istruggle2gate11 Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 Whats the typical opp temp ?Can you explain the "preferred B&C/Spall combo" - sorry mate - being dumb here! Calling DOLLY ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 sorry - sleep depravation B&C plate cooler with a spall fan on the back about 12x 8" overall and with the fan on the back its about 4" deep, comes with a thermostatic switch preset to 78 degrees (dont hold me to that but I'll try and find the paperwork and confirm it for you) I wired it back to a light in the cab to tell me when the fan was running, temp guage is best as its easier to keep a track of how hard you are working the box before it starts getting that fishy (expensive) smell to it Im sure its just me being a luddite or paranoid (or both) but if I crack a oil to air cooler then I can fix it with putty and top up the level, if a oil/water cooler fails then its gonna get a bit nasty and worse still possibly do so without me noticing until its a bit late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 ZF + LT230 or R380 + LT230 (why not on the list?) The Borg warner T-case is carp and the LT77 is weak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 sorry - sleep depravation B&C plate cooler with a spall fan on the back about 12x 8" overall and with the fan on the back its about 4" deep, comes with a thermostatic switch preset to 78 degrees (dont hold me to that but I'll try and find the paperwork and confirm it for you) I wired it back to a light in the cab to tell me when the fan was running, temp guage is best as its easier to keep a track of how hard you are working the box before it starts getting that fishy (expensive) smell to it Im sure its just me being a luddite or paranoid (or both) but if I crack a oil to air cooler then I can fix it with putty and top up the level, if a oil/water cooler fails then its gonna get a bit nasty and worse still possibly do so without me noticing until its a bit late. Cheers mate, temp gauge will be fitted following your advice - ask DD - Im the ultimate mr paranoia! Cant handle a drop of an oil leak - but I smoke 20 a day - go figure! R380 + LT230 (why not on the list?) see ^^^^^ I dont have one in my spares bin, so not an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 The Borg warner T-case is carp. What makes you think the Borg warner T-case is carp??? personal experiance?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 What makes you think the Borg warner T-case is carp???personal experiance?? OK, I will rephrase that, they are OK if you never want to drive offroad, but apart from that they are carp - a proer locking centre diff beats a viscous coupling any day. A mate of mine had one in his rangie, and when we were offroading, every time he came to a hill on the first few attempts he would stop with one front wheel spinning. After a few attempts the viscous coupling would finally lock up and he would drive up the hill without a problem. Other people I know with BW cases have had similar experiences. Why bother with the BW case when the LT230 is stronger, more durable and more reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 No worries Rog - I can recommend Hungarian import Gauloises, full of vitamins and nutrition, I figured I should make an effort to train as my navigator is out running everyday so Ive laid off the Romanian Marlboro and gone for the healthy option a friend who trials loves BW boxes and wouldnt have any other, I personally like to have the choice of what the box is doing but I think a lot of it comes to what floats ya boat and what you use the car for, tight nasty short stuff then auto/bw would give you less piddling around with levers and spare hand to smoke fags or lob stuff at ramblers/winch bitches/convertables (gotta be a valid consideration?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 OK, I will rephrase that, they are OK if you never want to drive offroad, but apart from that they are carp - a proer locking centre diff beats a viscous coupling any day. A mate of mine had one in his rangie, and when we were offroading, every time he came to a hill on the first few attempts he would stop with one front wheel spinning. After a few attempts the viscous coupling would finally lock up and he would drive up the hill without a problem. Other people I know with BW cases have had similar experiences.Why bother with the BW case when the LT230 is stronger, more durable and more reliable. I have never suffered from this problem. The viscos saves other parts in the drive train IMO. I jack up my truck and the wheel lifted is instantly locked by the viscos I don't understand the spin a few times, thats the traction control you getting mixed up with. If its so carp how come all Disco's, Range Rovers and Freelanders are now fitted with them. My challange truck never suffered through having a Viscos I've driven hill that others have needed to winch. I will admit it is not as strong as the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 I would go for a ZF + LT230, however you need a 1.41 or 1.6 :1 because of the gearing. I swapped my 1.1:1 for a 1.4:1 with the same setup - but wish I'd gone for a 1.6:1 now as 1.4 is still a bit over-geared. Low ratio is a bit high as well - but not too bad. Regards, Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 OK, I will rephrase that, they are OK if you never want to drive offroad, but apart from that they are carp - a proer locking centre diff beats a viscous coupling any day. A mate of mine had one in his rangie, and when we were offroading, every time he came to a hill on the first few attempts he would stop with one front wheel spinning. After a few attempts the viscous coupling would finally lock up and he would drive up the hill without a problem. Other people I know with BW cases have had similar experiences.Why bother with the BW case when the LT230 is stronger, more durable and more reliable. I think that there is some thing wrong with your mates transfer box. mine locks up almost instantly, and has helped my turning circle off road no end. I've worked on more than a few rangies with them in and i've never come across one that takes more than a quarter of a wheel rotation to lock up. the lt230 is no stronger than the BW, in fact the center diff in the lt230 is a known weak spot, they also suffer with bearing failure. The only failing of the BW are VC's siezing, and you carn't get pto's, underdrives and lower gears for them. As for more reliable, how many lt230's have been pulled out because they whine, leak or clunk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 My challange truck never suffered through having a