I 'need' a R/R P38 4.6

[Logic]

I don't know where you are getting your motor from, but are you certain it's going to be good?

Reports say that recalibrating a worn motor isn't a guarantee of long term success.

HTH

That's not something I'd considered, so thanks for the prompt. I'm a bit unsure what to do now as a new set of three motors costs a fair bit.

Time for a think.................

Thanks once again for all your help. It's really confidence enspiring knowing there's a wealth of willing information out there to keep me/us right.

Dennis

[Logic]

Hi Folks

After checking out some options for replacing the blend motor as a single unit, I found that Bearmach do one - STC3259A is the part number. It has Valeo marked on the side (unsure if same as original due to the one I'm removing having been previously spliced in) and comes with about 6" of cable for splicing into the original loom. So the outcome is that it now all works fine, and the book warning symbol has disappeared - I'm now a happy chappy!

A point that was interesting for people with similar problems is that under the Bearmach sticker is a Valeo no. 509221 - for Peugeot 405 - so that may be another avenue for obtaining replacements?

For the rear passenger door switch, I found that the connector had previously been left disconnected presumably during a previous attempt to repair the central locking actuator. So now the light switch works but I'll have to replace the lcok anyway as the lcoking still isn't working. I removed the three torx screws to see if it looked like an easy removal, but no, there must be something else holding it in (I don't yet have a replacement so didn't want to continue incase I broke something)? Also, I wondered if it would be able to come out of the hole there without drilling rivets and removing the internal door frame (unsure of name)? Can anybody confirm what I need to do to swap this lock?

I'm off back out to look into this cruise control problem..........

Thanks once again

Dennis

[Logic]

I've been back at the cruise control problem, and after removing/checking the brake pedal switch - which was ok - I found the hose perished at the point where it goes through the bulkhead. I've done a temporary repair with emalgamating tape (should be good for holding a vacuum), but when I went a run I still had no cruise control. When trying to activate it I can hear 'clicks' coming from under the dash somewhere. The cruise control 'on' button illuminates when depressed, then I hear a click when pressing 'set'. I hear another click when pressing 'res'. Also, when I've pressed 'set' then press the brake pedal I can hear a 'click'. From all this 'clicks' I figure that the switches must all work (all these 'clicks' sound like a relay or something, not the actual switch operation).

Does anybody have any idea's of where to go next?

I've had another look at how to remove the passenger rear locking mechanism, and I think I can answer my own question on whether that frame has to come out - and yes, I reckon it does. It actually doesn't look so bad a job, but I'm concerned at what the window will do - should I just tape it in the closed position to stop it falling?

Thanks.