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Changing a total wiring harness


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In my newly acquired 1989 110 station wagon, the various wiring harnesses have been mucked about so much that I'm tempted to just replace the lot.

Is this a practicality as the vehicle is not being stripped down, or are there places where getting the loom in is not possible without major dissasembly?

AWEM

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The binnacle to fusebox section would be a pain and involves taking a lot of the dash out.

It would be time consuming, but probably quicker than trying to sort out someone elses add ons/bodges/earth faults etc.

Engine loom and front to back loom would be a doddle

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I support the comment regarding the wiring through chassis. On my first Defender I didn't know any better and spent ages re-routing it through the chassis and new rear cross-member, on the second I just tied it to the outside (having learnt my lesson on the first!)

Cheers

Peter

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I know where you can get a full loom, bar the rear section and a few extension pieces, genuine landrover old stock, for around £200, it's a 91-96 type loom with the 16 blades fuses in one block, ie 2 rows of 8 fuses,

pm me if you're interested

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When I did my chassis swap I used some copper brake pipe to run the loom through the chassis as it's was before I stripped it out, all I did was put the brake pipe through the chassis from the back end to the front and attached the loom via duck tape then carefully pulled it through, it does help if you have someone to feed the loom through from front to back, take your time though.

HTH

John

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I had the full loom out of my 1984 90. It was a replacement by someone else using a newer truck loom but there were mucked up wires all over the place so I decided to strip it out, separate the loom and then re-build it getting rid of any surplus wires. Bulkhead to rear section easy to get out - more difficult to get back through the chassis - I didn't bother - fitted some external cable protection and cable tied to the top of the chassis rail. Front section from b/head to lights also easy to remove. More time consuming is loom from instruments/column to fuse box and through bulkhead - lots of dash has to come out. Not a problem for me as I am doing the "routine defender repair" - start on one job (wipers), then go onto next and before you know it all the dash is out, the floors up, tranny oil replaced, etc :lol: One day it will be on the road again :rolleyes:

What I did find is that most of the electrical problems came from corroded connectors so I have done a lot of replacement of these as well.

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