Viscos I've driven hill that others have needed to winch. Slindon video of you winching up that slope a couple of years ago springs to mind... very impressive ... no sign of any viscous slipping problems there!!! Freelander viscous units are the same, when working properly there is no detectable slip before it cuts in. Awesome on ice with the ETC as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat Nev Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 I race with a BW transfer box. My old Hybrid had one too. I went to the BW because of its huge advantage of locking instantly and doing it without my having to remember! Chains slip and diffs sieze. Nev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 I think that there is some thing wrong with your mates transfer box. mine locks up almost instantly, and has helped my turning circle off road no end.I've worked on more than a few rangies with them in and i've never come across one that takes more than a quarter of a wheel rotation to lock up. the lt230 is no stronger than the BW, in fact the center diff in the lt230 is a known weak spot, they also suffer with bearing failure. The only failing of the BW are VC's siezing, and you carn't get pto's, underdrives and lower gears for them. As for more reliable, how many lt230's have been pulled out because they whine, leak or clunk? I've seen a few in OZ that were in similar condition to my mates - sure they were all probably worn, but a similar age and condition LT230 would still work fine. As for LT230's being weak - the only possible common problem I have heard of them having is the centre diff, and that is easily fixed by a Macnamara one-piece cross-shaft conversion - a total cost of about 50 quid. Most of the rockcrawling comp buggies over in OZ run LT230s, almost always behind 4L V8's with 37-39" wheels, and they do front digs with them - on rock!!! Front digs refer to holding the handbrake on and dropping the clutch - the vehicle spins around on its back wheels (you end up with a much better turning circle than a BW gives you). I doubt a BW T-case could hold up to that kind of abuse. I agree that the actual planetary reduction drive must be fairly strong, because AFAIK it is/was used in Ashcroft underdrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 to be honest Im impressed an LT230 would survive that, I know a twin stick NP205 will do it, or a Gaz66 but never figured an open diff would do anything other than go pop, got any details of the Jac Mac diff mod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 to be honest Im impressed an LT230 would survive that, I know a twin stick NP205 will do it, or a Gaz66 but never figured an open diff would do anything other than go pop, got any details of the Jac Mac diff mod? It seems to hold up really well to front digs, there are plenty of videos on the outerlimits site, and some of them show front digs. As for the Jacmac one-piece cross shaft: Anyways, Michael is right, Cross shaft from JM is GREAT. Their website is http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/ & I recall it being 165 AUST $. This is the peice: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...pic.php?t=37212 Wouldn't you be able to do front digs with other full time 4wd t/cases that have manual centre diff lock? Not that I have much knowledge of non-rover stuff. Absolutly. Any T case with a manually activated centre diff lock has the capability of Front Digging. As long as the hand brake works well. Wether the other Transfers can handle it for long i dont know. The LT230s seam to be coping well so far. I have done a few good FWD Burns as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 picture no worky!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 picture no worky!!!! Try this link then: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...ad.php?id=13147 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 It seems to hold up really well to front digs, there are plenty of videos on the outerlimits site, and some of them show front digs.As for the Jacmac one-piece cross shaft: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...pic.php?t=37212 Absolutely. Any T case with a manually activated centre diff lock has the capability of Front Digging. As long as the hand brake works well. Weather the other Transfers can handle it for long i don't know. The LT230s seam to be coping well so far. I have done a few good FWD Burns as well. I would never have thought that was a LT230 I don't do much rock crawling in the uk so I don't have the need for that facility I will stick to racing and challenging. I was under the impression that no standard landy stuff was strong enough for rack crawling The hand brake normally snaps off the housing on Range Rovers and Discovery's when half wit MOT inspectors pull the hand brake up while driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuzurover Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Have a look at this video: http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/antt/ajt.wmv almost all the buggies are running LT230s, and most have rover V8s and ZF autos. No front digs on this one, but you see how the drivetrain gets abused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 11, 2006 Author Share Posted April 11, 2006 then auto/bw would give you less piddling around with levers and spare hand to smoke fags or lob stuff at ramblers/winch bitches/convertables (gotta be a valid consideration?) - true Sourcing cooling parts and temp gauge as we speak. I also use a BW in a trialler and its not let me down, as DD says, when mine is up on the jacks, the lock up between front and rear must be within 1/8th of a turn (this is fitted to an LT77). So Im down to ZF+BW or ZF+LT230 - Props could be the decision maker here, I have 2 X LT230 sets and no sets for the BW (although my heart still lies with the BW). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 got any details of the Jac Mac diff mod? Looks V simerlar to the Ashcrofts single peice shaft. That's what I use but I've still managed to blow one centre diff since going auto. Not totally sure how it happened but i think it may have been due to the age of the gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted April 11, 2006 Author Share Posted April 11, 2006 Have a look at this video:http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/albums/antt/ajt.wmv almost all the buggies are running LT230s, and most have rover V8s and ZF autos. No front digs on this one, but you see how the drivetrain gets abused. Thats an impressive amount of abuse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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