Wheel bearings

[davidlandy]

Why do my bl***y wheel bearings keep coming loose? checked my motor today are sure enough both fronts and the NSR are loose again.

I following the book to the letter and still they keep goin out of adjustment.

I am beginning to think that they are just wearing quick!

Grrrrrrrrr

[JST]

follow the book to the letter?

you use an end float thingy?

or torque up , back off retorque and then put the locking washer and outside nut on?

[davidlandy]

James

your option 2 is the one i follow!

as contained in the LR manual

[JST]

i dont have the LR manual

so wat torques do you do to?

35NM, back of then 10Nm then outer to 35Nm?

[darthdicky]

Which seals are you using? I tried the supposedly better RTC3511 seals instead of FTC4875 (or something like that) and had loads go. Went back to the correct seals for my axles and have had far fewer problems as far as I remember. Genuine (or OEM) bearings last better too.

This is the method I use for doing them up, never had a problem with them coming loose, only filling up with mud and wearing out/seizing!

I believe it's from the workshop manual?

1. Fit spacing washer.

2. Fit hub adjusting nut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft). Ensure hub is free to rotate with no bearing play. Back off adjusting nut 90° and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lbf/ft).

3. Fit a new lock washer.

4. Fit locknut. Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lbf/ft).

5. Tab over lock washer to secure adjusting nut and locknut.

6. Using a new joint washer fit axle shaft to hub. Tighten bolts to 65 Nm (48 lbf/ft).

7. Fit brake caliper. Tighten bolts to 82 Nm (61 lbf/ft). Secure brake pipes to axle casing.

8. Fit road wheel, remove axle stands and tighten road wheel nuts to correct torque:

Alloy wheels - 130 Nm (96 lbf/ft)

Steel wheels - 100 Nm (80 lbf/ft)

Heavy duty wheels - 170 Nm (125 lbf/ft)

Richard

[mmgemini]

Torque up wheel bearings?? Why ??

Use a DTI on wheel bearings?? Why ??

Something I've never used.

I don't seem to have wheel bearing problems but then I tend to service mine at 6,000 miles. Yes hub off,clean and repack and refit.

Please to save my fingers go to www.lrtech.co.uk on the Defender board is my wheel bearing post.

It might help you with your bearings.

I eat rat poison

mike

I can cause trouble in an empty house !!!

[steve_a]

I've done a few bearings now, so I'm getting quite a refined technique. however I too kept finding that play would come back, never tried the end float method, but have tried the torque method. I even bought a socket specially for the job.

Still they come loose.

What i've settled on, and they haven't loosened after this, is to do the job as normal, but once the first nut is on to a sensible tightness I put the wheel back on with 2/3 nuts and then I tighten until the play goes out from the wheel. You can get a lot more leverage using the wheel than just trying to test with the hub only.

I know that technically I might be overtightenning the bearings, however I figure given the choice of wobbling wheel (and the wear on the bearings) versus slightly too tight I'll go for the latter.

I do now put the outer nut on and torque it up to 65nm (I think - it's written in my manual) which is a lot tighter than I could manage with a box spanner.

[pigster]

It may be down to the stub axle - if there are groves on it you will never get it right, make sure that the stub is as smooth as a babies bum or else you are wasting your time.

I've done a few bearings now, so I'm getting quite a refined technique. however I too kept finding that play would come back, never tried the end float method, but have tried the torque method. I even bought a socket specially for the job.

Still they come loose.

What i've settled on, and they haven't loosened after this, is to do the job as normal, but once the first nut is on to a sensible tightness I put the wheel back on with 2/3 nuts and then I tighten until the play goes out from the wheel. You can get a lot more leverage using the wheel than just trying to test with the hub only.

I know that technically I might be overtightenning the bearings, however I figure given the choice of wobbling wheel (and the wear on the bearings) versus slightly too tight I'll go for the latter.

I do now put the outer nut on and torque it up to 65nm (I think - it's written in my manual) which is a lot tighter than I could manage with a box spanner.

[Mark90]

I kinda use the torque method with a box spanner.

Do it up kin tight so there's resistance in the wheel rotation, my box spanner is cross drilled with bigger holes than standard to take a heavy duty wheel brace whic helps. Back off and do up 'snug' then (after fitting tab washer) do up lock nut kin tight. Works for me.

[white90]

Re:

Torque up wheel bearings?? Why ??

Use a DTI on wheel bearings?? Why ??

I use a torque wrench because:

with experience it is easy

without where do you start?

I use a torque wrench and have no bearing issues.

once you've done a few you can feel what is happening,

[JST]

Mark - my box spanner was similar to yours and as i wanted to use the torque method i welded a socket into the end of it, works a treat now.

i do mine as per the torque method above Darth/Tony etc.

works fine to date.

[white90]

I purchase da 52mm socket 1/2 drive

then extended it to deal with 110 CV's in 300TDI hubs

[Exmoor Beast]

when Pete Rowe oversaw us doing my CV on the Exmoor Challenge a few years ago he said the wheelbearing nut should be as tight as you can by hand with oily hands on the socket, thats the theory I have stuck with and it seems to work fine! not terribly technical I know

Will

[mmgemini]

when Pete Rowe oversaw us doing my CV on the Exmoor Challenge a few years ago he said the wheelbearing nut should be as tight as you can by hand with oily hands on the socket, thats the theory I have stuck with and it seems to work fine! not terribly technical I know

Will

I've just tried that method.

Brilliant.Makes my job easier.

When I was working at the Ford main dealer I worked on Transits.

Drum brakes in those days.Every service the wheels and hubs came off.

I found that using the socket on a 3/8 drive speed brace gave me the correct nip on all the bearings.

I eat rat poison

mike

I can cause trouble in am empty house !!

[freeagent]

i tend to go for 'as tight as it'll go with a 24" breaker bar, with gravity doing it up" i.e i let the breaker bar drop clockwise until it stops then just brush my hand against it... seams real good to me, pretty similar to the 'oily hands method' ...i don't tent to bother with a torque wrench for wheel bearings... just go with what feels right.