istruggle2gate11 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 The RR build is getting too many options, kinda broke a few cars down to get all the good bits. Combine the breakers parts with my spares bin and I have many options! The car will be fitted with a blue print 4.0, twin arbs on 35" tyres. I am ultimately heading for reliability, but a small comprimise could be made for performance gains. The LT95 is bomb proof and gives good gearing, the LT77 could be weak?, the Autos attract me, esp on BW. I know a lot of the challenge boys are going auto more and more. Car will be a toy more than a long distance traveller. Whats your thoughts please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 The RR build is getting too many options, kinda broke a few cars down to get all the good bits.Combine the breakers parts with my spares bin and I have many options! The car will be fitted with a blue print 4.0, twin arbs on 35" tyres. I am ultimately heading for reliability, but a small comprimise could be made for performance gains. The LT95 is bomb proof and gives good gearing, the LT77 could be weak?, the Autos attract me, esp on BW. I know a lot of the challenge boys are going auto more and more. Car will be a toy more than a long distance traveller. Whats your thoughts please? I run the auto BW and am very happy as it is idiot prof but there a little less reliable than the others. my second choice would be R380 or LT95. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 I voted for ZF + LT230, mainly cos I've little experince with a BW and think I'd prefer the LT230. Second choice would be the LT95, actually it would be LT85 but that's not on the list of options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Where is the R380 option? Al. Ok - edit to say I just re-read it and missed the 'parts bin bit' the first time. But if your aim is reliability, it's stronger than the LT77... Maybe you could flog the other boxes and pay for one like that? I dunno... I like manual, but that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 6, 2006 Author Share Posted April 6, 2006 Where is the R380 option? I must admit to being in a bit of a quandry here, I dont have an R380 to hand as mentioned and dont really know of second hand values, and part of me thinks that if I do go manual then its the LT95 purely because of strength, and with a good ratio 1st and the overdrive makes the top difference very negligable. I suppose the R380 will have a more supported lifespan than the LT95 or LT77, it could be an option. Ive never driven off road in an Auto, but keep being informed its the way to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Ive never driven off road in an Auto, but keep being informed its the way to go! Without a doubt; I love mine. BTW, Jules' 90 climbs better than most I've seen. Could this be down to the BW??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Without a doubt; I love mine. BTW, Jules' 90 climbs better than most I've seen. Could this be down to the BW??? So well it back flips better than most too allegedly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 I know its parts bin, but aren't the two LT230's the wrong ratio for 35's even with a warm 4.0 in front of them ? You'll be geared for 130mph !! But will run out of puff on the hills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 My mate Mike has V8 with 4spd auto and a 1.2 Lt230, 3.54 diffs on 35's way overgeared he is changing the transfer box for a 1.4 as on the road he has to drive around in 3rd and rarley uses Drive at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomG Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 I voted for ZF 4sp Auto + LT230 (1.003:1) X 1 I think the gearing will be way too high if you're running 3.51 ring & pinion but just about right if you change to 4.75:1 R&P or... portals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Where is the R380 option?Al. Ok - edit to say I just re-read it and missed the 'parts bin bit' the first time. But if your aim is reliability, it's stronger than the LT77... Maybe you could flog the other boxes and pay for one like that? I dunno... I like manual, but that's just me. One problem would be finding a v8 r380, they are a bit thin on the ground. R380 isn't really that good a 'box, more of a lt77 with reasonable gear selection. If it had to be manual it'd be the lt95, Lovely strong box with low first gear. My vote went on zf-bw dead simple, strong enough, easlily obtainable. And when you do break the zf there are more than a few companys out there upgrading them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 7, 2006 Author Share Posted April 7, 2006 Without a doubt; I love mine. BTW, Jules' 90 climbs better than most I've seen. Could this be down to the BW??? Its looking like the zf + BW then. Quite happy with that majority vote, worst case I can swop the BW for the LT230. (must start saving for new clutch packs!) I do run an LT77s with BW on my series 1 now and thats been great, had some real abuse and still (seems) all ok. Not even seized on! So, ZF + BW + X brake me thinks, Simon, got your discount head on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FITZ Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I got a