white90 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Before crimping After one that came with a winch I purchased that had been crimped this method (although sounds a tad like a bodge) is very effective the pliers in the pic are then hit with a 4lb club hammer, the pliers are pretty rubbish anyway the correct method requires some expensive crimpers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Did you solder them as well ? I've got to do my cables tonight to move the solenoids to behind the headlamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 I get my bettery/winch cables crimped by a mate who takes them to work and has then done with the site sparky's rather expensive crimp tool that's calibrated and certificated to ISO or BS sommat or other to verify the quality of the crimps. Loverly proper hex crimps which are stamped with the cable diameter to show the proper sized dia was using in the crimper. Otherwise I'd use something like Tony's method and then fill the crimp with solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Before crimping I had some done by the bodge pliers method and one of the cables parted from the connector. As the terminal was out of sight, I was unaware of the problem until I had a flat battery. No charge was getting to my No.2 battery from the split charge relay connection where it had parted from. I have since bought a H/D crimper, (about £30), for some peace of mind. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 [snobby] Of course, some of us have the proper crimping tool, not some tatty old pair of rusty pliers[/snobby] Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 interesting idea you could also put the pliers (with fitting to be crimped in them) in a vice and do it that way I suppose rather than biffing it with the hammer I have always just squished them in a vice which does a pretty secure crimp, looks rough as F but won't let go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 What ones have you got Les? I have these, ahem, "borrowed" from work..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 What ones have you got Les?I have these, ahem, "borrowed" from work..... pah, I use a hydraulic one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 Well you bluddy doubters I have made 5 sets of these and all are functioning exactly as they should no soldering and no loose connectors. Any warranty claims please email me TJ101-Tangoman-Exmoorcop best check your crimped connections the rusty pliers are well past there best after this method has been employed I haven't axs to the proper hydraulic ones. doing it in a vice wouldn't have given me the same force as a good Biff with the trusty hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Well glad to know it works for you Tony. Vice would seem more suitable than a hammer but maybe if we can't use the LR special tool No 1 then we shouldn't be toying with Landies. Me, well I was quite happy to get mine done using the pukka tool by the shop I bought cable/connectors from . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 I like the idea of bashing the pliars with a hammer - that will probably grip better than one squashed in a vice. I used to just squash the connectors a bit then solder them - which works pretty well. Contrary to popular belief, solder is not that good a conductor so you need the crimp for the conductivity and the solder just to keep it there. Now I have a tool from VWP - which was relatively inexpensive and is fantastic! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 anyone wanting to check the difference of a vice over a hammer please attend my house where I have both and access to first aid equip/hospital. I'm guessing your finger that has been hit with the hammer will require more attention than the one I squash in a Vice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 anyone wanting to check the difference of a vice over a hammerplease attend my house where I have both and access to first aid equip/hospital. I'm guessing your finger that has been hit with the hammer will require more attention than the one I squash in a Vice Sort of depends on when you choose to stop winding the vice in but I can see you're point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 you volunteering the Trev? The hammer has removed suspension bushes that snapped the vice twice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Alternatively you could just get a Milemarker and not have to worry about messing around with battery cables as thick as your tow rope Coat on and heading for door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Moving swiftly on before Tony starts squishing my appendages. When are you going to fit a snorkel to that armchair of yours Steve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 I haven't got a suitable pic from the right angle, you need to find bits that match up, I was lucky in that I had a photo of the 90 at the same angle as the chair so I nicked the wheels off that, and the penguin was facing the right way, but I don't have one of the 90 with the Safari on at the right angle - maybe on the weekend. Anyway I don't want to go wading in my armchair as the cushions will go all soggy and there's nowt worse than having a wet @r%e Meanwhile I have amended it slightly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Tony, i have one of those crimpers you could always borrow! You just needed to ask! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 Well I'd just thought I'd say that after this thread was posted I thought I'd give Tonys method a try, what with me being such a sceptic Anyway out with and off cut of 40mm battery cable, a ring crimp, some old pliers, a the trusty 4lb lump hammer. I have to say I was pleasantly supprised by the results, made a decent secure crimp. However I'll be sticking to proper hex crimps, simply cos I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 I've got hydraulic crimpers which go up to 400mm' cable lugs, which should be big enough even for Will Warne's winch once he's finished it ! Seriously I've got a smaller crimper for up to 120mm I can take it to any of the AWDC/ Scrapiron series/J33p do @ 7S or Tony's Bash if anyone wants any crimped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 IMO there is a better method without the proper tools than the plier/hammer approach. what you need is a block of steel with a V cut in it and a small metal rod, an old nail or bolt cut down would do. put the connector (the part with the cable end) in the V and the pin on the other side and the whole lot in a vice, then do up the vice. The V stops the connector from splaying out, the pin deforms it to make a tight contact on the wire. I may have some photos but hopefully the explanation is enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 So find a small block of steel with a Vee in it and a Vice cuts down nail hardly better IMHO my method= pliers-hammer I have fitted these on the winch cables whilst on the car using a piece of wood on the bumper to protect the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 17, 2006 Share Posted May 17, 2006 I shall be giving this a go on sat, Tony, on my new 50 mm cable backed up with a drop of solder to stop it moving, I hope ! But first to fit my new stainless fuel tank Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted May 17, 2006 Author Share Posted May 17, 2006 50mm2 may require a larger hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 So find a small block of steel with a Vee in it and a Vice cuts down nailhardly better IMHO my method= pliers-hammer I have fitted these on the winch cables whilst on the car using a piece of wood on the bumper to protect the paint. it is about reducing the circumference of the metal tube part of the connector; I'll bet my method will reduce it more than your pliers thus producing the tighter crimp. We can have a tug of war if you want to see which method is stronger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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