heeeelp!!!

[wozza35]

my missus just came back home in the 110 and said the clutch feels funny so i go and have a look,the pedal has very little resistance ,pump the pedal no different ,check the fluid level ,ok,no leaks visible,so i then pump the pedal some more and fluid starts coming out of the bellhousing drain hole is this serious? i need to fix it asap as we need the car

cheers warren

[Jon W]

Sounds like the clutch slave cylinder has gone. So you will have to replace that but be careful the connecting rod does not come off the clutch release arm or its a case of gearbox/engine out to access it. Do a search on the forum about it.

It may be the seals in the master however i am not so sure if that would cause it, it sound more like slave if the fluid is coming out of the bell housing.

Jon

[white90]

easy fix

as Jon says the salve cylinder has died

mine did the same last year.

[steve_a]

Hi Warren,

sounds like the clutch slave cylinder has gone, not uncommon. Good news is that it's not difficult to fix or expensive. Some of the job description is optional, and I'm describing from memory

1) remove gear box x member (it's 3 bolts on each side)

2) remove exhaust down pipe

The reason for 1 & 2 is that removing the down pipe increases the access considerably, but you can try without, to me I think it will take the same or more time without removing, but is more annoying and requires lots of extensions and UJs for the sockets

3) the slave cylinder is just below the starter motor, and is held on by 2 bolts, one has a hose bracket on. It might be worth trying to undo the hydraulic connection at the cylinder now, if it isn't keen to go then don't force it, it might have been on there some time and you don't want to round it off or break the pipe.

If it comes undone then undo the two bolts and then complete the removal of the pipe.

4) the slave cylinder will now come out, there is a shaft poking out of the dust seal in the end, if you are lucky this might be retained by a clip inside and hang free, most likely the clip has broken and it will come with the cylinder. DONT DROP THIS INTO THE BELLHOUSING!!!

OK, if you need to now then you can get the old slave in a vice and undo the pipe, there isn't anything to really do with the new one, just make sure the bleed screw is in there and if the shaft came out poke this into the new end.

Offer up te new one, if the arm came out offer up at a slight angle, as the arm will droop, the balled end needs to fit into a cup inside, offering at an angle will mean it should droop into it. If it stayed in there then just poke it into the rubber cap.

You will feel a bit of resistance as you are compressing the slave cylinder as you push the new one in.

Pop the bolts in and get everything lined up, the bracket can be a bit of a bugger.

Once it is all tightened up you need to bleed the clutch.

Once you are happy with the bleeding put the exhuaust and gbox x member back on and that's it.

It might be worth considering doing the master cylinder as well as the increased pressure in the new slave can cause the seals in that to go next, again not expesnsive and not too bad a job.

Can't think of anything else, it's not that difficult a job, a bit fiddly in places.

[wozza35]

Hi Warren,

sounds like the clutch slave cylinder has gone, not uncommon. Good news is that it's not difficult to fix or expensive. Some of the job description is optional, and I'm describing from memory

1) remove gear box x member (it's 3 bolts on each side)

2) remove exhaust down pipe

The reason for 1 & 2 is that removing the down pipe increases the access considerably, but you can try without, to me I think it will take the same or more time without removing, but is more annoying and requires lots of extensions and UJs for the sockets

3) the slave cylinder is just below the starter motor, and is held on by 2 bolts, one has a hose bracket on. It might be worth trying to undo the hydraulic connection at the cylinder now, if it isn't keen to go then don't force it, it might have been on there some time and you don't want to round it off or break the pipe.

If it comes undone then undo the two bolts and then complete the removal of the pipe.

4) the slave cylinder will now come out, there is a shaft poking out of the dust seal in the end, if you are lucky this might be retained by a clip inside and hang free, most likely the clip has broken and it will come with the cylinder. DONT DROP THIS INTO THE BELLHOUSING!!!

OK, if you need to now then you can get the old slave in a vice and undo the pipe, there isn't anything to really do with the new one, just make sure the bleed screw is in there and if the shaft came out poke this into the new end.

Offer up te new one, if the arm came out offer up at a slight angle, as the arm will droop, the balled end needs to fit into a cup inside, offering at an angle will mean it should droop into it. If it stayed in there then just poke it into the rubber cap.

You will feel a bit of resistance as you are compressing the slave cylinder as you push the new one in.

Pop the bolts in and get everything lined up, the bracket can be a bit of a bugger.

Once it is all tightened up you need to bleed the clutch.

Once you are happy with the bleeding put the exhuaust and gbox x member back on and that's it.

It might be worth considering doing the master cylinder as well as the increased pressure in the new slave can cause the seals in that to go next, again not expesnsive and not too bad a job.

Can't think of anything else, it's not that difficult a job, a bit fiddly in places.

thanks for that i replaced the slave not long ago,but i have had the engine changed,could they be at fault or is it just one of those things ?

cheers warren

[steve_a]

Possible that since the slave attaches to the engine (Is that right?) that they just reused the one that was there.

Otherwise i think the landy god has smote thee

[wozza35]

Possible that since the slave attaches to the engine (Is that right?) that they just reused the one that was there.

Otherwise i think the landy god has smote thee

must be the landy god as i had to put a new starter motor on yesterday

[freeagent]

i don't think anyones at fault, its just worn out, you used to be able to rebuild the old ones.. i think ive got a rebuild kit for and early 110 one at my folks place somewhere.

shell out for a lucas girling one, do not buy a cheap pattern part as the seals are made of cheese... a lucas girling one can be had from paddocks for about £23ish....

that was a good write up, i managed to do mine without taking the cross member out, but i'd imagine its loads easier if you do take it out..

[Gromit]

My tip I got from here was to (carefully) clamp the flexible hose to the slave. if the pedal is now rock hard, you know it's the slave. If the pedal moves, or goes to the floor, its the master.

I did mine without removing the x-member. Don't really rember it causing much problems, but yes definately remove the downpipe for access.

HTH

[wozza35]

My tip I got from here was to (carefully) clamp the flexible hose to the slave. if the pedal is now rock hard, you know it's the slave. If the pedal moves, or goes to the floor, its the master.

I did mine without removing the x-member. Don't really rember it causing much problems, but yes definately remove the downpipe for access.

HTH

jobs a good un removed the downpipe (again!! had to do the starter on saturday)made it much easier to get to ,but why do they put the pipe clamp on the bolt you cant see spent five minutes trying to tighten the bolt and realised that the pipe clamp was stopping the bolt from going in the hole

but thanks for all the advice guys

warren