good ZF box witkout the transfer box cheap as chips £100 collect Basingstoke. Just for the record, I prefer the ZF with LT230 transfer box. I'm not happy that the wheel has to spin before the BW does it's stuff. Either way I prefer the ZF auto over the manuals or the 3 speed auto. If your intrested in the ZF box give me a call next week Mon-Fri 8am -5pm 07774277601 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 if you go for a ZF then check the suffix number and get a later box, keeping it cool is something to plan for, laminova or my preferred B&C/Spall combo will stop the plates from cooking too much, temp gauge also a good move Having said that Ive gone back to a manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I know its parts bin, but aren't the two LT230's the wrong ratio for 35's even with a warm 4.0 in front of them ?You'll be geared for 130mph !! But will run out of puff on the hills. The BW is the same I had problems before I fitted the 4.7 R&P the car will now cruse at 80mph will do 95mph with ease keeping it in strait line however is a different matter Low is fantastic and it does everything for you so you never need to let go of the steering wheel. As Will said very little will out climb my 90 (until I rolled it ) You will need to brake going down hill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 You will need to brake going down hill [smug] I don't [/smug] Jez, why manual????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 [smug] I don't [/smug]Jez, why manual????????? Ok If your feeling brave you don't need to brake on kin steep drop off's the auto will slow you down. I know the TGV has enough engine braking to stop the planet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat Nev Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I use a ZF and BW in my Tomcat and used the same in my Hybrid for 12 years. It needs cooling though LOTS. I use a 101 engine oil cooler for my gearbox and now even on the hottest race it only just climbs up to normal. Nev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Jez, why manual????????? bush fixability and speed of shifting, not so many issues with temperature management and its shorter box/belhousing combo, Ive had to squeeze a lot into a short space and shift the motor down and back to improve the CofG but I think it'll shape up ok Im trying to work out just how much to cut off the front now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 bush fixability and speed of shifting, not so many issues with temperature management and its shorter box/belhousing combo, Ive had to squeeze a lot into a short space and shift the motor down and back to improve the CofG but I think it'll shape up ok Im trying to work out just how much to cut off the front now I days of old we ran the LT95 with a 101 bell housing to move the engine back and stop the racer nose diving and improve the handling and it did work. we did not have at the time the expertise to move the gearbox and lengthen and shorten props on a 88" racer so the bell housing was the easy route. It worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 were you running an 8 in that Jules? Ive shifted about 14cms back so everything is well inboard of the axles and down about 4cms, this thing wont be flying at speed though but I want it to balance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 were you running an 8 in that Jules? Ive shifted about 14cms back so everything is well inboard of the axles and down about 4cms, this thing wont be flying at speed though but I want it to balance Yes V8 Working from memory 101 bell housing takes the engine back about 6-8"(150-200mm) closer to the gear box on a Lt95. gives a massive improvement of balance. It slams the rockers right up against the bulk head. It's about half the size if not less than the original RR Lt95 bell housing we didn't bother lowering the engine but the V8 sits quit low in the engine bay anyway. I have seen RR racers that have the engine so far back that the rockers are sat were the heater would be. 18" back into the car don't ask me how there rear prop couped with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 In a 100" RR you can move the engine/box back by 10-11" and just swap the front/rear props over, it's a common mod. Mate done this in his 100" hybrid racer many years ago and it's much more balanced on the ground and in the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 mines sat in an 88, another few inches and the engines in the boot rocker box makes a handy cup holder though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 7, 2006 Author Share Posted April 7, 2006 if you go for a ZF then check the suffix number and get a later box, keeping it cool is something to plan for, laminova or my preferred B&C/Spall combo will stop the plates from cooking too much, temp gauge also a good move Whats the typical opp temp ? Can you explain the "preferred B&C/Spall combo" - sorry mate - being dumb here! I got a good ZF box witkout the transfer box cheap as chips £100 collect Basingstoke. Cheers fitz, but as mentioned, got a few known good ZF boxes ( on recount, 4 to be exact!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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