tweetyduck Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Are these bad enough to warrant a change? (see pic) The seals don't seem to be leaking and they do seem to have been done by the previous owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Mines look like that since 2 years ago, no problem no noises.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Have you checked to see if they have oil or grease in them ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Mine look the same and are still okay. Weep a tiny bit, but I top it up when necessary. I'd get some new seals/balls and wait until you either have to change them due to a major seal failure, or such a time that you are going to be delving that far into the axle anyhow. It's a nuts and bolts job but takes a while, unless you do the 'cut and super-glue' trick with the seal and don't replace the balls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 @Mike No, but i will now. I'd only had look in the end of the sub axle and the grease in there looks OK. Infact i'd say it was reasonably new. I just wonder if its worth stripping it down and replacing all the seals and the swivel ball and bearings. The Garage want £528 to do it which i think is a bit steep for something i can do myself. It looks very easy. The two tuts on here for changing the balls are great and the haynes manual has a pretty good description. 2 FTC4785 HUB OIL SEAL INNER Brand New (Genuine) 2 FTC3179 STUB AXLE NUT LOCK WASHER Brand New (Genuine) 2 571752 AXLE DRIVE MEMBER GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 2 FRC7065 SWIVEL HOUSING ASSY Brand New (Replacement OEM) 2 FTC3401 CHROME BALL SWIVEL OIL SEAL Brand New (Genuine) 2 FTC3646 CHROME BALL TO AXLE CASE GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 4 606666 BOTTOM SWIVEL PIN BEARING Brand New (Genuine) 2 FTC3648 FRONT STUB AXLE GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 3 STC3435S SWIVEL HOUSING GREASE SACHET Brand New (Replacement) 2 FTC3276 OIL SEAL SWIVEL HOUSING INNER Brand New (Genuine) 2 FRC2894 LOWER SWIVEL PIN Brand New (Replacement) 2 FTC2882 SWIVEL PIN UPPER NON ABS Brand New (Replacement) 2 FTC3647 LOWER SWIVEL PIN GASKET Brand New (Replacement) 2 FRC2885 SHIM SWIVEL PIN 0.01MM Brand New (Replacement) 2 FRC2886 SWIVEL PIN SHIM 0.03 Brand New (Replacement) 4 STC4382 HUB BEARING - OEM Brand New (Replacement TIMKIN) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 I am guessing that they are grease filled as the pitting is bad yet there seams to be no oil leak (unless they are dry!). Personally I would replace them. I did mine a couple of years ago and they were nothing like as bad as that (in fact one was perfect but as I was replacing the pitted one with a Teflon coated ball it made sense to do them both at the same time). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 they're not dry but they're not full either. One has more than the other. How much should be in there? I undid the top 13mm square bolt and used a torch. Could see a bit in the bottom of one and the other not much. I suppose i should just replace them and do the job properly. Whilst i'm doing it is there anything else I might as well do? or something thats easier to do whilst i have them off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver110 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Is there any play in the swivel bearings? If everything else is fine I personally wouldn't bother doing them yet, wait untill something else needs doing, wheel bearings,swivel bearings etc. doing them now would be a waist of time / money. You will not be improving reliability by doing them , you won't break down because of this slight pitting and the longer you leave it to fit new ones the longer the new ones will last! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 If oil [ep90] filled the correct level is to the bottom of the level plug threads, if 'one shot' grease then 1 sachet of grease per swivel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 Is there any play in the swivel bearings? If everything else is fine I personally wouldn't bother doing them yet, wait untill something else needs doing, wheel bearings,swivel bearings etc. doing them now would be a waist of time / money. You will not be improving reliability by doing them , you won't break down because of this slight pitting and the longer you leave it to fit new ones the longer the new ones will last! There doest seem to be any play. I do have a leaking hub oil seal though so i'm going to have to get into there anyhow. Also one of the wheel bearings is going so thats another reason. I think i might as well bite the bullet and do the lot. At least its then done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Neil Just because one bearing isn't right don't think the others will be the same. Just do the leaking oil seal and the necessary bearings. Do however take the other hubs off and re-grease the bearings. I've yet to renew a Land Rover wheel bearing not on my Range Rover or my Defender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Do them both now, expecially if your still talking about a long term expidition. Do it yourself rather than a garage doing it-the more things you pull apart now the better, you'll know how it goes together and you'll have used copper grease and replaced any dodgy fixings meaning you'll stand half a chance of getting it apart when your 8 hours from civilisation and it breaks. Edited to add driving corrugated African roads hammers swivel bearings-new ones are going to last you longer than whatevers in there and at least you'll know how to set the preload should you get the 'death wobbles' from low swivel preload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 @mike yes thats almost certainly true as the previous owner seemed to look after it. however