MartinK Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 I just had my Discovery 2 TD5 MOT'd. Passed with flying colours (the MOT inspector thought the overall condition was excellent for it's 8 year age, and 161000 mile history). However I got an advisory on the front nearside track rod end. So - a 2-parted question... 1. I can buy the Track Rod short End (part QFS000010) for a few quid, and I guess I may as well replace the 2 clamps, and the rubber gaitor - all in all around £20-£30 delivered. Having heard horror stories about separating the track rod...I can buy the whole track rod assembly for a few quid more (Track Rod Complete With Ball Joints, part TIQ000010) - and replace both track rod ends at the same time (preumably the offside end will also be getting worn)? Maybe the small extra expense will save me a couple of hours struggling under the car to get the track rod split??? 2. Any hints/tips on doing the job? I guess I loosen all locking bolts (wire brush & penetrating oil before hand), measure the existing track rod and install the new components to the same length (thus ensuring the tracking is reasonably correct. Then I guess I plan to get a proper alignment check done in the short->medium term to make sure I get even tyre wear...? My current thought is to buy the Track Rod Complete With Ball Joints (part TIQ000010). That way I can take the existing track rod off as a whole without splitting it, and then simply put the new and old track rods side-by-side to that I can be absolutely sure they are set to the same length. Then I can drop the new one straight in and hey presto - I only have to take off the 2 nylock nuts on the lower side of the track rod connection? Does that sound like it makes sense? Keen to hear your advice/experience... Photo of offending end attached... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 The hard part can be separating the tie rod ends from the swivel housing. Search, there are lots of thread around on ways to do it. Getting them off of the tire rod is easy. I would suggest replacing both ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Replacing balljoints is easy after you get the threads turning I did two of mine on the n/s recently use OEM parts from a supplier on ebay they matched the original joints exactly, after i had done the job i then found this link on how to do it. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drag-link-ball-joint-renewal-82152.html On the n/s, the track rod is RH and the drag link is LH on o/s both are RH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 I would suggest that the N/S ball joint is more worn as it spends most of it's time going over potholes and drain covers at the side of the road. It can't hurt to replace the whole thing. Splitting the TREs from the swivel housing is simple enough. Undo the nylock nut a few turns, then place your jack under it and apply a some upward pressure. Then beat the living daylights out of hit the swivel arm and the two should come apart. Repeat on the other side. Getting the TREs out of the tie-bar has always been a PITA in my experience... Remember to apply some copper grease when putting it all back together... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinK Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 Brilliant - thanks gents - what a forum! I'll order the complete assembly - Track Rod Complete With Ball Joints (part TIQ000010) - that way I don't have to split the tie-bar from the TRE, and the cost difference is negligable (the complete unit comes with new brackets as well anyway). Looks like the concensus is that it's best to do the 2 sides at the same time, so I'll do that. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gripper Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 when you get the new rod it will be worth it in the long run to undo everything that turns and copper grease them when refitting them together then hopefully it shouldn't seize when you need to replace a track rod end next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinK Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 when you get the new rod it will be worth it in the long run to undo everything that turns and copper grease them when refitting them together then hopefully it shouldn't seize when you need to replace a track rod end next time. Gripper - thanks. I am a bit of a fetishist (?!) for waxoyl and copperslip - I think my Disco's a few kg's heavier than standard with all the waxoyl and grease under it... Every so often, I mix up a waxoyl/engine oil/gear oil mix, and smother the chassis... New track rod assembly ordered from Paddock (Britpart item I think - good price), should arrive today Have to say I am impresed with the Paddock service... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Paddock service is one thing, but I'm not so sure on the Britpart side of things... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splutter Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 All the parts are all about the same quality nowadays Made by one maufacturer and bought by the 3 major suppliers ( Britpart, Bearmach, Allmakes,) and boxed up acordingly Paddocks service is quite good now and the quality controll has improved. Just purchased a lower crank gear for disco 1 and the quality was good, This one had machined sides, a lot better than the spot welded washer that was on the original. Oh! and their parabolic Springs for the series vehicles are now better quality and made by British Spring so no longer cheap nasty %%%p. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 All the parts are all about the same quality nowadays . I thinks there are alot of people that would disagree with this statement! Just talking abouit track rod ends the difference between Britpart and genuine is dramatic, i certainly wouldnt use a Britpart part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barriesheene Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Hi. I ended up replacing the lot after buying just the track rod ends and being unable to remove them. Thus I had twice the expense . Intresting to see the comments on the copper grease tho. I wasnt sure so didnt grease in case this was a no-no cos they are steering parts. Wasnt sure how much to retigten the clamps either as I was afraid of distorting the bar and allowing movement ?? As for refitting. I did the same and lined them up side by side but it was still out. I was scrubbing the outside of the tyres and the steering wheel was out of line. Adjusted by eye in the end with a long piece of wood from the rears. Just gotta go get aligned properly now. Steering is straight and tyres not rubbing so it cant be far out. At least they've got nice new parts to adjust !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 You'll be glad you bought the complete unit. On the D2 track rod one of the ball joints doesn't come out, it's pressed in, so you have to replace the whole track rod if that end needs changing. Ask me how I know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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