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Prototype Rear Arms


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i.t.r.o 15mm at the highest point.

Chris

Think I'm right in thinking that when you bend the arms, you actually need to make them shorter so that the distance from pinion to pinion stays the same. It's to with Pythagoras and that!

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Nope, wrong way round, if you bend it, it needs to be longer to start with.

Luke

Yeah the actual bit of metal needs to be longer when measured around the curve, but the abolsute distance in a straight line will be less i think, as you will in effect be changing where the diff is if the absolute distance doesn't decrease.

hope that makes a little bit of sense

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agree with Jez, two pack epoxy is the way to go, the nickel will be durable if its not subjected to any physical contact with rocks and stuff, but will be quite brittle if stuff gets thrown up at it, and might chip.

good luck with them, they are a nice bit of work, and a sensible price....

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The arms will be supplied with 2,4 and 6mm shims for setting up length AND to rid the rear end crabing,have you ever the checked a landy on a proper wheel alignment set up :o:o .

Also i have some new bush retaining spacers being made as we speak to aid the chassis - arm flex.

Jez the plateing that my people do is not strictly nickle plating as we know it will let you know exactly what it is,we used it on the WRC car suspension arms on gravel events it never chipped,scratched or marked ??? also it was easy cleaned with duck oil and some scotch brite.

Chris

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Just thought i would post up a couple of pics of the proto rear arms i have been busy putting together.

SPEC

45 x 2.6 mm CDS 2

Isn't 2.6 a bit thin.

Surly it'll dent or bend if you contact anything hard.

I'd prefer a bit of 10mm wall DOM tubing myself.

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Isn't 2.6 a bit thin.

Surly it'll dent or bend if you contact anything hard.

I'd prefer a bit of 10mm wall DOM tubing myself.

45 x 2.6mm strength wise is more than up to the job,more so with the skid plates attached.Yep 10 mm DOM would be stronger in 45mm but the weight would be daft. :unsure:

Chris

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