Puffernutter Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 I have a 1990 County 200Tdi converted to run SVO. I have a heat exchanger fitted in line with the heater matrix and a temperature switch fitted to change to SVO when the heater reaches 65degC. Today I left early for a dog show in Wales (we got two 2nd and two 3rds ) and after 6 miles and with the temperature gauge in roughly the right position it still hadn't changed over (normally does it after 2-3 miles). I forced it across (I have a "frig switch!) and continued. On the way back it was the same. Yet when I tested the electrics at home, all is OK. Also the heater in the car wasn't as hot as usual. So, thinking back, I fitted a new rad about 14 months ago (but it wasn't used much last winter as I was in Australia on business - it's a hard life!). Is it possible it is running cold now due to the rad and will there be any harm (apart from overheating I suspect!) if I blind off part of the rad? Does anybody else blind their rads off in the winter? Cheers Peter Quote
white90 Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 Yes I did when I had the Dieselveg twin tank system. Quote
Aragorn Posted October 8, 2009 Posted October 8, 2009 The thermostat should be controlling the flow of water thru the rad, so you really shouldnt have to cover up any of it... Perhaps look at changing the stat first? Quote
Quagmire Posted October 9, 2009 Posted October 9, 2009 With a nice new rad you might be getting cooler temps, i run a rad muff in the winter but this is mainly to allow the thing to warm up quicker. I guess if the fins are that much clearer you could be getting better airflow through the engine bay and this nice cold air we have been getting could be cooling the block directly? Before i changed the 2.25 for the 3.5 the orginal 2.25 rad failed about a month before i was ready to swap engines. I therefore bought a v8 rad as a replacement. Even though the thermostat should be controlling the temp, the 2.25 ran very cool and i ended up blocking a portion of the rad with a piece of hardboard until the engine swap took place. Quote
BogMonster Posted October 9, 2009 Posted October 9, 2009 The thermostat should be controlling the flow of water thru the rad, so you really shouldnt have to cover up any of it... Perhaps look at changing the stat first? Maybe it should but anybody who has ever owned a Tdi Defender will know that there is way too much cooling and way not enough heat in the winter months especially at low speed, even with the thermostat working fine. Covering up the rad and/or taking the fan off do help a bit. Quote
Diablo Posted October 9, 2009 Posted October 9, 2009 I've got a smart veg system in mine and I use a muff in winter as otherwise it takes forever to heat up and end up using more diesel than I like. Just got to keep a good eye on the temp gauge, especially when it starts to warm up again in Feb or so. Quote
Puffernutter Posted October 25, 2009 Author Posted October 25, 2009 OK, you can all say "I told you so!" Back from China on Friday, so on Saturday I changed the thermostat. On Sunday the temperature gauge was half way (it was usually only 1/4 way up) and the changeover diesel/oil occurred with no problems. I was concerned that when I'd changed the stat I'd lost a lot of water, but the gauge stuck pretty well at half way for the whole trip. So, it looks like the stat was either opening early or sticking open when it had opened. Right, next challenge - MOT tomorrow, wish me luck! Cheers Peter Quote
CountryGent Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 Right, next challenge - MOT tomorrow, wish me luck! Cheers Peter How did the MOT go? Good news I hope? Quote
Ex Member Posted October 26, 2009 Posted October 26, 2009 IME...at least 50% of NEW thermostats leak when closed. You should always check your tstat to make sure it is leak free when closed. If there is any heat in the upper hose before it reach normal operating temperature, it is leaking. Quote
Puffernutter Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 How did the MOT go? Good news I hope? Failed! Three items (all trivial); rear anti roll bar bushes on offside (£2.50), offside front sidelight (checked before I left but a poor fuse connection - free) and leaking fuel tube (replaced from my spares - free) Took back the following day and passed. Phew! I notice you've found a tame welder. Cheers Peter Quote
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