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Non start P38 after fitting new battery

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Hi everybody, I'm hoping you can help mre with this problem! I have 1997 4.0 p38 Range Rover, which has started first time ever since i've had it, battery went flat while i was away (1 week) decided to fit a new battery, this now has been a pain in the rear which i wish i hadn't started, anyway changed the battery motor started was running fine 10mins but it did say key code lockout, switched motor off then it would not start, phoned up local agent who said it wanted an EKA code to start it, Take out a mortgage and bring it to us springs to mind!)-don't think so. they gave me the code entered it as shown in book, no start, various people have said disconnect battery, reconnect re-enter code it will take it, after 10 times or so still not starting, turned key on and off couple of times it started revved lovely ran it for 15mins it would not tickover though it was like the tickover speed wanted to be 100rpm so it wanted to try and cut out each time you took foot off throttle (if you held it above tickover speed it ran nice) after running it turn it on/off a couple of times restarted ok, i thought great! left it for 10mins or so switched off then went to start it,it would fire straight away but will not rev in anyway then cut out just after it fired- this is all so strange because the motor would always start first time before this battery was fitted, people have said if someone has got a rovercon they might be able to help diagnose this problem, what ever it is! sorry this so long but needed to give the full SP of what has happened since fitting this new battery. Can anybody help me with this problem? it has been suggested that a fuse box might be faulty but why did it start ok before! the battery was changed.

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Where in the world are you? It might help to identify someone who can eyeball the car and give a second opinion, without it costing you an arm and a leg.

I agree it seems strange that all this should happen coincidentally with changing the battery.

The problem appears to have changed from a security issue to engine not starting, or not running properly once started.

The 'rovercon' is actually a Rovacom, made by a firm called Blackbox Solutions, based in Cyprus. I believe they now advertise in some of the magazines, Land Rover Monthly for instance. The current products are not called Rovacom. You don't want to buy now because it will be a lot of money when you don't actually know what is wrong. You need someone with one of these tools and the associated knowledge and experience, which is where knowing your location becomes useful.

If you want guesses, you could have mode some silly mistake connecting the battery, so double check what you have done, and anything in the local area you may have inadvertently knocked.

Yes, the Fuse box could be corroded, and a knock while you were working pushed it over the line, from just working to just not working.

The Adaptive settings could have reset themselves for some reason, and you need to drive the vehicle until they re-adjust themselves.

The Mass Airflow Sensor has become damaged.

As I say, guesses; but the best one is that you need a more knowledgeable pair of eyes.

HTH

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Hi everybody, I'm hoping you can help mre with this problem! I have 1997 4.0 p38 Range Rover, which has started first time ever since i've had it, battery went flat while i was away (1 week) decided to fit a new battery, this now has been a pain in the rear which i wish i hadn't started, anyway changed the battery motor started was running fine 10mins but it did say key code lockout, switched motor off then it would not start, phoned up local agent who said it wanted an EKA code to start it, Take out a mortgage and bring it to us springs to mind!)-don't think so. they gave me the code entered it as shown in book, no start, various people have said disconnect battery, reconnect re-enter code it will take it, after 10 times or so still not starting, turned key on and off couple of times it started revved lovely ran it for 15mins it would not tickover though it was like the tickover speed wanted to be 100rpm so it wanted to try and cut out each time you took foot off throttle (if you held it above tickover speed it ran nice) after running it turn it on/off a couple of times restarted ok, i thought great! left it for 10mins or so switched off then went to start it,it would fire straight away but will not rev in anyway then cut out just after it fired- this is all so strange because the motor would always start first time before this battery was fitted, people have said if someone has got a rovercon they might be able to help diagnose this problem, what ever it is! sorry this so long but needed to give the full SP of what has happened since fitting this new battery. Can anybody help me with this problem? it has been suggested that a fuse box might be faulty but why did it start ok before! the battery was changed.

If the battery goes totally flat with a P38 then you could have problems as various systems need a few volts to keep running. Getting the EKA code was a goog idea and started the car but it now doesn't run as normal, bit unlucky. An 'Adaptive Reset' is the first thing I would try (as advised by the last post) Try to find an independant with T4 TestBook or Autologic and try this as the first thing. As I suspect that you have been pulling fuses and plugs etc in an attempt to solve the problem.

It would be of great help if you gave us some more information. What car is it, year etc etc etc?

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Where in the world are you? It might help to identify someone who can eyeball the car and give a second opinion, without it costing you an arm and a leg.

I agree it seems strange that all this should happen coincidentally with changing the battery.

The problem appears to have changed from a security issue to engine not starting, or not running properly once started.

The 'rovercon' is actually a Rovacom, made by a firm called Blackbox Solutions, based in Cyprus. I believe they now advertise in some of the magazines, Land Rover Monthly for instance. The current products are not called Rovacom. You don't want to buy now because it will be a lot of money when you don't actually know what is wrong. You need someone with one of these tools and the associated knowledge and experience, which is where knowing your location becomes useful.

If you want guesses, you could have mode some silly mistake connecting the battery, so double check what you have done, and anything in the local area you may have inadvertently knocked.