for the small cost of a new one i think i might as well. I'm going to do as you advise and also replce the seal but i will just replace the bearings anyhow. Seems like a small price for piece of mind. Cheers! Should i got for the HD drive memeber FTC859A? Seems little point without the axle? @RNP good advice and i'm learning as i go. I was looking at some comma bearing grease and loctite on the threads. I know you mentioned copper geease but is that really wise on bolts that kkep the wheels on the corners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 follow the manual regarding which bolts should be loctited-everything else smoother in copper grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I'd pull it apart and check it all anyway if I were planning your trip , and that swivel is rough so new swivels + kingpin bearings + seals - not expensive bits and hasslefree. While apart wash out CV joints and check for wear/pitting also you should pull the halfshafts and check condition of splines. Not sure you need hardened drive members , so long as the splines are a good close fit on the drive shaft I'd think that would be fine. ...my preference for lube is the one shot grease. While you are under there it would be worth while freeing off the trackrod ends in the trackrod and the draglink and coppergreasing the threads, again much less hassle later cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I have no idea about these things so its a question rather than a statement ... Would oil in the hubs be better than one shot? easier to change in the middle of no where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Since your stated intention is to take this truck overlanding, if that is likely to happen before the next round of maintenance I would replace everything that's not 100%. If some of the old bits are servicable (EG those swivels are pretty decent) then stick them on the shelf as spares for when things are a bit less critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Since your stated intention is to take this truck overlanding, if that is likely to happen before the next round of maintenance I would replace everything that's not 100%. If some of the old bits are servicable (EG those swivels are pretty decent) then stick them on the shelf as spares for when things are a bit less critical. thanks good advice that a few others have also said. I shall save everything for now. I've just ordered £800 worth of parts incl new swivels, bearings, seering damper, track rod ends (which i'll copper grease ), Rear prop UJs, Radiator hoses, gaskets and all sort of stuff. I basically took the engineers report and bought all the parts. Well all except the stuff i don't think i want to tackle yet. Anything that involves bolts and bits i can do. Things that involve brake master cylinders and things like that i'm giving a miss till i get get some profession help/advice and someone to show me. This will either involve the specialist and time in their shop or beer tokens for an member. Thats a big chunk of the budget gone but a lot less than the specialist doing it so 50% saved really, my own labour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Good oh Neill ..the feeling of knowing your own car on big trips through nowhere is priceless though Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Neil May I suggest you get a heavy duty trackrod. The TRE's screw into the tube and are locke by lock nuts. A much better idea then the Land Rover chocolate one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 I'll take a look mike. I'm presuming the TREs stay the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Yes Neil Mine came complete with greasable TRE's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 My motto is "I use the truck when I need it. Therefore I am proactive and get these petty things done before it gets worse and break down when I most need it". I changed the balls on mine which looked far better than yours. I stripped all and did not take short cuts at putting the seal on. One year now and the truck just smiles at me everyday... Get it done and live with a good concience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaub Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Hi all I have a 1995 defender 110 and I have just done my swivel housing due to the ball being damaged. In the end I did the ball, all seals, gaskets and bearings.The only thing I couldn't do was the stub axle bearing as you have to take that to a dealer to have that done. The general opinion is that they very rarely fail anyway. All was pretty easy as I am no mechanic. You just need to be careful to make sure the drift and the preload are right.I used a digital gauge on mine. It all cost about £90. One of the most expensive things I found was the drift shims as there are twelve of them of various thicknesses ranging from £2-£6 each this made it a total of £35. Just a note to neill.birdThe Haynes Workshop Manual is ok but for £15 you are better off with the Haynes Restoration Manual which has a step by step illustrated section with full text and much better pictures.It is a lot clearer to follow. The only tools that I needed apart from the torche wrench and a variety of sockets was the large socket for the hub nut to set it to the right torche. If anyone is interested I have a full set of torche settings for the whole job. Hope this helps Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I second the copper grease comments! Amazing stuff, you cant quite beat the feeling of getting ready to attack a bolt that you think is going to be stuck solid, and instead it just undoes like its new beautiful... But yes, only use it in the right places- most of these are common sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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