dudley Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Were talking 1998 model 300TDi Defender 90 with air con. If I had not already bought a Kenlow fan before reading threads about them on here I probably would not be fitting one, but after a front end accident it was decided to go down electric fan route while the Defender was all stripped down under repair. So without stirring up a hornets nest about Viscous V Electric and Kenlow V Mondeo fans etc can I ask the following? 1) Is there an ignition controlled fused supply somewhere in the engine bay for the fan controller yellow wire? I am wiring the red live supply to the alternator. 2) If not and I have to get into the dash for a fused supply, ie for the radio, it means coming in through the bulkhead somewhere, and I did not really want to start removing fascia or dash panels unless I really have to. My air con makes it all a little more tricky under the dashboard as well. I am sure those of you who have removed dash panels and trim before will say it is a simple process to bring a tiny cable in through bulkhead from the engine bay, but I do not know where to start removing plastic trim, with this sort of thing I usually end up taking the whole lot out as I find you cant get that out without undoing that, and you cant get to that without pulling that out etc. So what is the easiest route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Is there an ignition controlled fused supply somewhere in the engine bay for the fan controller yellow wire? I am wiring the red live supply to the alternator. Unless things have changed, the ignition circuit isn't fused anywhere . Your best bet would be to take a feed off the fuel cut-off solenoid (white wire) which connects a connector on the fuel injector pump to a big multi-way plug up at the bulkhead. Ths line is only live when the ignition is on. It's worth noting that the big fat brown wires from the alternator also go through this multiplug on their way to the dash, which might be a more convenient point to take the feed from? I'd advise putting a fuse in the supply to the fan, if only to stop the motor burning out if the fan is stalled (they take anything up to 30A). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Were talking 1998 model 300TDi Defender 90 with air con. If I had not already bought a Kenlow fan before reading threads about them on here I probably would not be fitting one, but after a front end accident it was decided to go down electric fan route while the Defender was all stripped down under repair. So without stirring up a hornets nest about Viscous V Electric and Kenlow V Mondeo fans etc can I ask the following? 1) Is there an ignition controlled fused supply somewhere in the engine bay for the fan controller yellow wire? I am wiring the red live supply to the alternator. 2) If not and I have to get into the dash for a fused supply, ie for the radio, it means coming in through the bulkhead somewhere, and I did not really want to start removing fascia or dash panels unless I really have to. My air con makes it all a little more tricky under the dashboard as well. I am sure those of you who have removed dash panels and trim before will say it is a simple process to bring a tiny cable in through bulkhead from the engine bay, but I do not know where to start removing plastic trim, with this sort of thing I usually end up taking the whole lot out as I find you cant get that out without undoing that, and you cant get to that without pulling that out etc. So what is the easiest route? I'd advise you to use arelay to power the fan. As Errol says, thay can draw very high currents, not what you want going through your ignition switch. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudley Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Unless things have changed, the ignition circuit isn't fused anywhere . Your best bet would be to take a feed off the fuel cut-off solenoid (white wire) which connects a connector on the fuel injector pump to a big multi-way plug up at the bulkhead. Ths line is only live when the ignition is on. It's worth noting that the big fat brown wires from the alternator also go through this multiplug on their way to the dash, which might be a more convenient point to take the feed from? I'd advise putting a fuse in the supply to the fan, if only to stop the motor burning out if the fan is stalled (they take anything up to 30A). I will have a look at your suggestion of the fuel cut off solenoid tomorrow. Point taken about the fan requiring up to 30A. However the Kenlowe kit is complete with pre wired harness with 30A fuses and relays. The wiring diagram is simple but it is finding where to run the cables is my problem. Kenlowe wiring diag says take the large red 30A fused supply cables (two of them, in event you run two fans) directly to battery. Not convenient on Defender so they are going to my alternator. But it is this small yellow cable that is the prob. The wiring diag tells me to connect it to a... +VE IGNITION CONTROLLED FUSED SUPPLY... I think, all this does is tell the controller when the ignition is on, so the fan stops when ignition is off. so I was thinking either radio, clock or temp guage or something? Kenlowe say, they wire it that way so if the vehicle is left in a hot sun spot the fan will not come on when unattended if the rad gets hot, DERH.... But I prefer to keep it all in engine bay, so with what I have now said do you think your fuel cut off idea is still ok? Thanks Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 I used the cigar lighter feed for my ignition-switched feed. The supply, I took along the chassis in some conduit, and into the battery box. Very easy to do Although I have now moved it to my aux fusebox, but the route is similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 The white wires that supply the fusebox are ignition lives. To fuse it, add an inline fuse to the spur you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 the plain green wires are ignition controlled as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudley Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Thanks guys, I think with all that help I will get it done in the morning. Regards Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Definitely fuse and relay! My Kenlowe switches on with a "crack" like lightning when it starts- god knows what current it draws in that split second it is stationary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Doesn't blow the 30A fuse in my circuit, but then the actual fusing rating of that fuse will be something like 60A. Affects the voltmeter a bit though, I can tell it's on by the reading dropping on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petethepilot Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Hi! I have connected the fan controller (wrongly, I do know) direct from the battery via fuse. The fan runs 2-3 short runs after almost every engine shutdown (depending of the ambient temperature). It doesn´t seem to take that much power that causes any problems for battery, considering startup. So maybe you should consider that. The main reason for me wanting to connect it like that was that I get steady cooling after engine shutdown, like all modern cars have these days. I believe it relieves the engine a bit of the stress of uneven heat distribution inside engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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