Exmoor Beast Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I am in the doghouse Took Lucys new Disco out and blew the CV to bits OPPS! My own fault entirely as I knew it was clicking when we bought it, its just I forgot to get the right CV when I was down at D4x4 last week. Anyway, wheel removed, brake caliper bolts next, uh, ahhh, uh, twang! bashed knuckles, uh, ahh, GOD these are tight. I have WD40'd them and will set about them again later with the torque wrench. BUT how tight should they be? I don't want to go attacking them with a girt long wrench and snap them...been there and done that on the 110 Any ideas? They don't have opposite thread or anything silly do they? Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 68ftlbs clockwise to undo looking into the wheel well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 Standard thread then, you're just looking at it from the wrong end.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 They are standard thread Will. Some people do caliper bolts up unnecessarily tight. If the socket is a snug fit on the bolt, then breaker bar. These bolts are loctited in, so I don't think WD40 is going to work. There really is no alternative but to try to undo it with leverage. If your socket (13mm 12-point?) is a loose fit, they try hammering a 1/2" one on instead. A loose socket is more likely to round off the bolt head. More trouble than the head shearing off in some cases. Of course, with your current record for busting anything - I would recommend you get someone else to do it! Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 One "Trick" which can help. With a pin or thin pointed metal object (ie dentists pick) clean out the back the the casing where the end of the bolt is... SOAK them all over in WD40. top back sides etc...dripping ! Place a brass drift on the head of the bolt, and smack it har, resray and smack again. Then try to undo, fill the inside of the socket with WD40 so area is dripping, try to undo, if it does move - even a bit redo the above, then DO UP a tad, then undo. This jiggly above bit helps get the WD40 into the threads, take your time, do not rush, and work it about WD wise, snapping it takes a second, and much longer th fix.. Heat if you can get it to it helps, boiling water and wd40, and then brass drift and smack etc ...not flame - WD brake fliud is inflamable ! Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 Top answers gentlemen! thanks. Socket is a good tight fit Les, Halfords Pro one so shouldn't flex too much. Torque wrench time! Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 Nige won't the brake disc be in the way just a tad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VERY OLD DISCO Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I agree with the heat approach. I have to undo Locktighted bolts etc a lot (not on Landies) and heat is sometimes the only way, it softens the stuff enough to allow the bolt to start to turn, then its plain sailing. But it has to be hot, hotter than hot water, but it shouldnt need a temperature that might damage anything. Brakes get hot anyway! Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 Nige won't the brake disc be in the way just a tad? I had the same thought Tony and I haven't got a scooby what I am doing most of the time Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I had the same thought Tony and I haven't got a scooby what I am doing most of the time Will If you can poke witrre etc behind it you can sometimes remove crud - loads of WD sometimes will ghet in there - clean disc off afterwards tho its just 'best you can'...which sometimes can make the final difference Oh and having drilled discs helps Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 Will, I also find using a decent 13mm ring spanner and a large lump hammer to shock the bolts helps. Just make sure you don't let the spanner slip..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 Can you get a rattle gun in there, I can't recall as haven't needed to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 Can you get a rattle gun in there, I can't recall as haven't needed to try. Its a bit tight although it may be doable on lock.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pritch1 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 just out of interest some bright spark has rounded my bolts off in the past. has anyone any great ideas for removing them i have been splitting the caliper for reasons such as wheel bearing but this is a much bigger job. some one said that it may be possible to weld 4 cheaper sockets to the bolts but anyone any other ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 You will be amazed at how a good quality tool will make the job much quicker and easy. Good quality ratchet and a extension bar normally do the job but don't let it slip or you will never get the bolt out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 u can split the calipers and drill the bolts out from the disc side, obviously do it accurately so u can use new bolts in the original thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSN Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 I had a bolt where the head had been stripped. I got a slightly smaller socket and bashed it onto the caliper bolt head. This gripped enough to allow me to undo the bolt and then bash it back out of the socket once removed. I obviously then replaced with new bolt! Always remember the caliper bolts are the star style of shape not normal 6 sided bolts. You therefore need the multiposition sockets rather than the 6 sided versions but sure you are aware of that. Hope it works. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pritch1 Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 hi yea i use a multipoint socket the bolts are just complety stripped i may see if i can bash a 12 on then and see if this works really want drilling out to be a last resort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 many years ago I striped the head on some turbo studs on a old renault quadra we had some iron repair specialists onsite and they sorted it by simply grinding a new head (from the ceased one) to get a smaller spanner onto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Turbo sockets work well on rounded bolts as a last resort. Splitting the caliper's a bit of a pain and then you've got the deep joy of drilling out the bolts; something to avoid as I find its the only time I break drill bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pritch1 Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 never heard of a turbo socket u going tell us a little more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 These are turbo sockets. The picture's not great but the grooves are helical inside the socket and they just bite into the rounded head. Not cheap but they work very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pritch1 Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 ah yea i know the things we do a similar thing at halfords for removing locking wheel nuts i might know just where to borrow some of them from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 I used one of them once - it worked very well. Tap it on with a hammer so that it bites, then as you turn the ratchet, it twists on and bites - the theory being that the harder you turn, the harder it grips. The bolt was almost completely round, yet one of those things undid it with no problem. I thought about buying a set, but it's not that often I need to use one. I have a hammer and a variety of chisels anyway! An ideal use would be if you rounded off the rear fuel tank mounting bolts on a 110. There's nothing you could get in there other than a socket or one of those things. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted April 25, 2006 Share Posted April 25, 2006 Thinking about the way in which these Turbo sockets work reminds me of a product I once saw works along similar lines. This was a paste that you smear on the difficult nut/bolt head - prior to rounding it but if it is believed there is a danger that the tool will slip. The paste was a grease or somesuch with industrial diamonds suspended in it and that idea was that the diamonds would "bite" into both the tool and the fixing preventing slipping and allowing the application of increased torque. Not seen it for ages though, perhaps it did not work? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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