cw01 Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 ARGHH I am having a complete nightmares wiring up some WOLF/NAS spec lights to my old 110. I am completely useless as a mechanic, but am even more useless at having spare money, so I have to do it myself. First ( of many ) problems is my indicaters work with the new lights, but only on the hazard switch, not with the indicater switch?, Any ideas why. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 wire colours are the same, check the outer connection in the bulb holder is the earth. are these LED lights or have you reused the standard 21 watt single filament bulbs ? if LED they need a resistor to tell the flasher unit the current load [amps] is the same as the standard bulbs. otherwise recheck the connections with a multimeter or get a mate whose good with electrics to do it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 wire colours are the same, check the outer connection in the bulb holder is the earth. are these LED lights or have you reused the standard 21 watt single filament bulbs ? if LED they need a resistor to tell the flasher unit the current load [amps] is the same as the standard bulbs. otherwise recheck the connections with a multimeter or get a mate whose good with electrics to do it for you. This may not be it, but when I had a similar problem with my indicators it turned out to be a poor connection behind the fuse and a bit of jiggling sorted it. I have a new blade fuse box to fit at some point. When I get the rest of the jobs done (at home, on other cars, or when I am at home) - this is being typed from an apartment in Beijing! Otherwiswe as said above, the flasher relay needs current to operate and LED lights don't take enough current. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cw01 Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Problems, problems, problems. The lights are all 24v units with the bulbs replaced to 12v, no LED. I knew this wasn't going to be a simple fix, but this is only the begining. The lights all worked before I cut wires?. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Problems, problems, problems. The lights are all 24v units with the bulbs replaced to 12v, no LED. I knew this wasn't going to be a simple fix, but this is only the begining. The lights all worked before I cut wires?. Chris. Is the 110 12v or 24v? (your sig says FFR, but you mention 12v bulbs) What voltage is the flasher unit in the fuse compartment? (it will say on the top). I think it might be a 24v one ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cw01 Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 The Rover is a 12v ffr model, I have only tried to change all the lights from bug eye type to NAS type ( the NAS ones were from a WOLF vehicle so they were all 24v bulbs). the lights all worked before. I have not yet wired up the front lights, would this make a difference. Also the headlights are not working correct. one dim and one normal?????? Pulling my hair out now. and trying to do it on your own doesn't help either. Cheers again, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Hi your dim front light is a bad earth connection on that side, and the indicators will only work properly when both front and rear are connected.The single indicator should light up either all the time or flash very quickly tho. also worth a thought , is your battery at 12v +? hth cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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