JCB59 Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Hi, I've noticed that some Defenders i've seen have all the underside painted black. What do you use to paint the underside of your Defender? What do you need to do first i.e. do you need to prime it etc? Or is it a case of giving it a good jet wash leaving it dry and then applying the substance, whatever it is? Could someone let me know what i should get for the job and any tips for applying it. Again all advice is very much appreciated. Cheers James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 I've been really pleased with Tetrosyl (I think??) underseal with added waxoil (halfords sell it as well as other places). Been using it for the last five years and I still have a rust free chassis on a 23 year old car. Goes on very quick with a brush, and pretty much dries after a day or so, so you don't always get covered in gunk when you're working underneath. it only costs about a fiver for a tin as well which will easily do a full chassis. I just use a thin coat every year and it goes on really nice and looks good. Get all the mud sticks and roadkill off the chassis first - don't just jetwash, get right under there and clean it out by hand to make sure you get all the deposits of caked in cr*p out - then give it a day to dry out properly. If you have rust, remove it first with a wire cup brush in a drill or grinder and prime it. Do this every year and you should keep the rot at bay. I've also been using some Tetrosyl spray on black all in one metal primer/paint - comes in spray tins and seems like a good alternative to Smoothrite but half the price - used it on the rangie chassis last week and it seems like good stuff, but time will tell if it works or not. I'm still going to go over it with my brush on underseal to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I used Dinitrol. Easy to use and impressed with it's durability so far.. applying dinitrol - defender 90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwood Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I used Dinitrol. Easy to use and impressed with it's durability so far.. applying dinitrol - defender 90 I have used Waxiol in the past and it dosnt seem to stick for long. My father swore by Supertrol rustproofing. As this is a simalar product to Dinitrol I am switching to that next year. I usualy pressure wash my Disco underneath first and then go over it with an air blow gun. The compresor at workk is unregulated at certain places so any loose muck or old underseal soon shifts. I have acsess to a shultz gun and an injection gun so I will get four cans of 3125 cavity and four of 4941 underbody. Will Dinatrol sray straight from the can, Waxiol needs to be warm and slightly diluted to spray easly. Rustbuster is in the same county as me so I may as well go and collect in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrat Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I use POR-15 on the outside of the chassis and uderside of the body panels. It looks the business and lasts really well. The only possible downside with it is it takes a while to come off your skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Will Dinatrol sray straight from the can, Waxiol needs to be warm and slightly diluted to spray easly. Rustbuster is in the same county as me so I may as well go and collect in person. It worked for me. I just kept cans inside overnight and sprayed straight from can ok with no blockages throughout. If doing it in winter, I'd probably stand cans in bucket of warm water prior to use to keep their temp up, while using other can/s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobyone Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 you know, i know people wh owned rangie classics, they used a mix of old engine oil sa it was free, and grease warmed slightly with a right good stir and put in the holes of the chassis. obviously you need to tape up the under and side holes, but then you just put it in drive around with a view to accelerate lots and brake lots to swill it about then remove the tape from underneath one bit at a time to catch the carp as it comes out. rust proofing the outside is all well and good, but the inside of the chassis is allways where the rust starts. i don't really think this way is the best way to do it, but you have to admit it is virtually cost neutral. another way would be to spray in waxoyl or the like into the holes too. either way, you must consider the next time you need to weld the whole chassis will be flamable even if you only treat the outside and underneath of your vehicle. food for thought for you regards richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostumpy Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Hot thin old engine oil, every time I change the oil I slop a load on, One side one time, the other side next time, gets too messy doing both side at once whilst lying on the floor. (OH! did I really say that!, dont tell the greenies!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 If you do a forum search for words such as rust, corrosion, Waxoyl (or variations of that spelling) or any of the other products you should turn up a lot of info as this is a subject that has been covered many times before. As I've said in some of the other threads when it gets mentioned it's been years since I used old oil. The stuff is thought to be a potential carcinogenic, rots some rubbers, if washed off damages the environment as well as being a potential hazard to other road users. