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Posted

I've eventually got round to fitting an Iron Goat dash, that I bought some time ago, complete with Carling switches and am very pleased with the result. In the dark I now look at the nicely illuminated switches and then see the heater switches aren't! Has anyone managed to get lighting behind these? Is there a later version of the housing (mine is 1995) that has bulbs in?

It took some time, but I managed to get the on-off-on switch for my spotlights to work as I wanted i.e. the orange light to only come on when the spots were on rather than all the time. The switch works ON spots on, orange light on, Off well obvious really with orange light off, and the second ON spots on with main beam and orange light on when the spots light.

Is there a good clock that will fit where tho original one is/

Cheers

Malcolm

Posted

Use the TD5 dash clock unit. Just the plastic part and put your own clocks in it, Malcolm. You'll need some little wedge bulb holders for the bulb holes (pm me as I have lots and lots of bulb holders :) )

As far as clocks go, VDO make a nice one.

Mo

Posted

Thanks for the info, next job find a Td5 binnacle then. My local Land Rover dealer and independant are both very helpful so before long I should be able to see the controls in the dark.

Malcolm

Posted

Thanks, I've also waded through the wibbly wobbly speedo thread which has a lot of useful info. It looks like I'll be going for the Td5 dash, warning lamp panel,plugs, electric speedo etc and loads of head scratching!

I'm glad others have been there first, but don't worry, there will be stupid mistakes that no one else has managed to find I'm sure!

Malcolm

Posted

Western, that's helpful, I guess it's just a case of finding where the wires go in the new plug for the warning lamps(is there a list for that anywhere) and working my way through swapping them over, then adding a wire for the illuminated heater controls. The info for the speedo seems to be on the wibbly wobbly thread. Initially I'll probably swap my fuel/temp gauge over and then look at the Td5 ones later.

Malcolm

Posted

Western, that's helpful, I guess it's just a case of finding where the wires go in the new plug for the warning lamps(is there a list for that anywhere) and working my way through swapping them over, then adding a wire for the illuminated heater controls. The info for the speedo seems to be on the wibbly wobbly thread. Initially I'll probably swap my fuel/temp gauge over and then look at the Td5 ones later.

Malcolm

all the connector diagrams for gauges & warning lights are in that thread too.

the heater illumination just feeds from the gauge illumination wiring [uses the same wire colours as the gauges]

Posted

I've eventually got round to fitting an Iron Goat dash, that I bought some time ago, complete with Carling switches and am very pleased with the result. In the dark I now look at the nicely illuminated switches and then see the heater switches aren't! Has anyone managed to get lighting behind these? Is there a later version of the housing (mine is 1995) that has bulbs in?

It took some time, but I managed to get the on-off-on switch for my spotlights to work as I wanted i.e. the orange light to only come on when the spots were on rather than all the time. The switch works ON spots on, orange light on, Off well obvious really with orange light off, and the second ON spots on with main beam and orange light on when the spots light.

Cheers

Malcolm

How did you manage to get the switch to come on like that? i did not think it was possible - read it on a thread somewhere here from memory...?

Posted

the bulb holders are a push in & twist 90degree fit. similar to the bulb holders on the pre td5 dash warning light panels.

in the oval shaped holes where I've marked on your photo.

post-20-125614797665_thumb.jpg

Posted

Rick 111s,

Like you I read it on a thread that got fairly heated and ozzie1989 set me on the right track. You have to take one lead of the orange led from it's original contact, make a new one and then make a new connection inside the switch. It's a bit fiddly and difficult to summarize but if you pm me I'll try and explain how I did it - it does work and the switch looks unaltered except for 1 small hole in the side, but that's hidden when you mount it.

I've no idea of the theory etc but it works on my set up for spots which I believe is as per normal wiring diagrams, with a relay and wired into the main beam circuit.

Malcolm

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