Yes, the Fuse box could be corroded, and a knock while you were working pushed it over the line, from just working to just not working.

The Adaptive settings could have reset themselves for some reason, and you need to drive the vehicle until they re-adjust themselves.

The Mass Airflow Sensor has become damaged.

As I say, guesses; but the best one is that you need a more knowledgeable pair of eyes.

HTH

Hi David

Last owner was going to replace battery soon as it was 4-5 years old anyway, and was dropping it's charge a bit over a couple of weeks, so i thought i would change it to make the car more reliable (joke so far), I live in Newbury in Berkshire! what are those adaptive settings you mentioned? your very right that i don't want to spend loads of money as you say an arm an a leg on something i don't need (christmas coming up and all that!). That why i'm hoping that you guys on the forum can help me as no doubt you experienced the same problems at one stage i was told by an agent it needed a new receiver (£200+fitting+£77 to go on computer+vat+getting it there, happens all the time!I'm an ex "old Mechanic" who can see(sometimes) when someone wants to make easy money, i've been told it's not that anyway.

I had a good look around and can't see anything i have touched or knocked to cause the problem.

I really appreciate all the help advice and guidance from you all and feel sure that we will remedy the problem-I just want to use it!

Bryn

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If the battery goes totally flat with a P38 then you could have problems as various systems need a few volts to keep running. Getting the EKA code was a goog idea and started the car but it now doesn't run as normal, bit unlucky. An 'Adaptive Reset' is the first thing I would try (as advised by the last post) Try to find an independant with T4 TestBook or Autologic and try this as the first thing. As I suspect that you have been pulling fuses and plugs etc in an attempt to solve the problem.

It would be of great help if you gave us some more information. What car is it, year etc etc etc?

Hi "Stopover"

Just sent a reply also to "David Sparkes", yes the battery went totally flat, last owner was going to replace it soon! before i got it, My motor is as at the top of the thread P reg (97) P38 Range Rover 4.0 petrol, Manual, 100k on the clock (nicest bit is it was a 1 owner vehicle-old chap) i did pull some of the fuses out to check them when someone said it could be to do with the fuse box uder the bonnet but obviously couldn't see anything wrong there.what other info do you need mate? i will gladly give it to you, like i said to david I'm an ex "old mechanic". I got out when electronics came in, but i still love working on them! hopefully we will solve the problem.

Bryn

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i don't know about the learning phase of the ecu. but the not running properly as if it wanted to only idle at 100 rpm sounds like idle control. you can adjust the idle position so that the butterfly on manifold starts to open and this will allow the engine to idle through throttle as opposed to through the idle control motor.. just a thought before you spend cash on the diagnostic session.

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i don't know about the learning phase of the ecu. but the not running properly as if it wanted to only idle at 100 rpm sounds like idle control. you can adjust the idle position so that the butterfly on manifold starts to open and this will allow the engine to idle through throttle as opposed to through the idle control motor.. just a thought before you spend cash on the diagnostic session.

Everything above points at an electrical issue - messing with mechanical settings while there are (probably) other issues is likely to result in a lot of head scratching and down the line when trying to get everything back where it should be.

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Hi "Stopover"

Just sent a reply also to "David Sparkes", yes the battery went totally flat, last owner was going to replace it soon! before i got it, My motor is as at the top of the thread P reg (97) P38 Range Rover 4.0 petrol, Manual, 100k on the clock (nicest bit is it was a 1 owner vehicle-old chap) i did pull some of the fuses out to check them when someone said it could be to do with the fuse box uder the bonnet but obviously couldn't see anything wrong there.what other info do you need mate? i will gladly give it to you, like i said to david I'm an ex "old mechanic". I got out when electronics came in, but i still love working on them! hopefully we will solve the problem.

Bryn

I missed this post when it first came in.

When we say fuse box we are talking about corrosion in the fusebox mounted in the engine bay.

I've never had the problem in mine, but from what I've read from others, the damage may be difficult to spot from on top, just by pulling the odd fuse or relay.

Rather, disconnect the battery, undo the mounting bolt, and tip the box towards the engine, so you can see underneath. Wriggle off a few of the connectors - they are colour coded - so you can see more.

Note that there are some unprotected studs under there. If you lift the box without disconnecting the battery, when you replace the box you catch one of these studs on the painted but sharp edged brackets that position the box. Phhhht, there goes one of the expensive Main Fuses.

You will probably see more about fusebox corrosion and repair on the main RangeRovers.net site, with pictures.

HTH.

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Hi again

Day off from work went out to the motor, it started i thought it's rectified itself! no chance but it started held it on revs for a couple of minutes then it started loosing power and revs then died out, started it again went to rev it then it started loosing power then cut out, started it with no throttle so it then decides to tickover for a couple of minutes at the correct tickover speed went to rev it it had like a massive flat spot then cut out again, decided to lock door and go back to work deflated, i did notice again that since the battery change and doing the EKA the remote will not lock and alarm the motor (have to lock by key) but it will unlock though, anyway i'm trying to find someone with some diagnostic equipment to have a look without it costing an arm and a leg, i'm hoping that there might be someone on the forum who might be able to help who's got the neccessary gubbins and is local to Newbury. hope the update helps out so far.

