done anything like this before! I've been advised to take the bell housing off in order to replace the three detent springs on the synchro hub. Would this let me see any other potential problems or do I need to strip it further? You'd need to do a lot more than that, taking the bellhousing off requires the removal of the cover that surrounds the input shaft, then you've got to fiddle the shafts out, and that means remving the selectors - trust me, just done it! The haynes manual gives a 99% acurate discription of the process, and in all honesty, with that amount of metal floating around, I'd be expecting to be changing all the bearings, and if they didnt need changing they should at least have a strip clean and wash out! Quote
simonb Posted October 5, 2009 Posted October 5, 2009 Yep those bits of metal are the 3/4th syncro springs. They are not like "modern" syncro springs and explains your 3rd/4th crunch. Fairly easy to strip down, Haynes manual covers it well. You will need imperial either BSF or BSW (can't remember which now) spanners can't remember the sizes but its only a couple of them. "Normal" imperial won't fit properly but Metrinch type ones will be ok. No bearing or gear teeth in your pile of scrap so its probably ok otherwise. Quote
tuko Posted October 6, 2009 Posted October 6, 2009 nope, if that happened the gearbox would be unusable Sorry m8, but I did exactly what I wrote and that's why I gave that possibility. The output pinion bearing gave up on my series 3 transmission, the steel casing holding in the bearings was well over 70% gone, well it was in piecing sitting at the bottom of my transmission with the balls still in the bearing casing. All the time the transmission was still usable. I only found out that I had this problem when I was changing the oil. Todd. Quote
ejparrott Posted October 6, 2009 Posted October 6, 2009 Yep those bits of metal are the 3/4th syncro springs. They are not like "modern" syncro springs and explains your 3rd/4th crunch. Fairly easy to strip down, Haynes manual covers it well. You will need imperial either BSF or BSW (can't remember which now) spanners can't remember the sizes but its only a couple of them. "Normal" imperial won't fit properly but Metrinch type ones will be ok. No bearing or gear teeth in your pile of scrap so its probably ok otherwise. Most nuts are BSF, few UNF's on mine too Quote
ejparrott Posted October 6, 2009 Posted October 6, 2009 Sorry m8, but I did exactly what I wrote and that's why I gave that possibility. The output pinion bearing gave up on my series 3 transmission, the steel casing holding in the bearings was well over 70% gone, well it was in piecing sitting at the bottom of my transmission with the balls still in the bearing casing. All the time the transmission was still usable. I only found out that I had this problem when I was changing the oil. Todd. Are you refering to the outer race or the cage? Quote
Phil Hancock Posted October 6, 2009 Posted October 6, 2009 Gearbox should be BSF/BSW sized spanners, anything else is a PO modification. Quote
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