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 i know a bloke who uses denso paste then covers it with denso works well ubt i would think is a pain to apply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I can't believe there's no votes for good ol' hammerite yet... It seems to stick farily well, keeps the nastyness out, doesn't mind being steam cleaned, welded or having fuel spilt on it. Yes, you need to re-do it every couple of years, but it gets my vote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCB59 Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Thanks again everyone for the good advice i will take it on board. I really appreaciate your patience and the time you are taking to educate a novice like me. Cheers James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob110 Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I used Por 15 on mine, sticks like the brown stuff to a blanket. top tip, buy the proper thinners as nothing else shifts it off your skin. you can get it from frost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob110 Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 oh and it sticks best to slightly rusty surfaces and will with stand a industrial jet wash 5mm away, im well pleased with it, just wear old clothes, gloves and a visor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCB59 Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Rob, How much do i need just been on the Frost web site? James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob110 Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 I went for the U.S Quart, i did put it on axles aswell and i found i started to run out right towards the end when i got the the dumb irons (i started at the back) but i didnt thin it down that much so i would say just get a big tin and use it for other stuff. better than running out. It dont stick that well to existing paint or shiny metal so have a look at the primer they do for those areas. The way i look at it is, its not the cost of the paint its the time and hassle to do it, so if your going to do it, then do it right with the best stuff, buy the bigger tin and wollop it on. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCB59 Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 Thanks Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSG Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Before n After? Not used it myself mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Before n After? Not used it myself mind Oh No. Here we go again........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Oh No. Here we go again........ [mod hat on] Oh no we're not. There is plenty of existing information regarding this already, there is therefore no need whatsoever to cover the same ground again. [/mod hat off] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 [mod hat on] Oh no we're not. There is plenty of existing information regarding this already, there is therefore no need whatsoever to cover the same ground again. [/mod hat off] I was waiting for you to pop up! Seriously though, waxoyl, is a readily available, fairly cheap, seemingly effective way of treating the chassis. And, you can easily do it yourself (no need to pay anyone...). I'm woring my way up my chassis with it - i just have some welding to do under the gearbox crossmember, so have only done the rear portion on the 110 behind the rear springs. It is very flammable, so make sure you do any remidial chassis work before spraying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 I'm sure Tont Cordell (White90) tried and used POR15 on his 90, and... if me memory serves was not 'overly impressed' longer term with it He may well be along soon ....to either correct me ....or tell more Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Hot thin old engine oil, every time I change the oil I slop a load on, One side one time, the other side next time, gets too messy doing both side at once whilst lying on the floor. (OH! did I really say that!, dont tell the greenies!) I really hope you're joking....I really do hope you are... There was a man up north years ago thought it would be a good idea to fill his chassis with old engine oil and drive around for a bit with the holes all blocked up. Then he took all the plugs out and drained the oil. Some days later when it rained, a biker came across the oil and was killed....the police follwed the rainbow all the way back to the guys house...he was done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Just to add. What ever you go for, the underneath of the vehicle needs to be as clean as possible rust, oil, mud and flaky stuff free. I used to use Waxoyl but it never really cures hard goes light brown after a day offroadig and dirt will not wash off. I have found stone chip better it drys and it can be overpainted. All that said its hard work with a brush, a compressor and spray attachment is useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyalbers Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I've had good results using warm linseed oil with some siccative and a small amount of black iron oxide(makes it easier to see where you have applied the oil). I put it in a pump-up garden sprayer, which sits in hot water(80 deg C). Then I just spray it on. For the inside of the chassis I use the same stuff, but with an undercoating gun and a thin hose. It's very environmentally friendly(you can cook your food in the oil if you want -but don't add any iron oxide or siccative ). It hardens in a few days and becomes very strong. Best applied in the summertime. Lasts for years, but I usually check it every summer. /tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.