Les Henson Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 One of the easiest PAS pump replacements is on this engine due to the high position of the pump. This one wasn't leaking, but had lost all pressure, and there was no detectable assistance with the steering. Nothing needs removing to gain access - the top radiator hose is directly above the pump, but not really in the way and can remain in place. Tools required are also minimal - 13mm spanner, 10mm spanner, 16mm (5/8") spanner, screwdriver or 7mm socket. The pump:- First off - slacken the three 13mm nuts that secure the pulley to the pump body. underneath the pump is the tensioner bolt, slacken this and remove the drive belt. It sits behind the main fan belt, so just leave it where it is. Then remove completely the three nuts along with the pulley and the spacer washer that's clamped between the pulley and pump. Tensioner bolt right of centre of this picture, slacken - don't remove. Place a suitable container under the vehicle to catch fluid loss (about 1/2 litre). I use an old washing-up bowl. There are two pipes connected to the pump, the upper one,shown in this picture is the pressure side and is 16mm or 5/8". Wipe around the fitting to remove road grit and then undo completely. Hold the pipe down wards and let the fluid drain out. This takes a while (10mins). The pump is held to it's bracket by 3 x M6 bolts, so 10mm spanner and remove all three. The pump is now free and is only attached by the second pipe, which is the feed from the steering fluid reservoir. Turn the pump 'nose down' as shown in this picture, clean the fitting, then undo the jubilee clip (screwdriver/7mm socket). The pipe will come off and more fluid will drain out of the system. When attaching the supply pipe to the new pump, make sure you don't put a twist in it, as re-fitting the pipe with the pump in the nose down position means you'll twist the pump to get it back into the bracket. Fitting the new pump is just as easy as removing the old one - make sure the pipe fittings are clean - road grit will shorten the life of it. it's important that the spacer washer is used (I had a new one with the new pump), this aligns the drive belt. Always use new fluid, it's ATF/TQF = Automatic transmission fluid. The old stuff will almost certainly have small particles of metal in, and will have got comtaminated anyway. Fill the reservoir, start the engine and let it idle, turn the steering lock to lock, and bleed off of the top of the steering box, check for any leaks and the fluid level and that's the job finished. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Should try that same job on a Range Rover with A/C etc. Let me see, alternator out, air cleaner disconnected, distributor out. The skin grew back on my knuckles, eventually! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 13, 2006 Author Share Posted April 13, 2006 Which Rangy is that? The 4.6 outside has the pump on the top in front of the R/H head, opposite side of the engine to the alternator, and alongside the AC pump. The PAS pump can be removed from it wiithout touching anything else. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 Another good job for thr Tekkie Archive Les, looks like all went smoothly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 13, 2006 Author Share Posted April 13, 2006 I noticed you didn't stick around to help - bluddy skiver! Nice to see you again Ralph. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 13, 2006 Share Posted April 13, 2006 I noticed you didn't stick around to help - bluddy skiver! Nice to see you again Ralph. Les. You didn't need any help wiv that tiny job catch up with again you before I go back home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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