gsr341 Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 hello how the best wy to remove the fliping tight bolt out of the crank , on a 300tdi had a look at it tonight in preperation of the cam belt change satarday , but she refused to budge had a 2' bar on it no joy , it is a right hand thread isnt it any help appriceated , heard some people talk about locking a bar to the chassis and turning the engine over , which way does the engine turn ? thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 hello how the best wy to remove the fliping tight bolt out of the crank , on a 300tdi had a look at it tonight in preperation of the cam belt change satarday , but she refused to budge had a 2' bar on it no joy , it is a right hand thread isnt it any help appriceated , heard some people talk about locking a bar to the chassis and turning the engine over , which way does the engine turn ? thank you Best method is a breaker bar on the pulley bolt. Engine rotates clockwise as you look at the front of the vehicle, so with the breaker bar resting on passanger side chassis rail, bolt will unscrew when engine cranked. Works exceptionally well! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 Indeed, I always use this method to undo a crank bolt. Make sure the socket is a good fit and is on the head of the bolt as far as it would go. Remove the fuel cut-off switch wire from the solenoid to prevent the engine from starting, and then briefly turn the key. On the odd occasion the bar will not move, but the truck will spin. This is unfortunate, but at least the bolt still comes undone. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 I actually made a crank pulley holding tool, wedge that against the cassis rail and used a 5' length of water pipe on the breaker bar. Yes, it's a standard RH thread. The reason for the tool is that you have to be able to do the damn thing up again afterwards Best use a 3/4 drive bar and socket for tightening up, as the tension is pretty remakable (xxNm + 90*) I destroyed my nice 1/2" drive Snap On (snapped off ??) breaker bar doing the sod up. At a pinch, a chisel ground down and wedged in the large slot of the flywheel will also hold the crank, and I know of one Land Rover dealer here that does just that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 I did the "turn the starter" method once, but the ill fitting socket flew off and caught one of the PAS pipes and split it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 to undo the bar needs to be against the underneath of the drivers side(LHS) when stood at the front looking at the car. BigSi says passenger side this is the opposite of what I did on my 300TDI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 Your bar needs to rest on the top of passenger rail or the underside of driver's side rail... (if the engine rotates clockwise as viewed looking backwards along the vehicle). Watch out for brake pipes (and PAS pipes!) in the area. I slid a piece of plywood down the back of the rad too, just in case it flailed around and punched a hole through that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 to undo the bar needs to be against the underneath of the drivers side(LHS) when stood at the front looking at the car.BigSi says passenger side this is the opposite of what I did on my 300TDI. Depends whether the bar is on top or underneath the chassis rail. If the chassis were not there your breaker bar would swing round clockwise as you are looking at the front of the vehicle. It can either rest on the top of the chassis on the passanger side or the underside of the chassis on the driver side. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 all engine rotate clockwise except for a few hondas. with my v8, put it in gear, hadbrake on and chock forn wheels. use a break bar; push on that and whack with a mallet did the trick; pretty sure it wasn't as tight as yours is gonna be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 i used an air wrench, but i think i'd taken the rad out so had enough room... whipped it off with no probs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 At a pinch, a chisel ground down and wedged in the large slot of the flywheel will also hold the crank, and I know of one Land Rover dealer here that does just that.... Did you remove the starter to gain access, or is there an inspection hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 There is a "drain" hole in the bottom of the bell-housing where the wadeing plug fits and where the special crank position retaining tool goes. Gain access through here. The bellhousing is alloy though so it would not be my first choice as the (soft) alloy may very well be damaged by applying force to it. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 if its parked in-gear, centre diff locked, handbrake on and two wheels chocked it shouldn't need the flywheel locking whilst undoing the crank nut... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 the clutch slips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 OK, fair enough, thats never happened to me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 clutch slipping has happend to me trying to undo the bolt and too mcuh rocking between the gears, used the starter method last time, worked a treat. prior to that used a 3/4 air gun on my 300tdi, but needed rad removed to gain access etc. suggest you use an old wing mirror to line up elems etc and leave rad in place, plenty of room and alot quicker job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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