Jump to content

Challenge truck radius arms


HighlandRover

Recommended Posts

Hi

Im about to build a challenge truck with a 3" lift and am at the stage of ordering all of the essentials.

My question is, What radius arms do people recommend? I could go for the obvious QT 3 degree castor corrected arms but I have heard a few people with bad things to say about these such as not being strong enough and poor fabrication? Would appreciate everyones thoughts on the subject.

Also I have the gywn lewis challenge suspension kit, will 3 degrees of castor corrected-ness be sufficient?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's *just* a challenge truck, why bother with caster correction?

When I say challenge truck I also meant to say daily drive aswell ( until I break it that is :) )

Is there no need for castor correction on a challenge truck?

Sorry if its a stupid question but its my first build so there will be a few more to follow I think :wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not answering your question :rolleyes:, but why the 3" lift?

I would stick with genuine arms and live with the castor issue or speak to Gwyn Lewis and get some genuine ones adjusted to suit your intended lift.

Yeh I know, 3" isn't ideal but I aquired the springs and propshafts on the cheap so due to a limited budget im just gonna stick with them for the time being!

I take it Gwyn Lewis still adjusts your arms? Any ruff guesses what he charges for the service?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No such thing as a stupid question :rolleyes:

I used to use my challenge truck as a daily drive, 2" lift with 35" Simex. I didnt bother with castor corrected arms and never missed them. In general most people I know have found that they caused more problems than they solved.

As others have said you cant beat the genuine article. They are alot stronger than after market items.

Trailing arms yes, they should be cranked to take the strain off the chassis bushes. Buy good quality items, I use Gwyn Lewis, and they are pretty much indestructible!

Rich.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No such thing as a stupid question :rolleyes:

I used to use my challenge truck as a daily drive, 2" lift with 35" Simex. I didnt bother with castor corrected arms and never missed them. In general most people I know have found that they caused more problems than they solved.

As others have said you cant beat the genuine article. They are alot stronger than after market items.

Trailing arms yes, they should be cranked to take the strain off the chassis bushes. Buy good quality items, I use Gwyn Lewis, and they are pretty much indestructible!

Rich.

I got my trailing arms sorted, also went for the Gwyn Lewis arms. Seem to be fairly solid!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you sure your springs are +3" gwyns kit (as fitted to my truck) is only +2"

im using standard arms with no problems at all , still on original bushes 2 years on .

alternatvly Gwyn can ''bend'' your original arms to add castor correction , much stronger option .

p.s make sure you use genuine trailing arm chassis bushes or you will be for ever replacing the dam things

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you sure your springs are +3" gwyns kit (as fitted to my truck) is only +2"

im using standard arms with no problems at all , still on original bushes 2 years on .

alternatvly Gwyn can ''bend'' your original arms to add castor correction , much stronger option .

p.s make sure you use genuine trailing arm chassis bushes or you will be for ever replacing the dam things

Yeh the springs are +3", I got them before I bought the rest of the Gwyn Lewis kit.

I'll maybe give Gwyn Lewis a call when I return to the UK about bending the arms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll maybe give Gwyn Lewis a call when I return to the UK about bending the arms.

pretty sure he does an exchange , for arms so you dont havr to be with out them , try parcels 2 go if you need to send your arms back to him , usally good prices and not to bad service

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why would you bend the arms rather than re-indexing the swivel balls to correct the castor?

Because it`s cheaper to have the wrong pinion angle, have more vibration and replace UJ's/propshafts more often!!!!!!!!!!!!

Must be the right way to do it, as everyone else does it?????????????????????

;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

anyone know how he bends them? i guess heat them up first then bend to required angle, if so does this affect there strength?

I have put S bends and banana shapes into standard front radius arms just by hitting trees, so I can't see how adding bends is a good idea :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have put S bends and banana shapes into standard front radius arms just by hitting trees, so I can't see how adding bends is a good idea :)

exactly, i can see how relieving stress on the chassis bushes is a good idea but im not so sure bending a std radius arm is the best way to go about it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy