timing belt

[gsr341]

hello

im going to replace my 300tdi defender cam belt this coming week (time permitting)

whats everones opinions on which tensioning pully and ideler pully to get , from landrover or the likes of dare i say it britpart (possable made in the same factory ?)

and i dont have the parts manual , is there a gasket on the front cover ? im assuming there is ?

cheers

[Guest diesel_jim]

Here's a list of the parts for a belt, pully,tensioner and gasket, along with the crank inner and outer seals that are worth changing whilst you're in there...

[western]

I've not done a 300Tdi, but would change all the bits in DJ's list above

[Les Henson]

I did a full service on a 300TDi a while ago, along with replacing the Injector pump and a few other jobs.

I did start to take pictures, but the batteries failed in the camera, so no post in the tech archive. The few pictures I took are here. The job itself is no more complex than the 200TDi equivalent. If you have to remove the injector pump sprocket - it's worth mentioning that there is no woodruff key to locate the sprocket in the correct relationship with the shaft, so you would need to make your own marks. In the service there is no need to remove the sprocket, but it's worth mentioning.

Anyway - you can buy a cam belt kit, which contains everything you will need:-

About £70 for the kit from aftermarket supplier.

What you see when you remove the cover:-

Belt, guide wheel and tensioner removed - the usual gunky mess.

Once cleaned, the timing pointer (cute little blunt arrow thingy) can be seen.

Mis-alignment of the timing belt means that there's rubber dust on everything.

The outer casing is slightly damaged from the friction of the belt rubbing against it.

The new crank sprocket in the kit has a raised lip on the outside to prevent the alignment problems you see in the pictures above, plus instruction for other modifications.

I assume from your original post that you have done a 200TDi in the past, there are a few differences with the 300 engine, but it's no more difficult I would say.

Les.

Forgot to add:-

In my experience - the tensioner has had to be replaced before the service interval through premature bearing failure on many occasions. The belt is Dayco, and good quality - I've never had a problem.

To be fair though - DIY-ers tend to treat timing belts like fan belts and over tighten them, possibly contributing to failure of the bearing.

I've heard a so-called mechanic say "the belt will howl for a few hundred miles 'cos it's new - nothing to worry about"

Yeah, right!

The kit you see in the above picture was supplied by Bearmach.

[Porny]

I fitted the same kit last weekend...

Took the front cover off and found that the belt had been running on the front cover due to misalignment...

Even if technically your engine doesn't need the modification kit, it's actually cheaper to buy the kit than all the bits separately!! - Part number is STC4096L (and the cheapest place I found was http://www.lrdirect.com/customer/product.p...roductid=92525)

AFAIK, my belt was the original one from the factory... and some kind hearted person had left the front damper bolt loose (only need a smack to come undone) and most the front cover bolts weren't torqued up correctly. Which was nice (not)

I also took the radiator and intercooler out (much more room, and no chance of slipping and damaging the rad) when I did mine, and then flushed both the radiator and intercooler before they were re-fitted. Doing this also gives you much more room.

Just make sure you lock everything correctly... I've got one of the complete kits from www.difflock.com (including the locking bar), and though quite expensive initially, is worth it's weight in gold in my opinion and would fully recommend it!!! (kit also allows you to get the old crank sprocket off without any effort!!)

Ease wise, no more difficult than a 200Tdi... if anything it's easier and quicker.

Whilst you've got your coolant drained (and drive belt off), also worth checking your 'p-gasket'.... This is the metal 'p' shaped gasket that goes between the back of the water pump (casing) and the engine block. These have a habit of leaking on a 300Tdi... which often causes them to over heat!!!. (can't remember the part number off the top of my head)

To change this, all you need to do is remove the casting that the water pump bolts into... put in a new gasket and bolt it all back together.

Ian

[gsr341]

cheers guys

and thanks for the pics

ive hear a rumor that ther modified bottom pully can also cause problems ? with the new ''ring'' coming off the pully ?

cheer dafydd

[BogMonster]

gsr

that is correct, I have seen a few failures where the front tin plate on the pulley has let go and it has shed the belt

I did read somewhere that somebody (Bearmach) was doing a proper cast crank pulley for the 300Tdi that does the same job but with some degree of robustness, but I never got around to investigating. I'm also not sure what is now fitted to the very latest 300Tdi engines like I have in my 90.

[freeagent]

so when i get my new 300Tdi Disco, what should i do about parts? go genuine.... or pattern.. i'd buy a Dayco belt but not sure i can stretch to all genuine pulleys etc...

i wouldn't buy Britpart as the last few bits i had from them were garbage... hub seal that didn't fit, and a water pump that lasted 6 days...

[JST]

i replaced my 300tdi with the Bearmach parts kit for the modification kit as above. it worked a dream and i had no later problems. Brighty bought it (on this forum) so he may be able to add comments!

just done mt 200tdi weekend before last using Dayco belt and Bearmach tensioner and seals.

it amy be worth getting a cam seal as well then on taking it apart if you see its leaking you can do that as well.

just from experience i would suggest you get two crank seals, its quite tricky to get in square!!! as i found out.

you can do it quite easily without taking the rad etc out.

[cipx2]

Sorry for digging this thread up but my question falls in the same line.

I need to replace the timing belt on my 300tdi disco in the near future and I have a question or two.

My disco VIN # is WA76xxxx so it's over the WA74xxxxx limit, when all the misalignment problems were solved. From what I read here, in this thread, it seems that buying the STC4096L is a good option in terms of manufacture quality (i mean the bearings fitted to the tensioner and idler pulleys), price and it has the crankshaft sprocket included (i will order the woodruff key as well).

The question is this: does this STC4096L kit fit the later 300Tdi's (on the Discovery) that don't have the timing belt misalignment problem?

[western]

Can't see why not it's the same engine.

[western]

double post, delete this one please.

[Daan]

I know we have been here before, but does anyone know the engine spec (ie if the updated setup was fitted originally) from the engine number rather than from the chassisnumber?

Daan

[western]

LR only issued the chassis numbers of the affected vehicles, I've never seen a list of engine numbers for that problem, the full list if chassis numbers is in the tech archive.