Bryn

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I missed this post when it first came in.

When we say fuse box we are talking about corrosion in the fusebox mounted in the engine bay.

I've never had the problem in mine, but from what I've read from others, the damage may be difficult to spot from on top, just by pulling the odd fuse or relay.

Rather, disconnect the battery, undo the mounting bolt, and tip the box towards the engine, so you can see underneath. Wriggle off a few of the connectors - they are colour coded - so you can see more.

Note that there are some unprotected studs under there. If you lift the box without disconnecting the battery, when you replace the box you catch one of these studs on the painted but sharp edged brackets that position the box. Phhhht, there goes one of the expensive Main Fuses.

You will probably see more about fusebox corrosion and repair on the main RangeRovers.net site, with pictures.

HTH.

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Hi again people

after this didn't start i left it, thoroughly disheartened. but with your advise i got someone to bring up some diagnostic gear (they cleared existing codes that were on there) and went through various tests and came up with 2 codes PO102 & PO103 can you offer any advise as to what they mean he mentioned something about a short possibly to earth?, again the vehicle would not start at all it appears that we have spark at the plugs ok, you can smell the fuel he then said just spray a small wiff of easy start near the tube after the air filter was removed it should fire at least-no it didn't at all it will prove if it fuel related, not a chance it didn't fire at all. The diagnostic equipment was Auto..... something i can't remember.

anyways a renewed approach might help as it won't fire up at all, what has the eka code got to do with the starting?

does anybody have a contact for snake who apparently lives near me nr Newbury?, your renewed help would be greatly appreciated.

Bryn

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I haven't re-read the complete thread, but as an instant response, there might be something useful in this thread, as it covers battery disconnection and re-connection. Second thought, as you appear to have engine cranking, you probably don't need this step, this time.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19563&sid=f86e6a6221cf1698d3bb6ae9c242004c

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)are shown in sticky posts in this Forum, but note that while it's easy to translate the Codes into English words, understanding what might be wrong and what might be needed to correct the fault is a different skill altogether. Just because you have the words doesn't mean the rest is easy.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=8

Auto-something would be Autologic, a trade competitor to Blackbox Solutions of Cyprus.

EKA is Emergency Key Access. Using this gets you through the door and If Everything Is Working Correctly, through the Security procedure, where the BECM talks to the Engine ECU, and will allow the starter to crank.

In your case, the engine appears to crank when you turn the key, so you are getting through the Security system, which is good.

I don't profess to have any significant knowledge about the V8 in the 38A, so I'll leave possible diagnosis of the DTCs to someone else.

Good Luck.

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I haven't re-read the complete thread, but as an instant response, there might be something useful in this thread, as it covers battery disconnection and re-connection. Second thought, as you appear to have engine cranking, you probably don't need this step, this time.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19563&sid=f86e6a6221cf1698d3bb6ae9c242004c

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)are shown in sticky posts in this Forum, but note that while it's easy to translate the Codes into English words, understanding what might be wrong and what might be needed to correct the fault is a different skill altogether. Just because you have the words doesn't mean the rest is easy.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=8

Auto-something would be Autologic, a trade competitor to Blackbox Solutions of Cyprus.

EKA is Emergency Key Access. Using this gets you through the door and If Everything Is Working Correctly, through the Security procedure, where the BECM talks to the Engine ECU, and will allow the starter to crank.

In your case, the engine appears to crank when you turn the key, so you are getting through the Security system, which is good.

I don't profess to have any significant knowledge about the V8 in the 38A, so I'll leave possible diagnosis of the DTCs to someone else.

Good Luck.

Hi David

Sorry it's been so long away from this problem got so demoralised with it, but now it's time to look forward again, it's to nice a vehicle to leave. I was hoping that when he clipped that machine on to it, it was going to show up an obvious fault (wishful thinking i suppose)and hear it running afterwards, on my last thread it did start albeit very temporarily of sorts but now nothing. still i'm hoping that you chaps out there will find the solution. i will keep in touch to let you know any outcomes mate.

Bryn

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Hi again all

Ref that non start problem, well, after leaving it alone and a long stay in hospital(still on crutches, can't walk) i put battery on charge, managed to play around with connections as far as i could under bonnet, took the blue aerial lead off that RF receiver box at rear of seat, re-entered eka code and whey-hey it started first time, is that a coincidence or what! runs lovely starts first time each turn of the key except that the tickover is very slow and she slightly hunts on this slow tickover from 200rpm down to 50rpm up and down. Can you offer any advice or ideas on the tickover what can be done about it?

Why did this suddenly start after a machine couldn't find anything! the remote still will not lock or unlock the doors but the buttons will operate the alarm because the flashers flash

When it started it came up with EAS fault haven't seen it since though, all four lights stayed illuminated on the dash to do with the suspension, that has now settled to the second line but the suspension itself is staying up high at the moment. thanks very much for all your help so far everybody, i really appreciate it. awaiting with anticipation

Bryn

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sounds like the becm and engine ecu have gone out of sync a reprogam should do it does the remote work the locking and it does not display immobiliser fault?

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