FridgeFreezer Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Just a note to neill.birdThe Haynes Workshop Manual is ok but for £15 you are better off with the Haynes Restoration Manual which has a step by step illustrated section with full text and much better pictures.It is a lot clearer to follow. I find the genuine parts book is the best guide, combined with the freely downloadable RAVE manuals. The parts book shows you how everything goes together, the RAVE book will give any special numbers / instructions you may need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 is the parts book....available? I have the rave disk. thanks allfor the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 is the parts book....available? I have the rave disk. thanks allfor the advice. 110 parts book on Madcowz's web pages here same version that I use to give part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 thanks western thats great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 So it decided to snow quite a bit last night so my undo all the bolts session is cancelled. Question for today is how difficult is it to remove the roof of a CSW? Am i corrct in thinking that its just undoing all the bolts? Are there any seals that need replcaing and if so where? Do i need some seam sealent for replcaing it? How much does it weigh? I want to take it off so i can bond carpet (or something)to the underside to stop the condensation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 When i'm doing Hub end float measurements i'm measuring the end float from the Hub nut to where? Wheres the reference point for the other end of the dial gauge? I'm thining if buying a magnetic guage as its quite cheap so the reference surface need to be magnetic and not aluminuim. what surface should i use the manual is a bit none specific. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 So it decided to snow quite a bit last night so my undo all the bolts session is cancelled. Question for today is how difficult is it to remove the roof of a CSW? Am i corrct in thinking that its just undoing all the bolts? Are there any seals that need replcaing and if so where? Do i need some seam sealent for replcaing it? How much does it weigh? I want to take it off so i can bond carpet (or something)to the underside to stop the condensation. seals all round where roof side panels meet, you'll need a least 3 minimum to lift the roof off, don't know how much it wieghs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 When i'm doing Hub end float measurements i'm measuring the end float from the Hub nut to where? Wheres the reference point for the other end of the dial gauge? I'm thining if buying a magnetic guage as its quite cheap so the reference surface need to be magnetic and not aluminuim. what surface should i use the manual is a bit none specific. The hub itself, with the probe on the hub nut or the rim of the stub axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 Thanks both for your answers. Western, is this the stuff? Suppose i need a roll of each then. STC3291 STC3289 I get the feeling theres quite a few other bits that might be needed. I was looking at these also. 334615 which are now DDL500011 Will i need the windsreen top seals also? This might be a bigger job than i thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Thanks both for your answers. Western, is this the stuff? Suppose i need a roll of each then. STC3291 STC3289 I get the feeling theres quite a few other bits that might be needed. I was looking at these also. 334615 which are now DDL500011 Will i need the windsreen top seals also? This might be a bigger job than i thought the 25m strip seal would do, but it's meant for a 90. 110 has these MXC3676 RH upper MXC3677 LH upper MXC3684 RH upper Front MXC3685 LH upper Front the 334615 fits on top of the B post [door pillar] the screen seals are MTC994 & MTC6568, one fits in a track on the roof, the other is self adhesive to top of front screen frame.if the existing area in good order I'd probably leave them in place. hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 21, 2010 Author Share Posted February 21, 2010 thanks. once i know how to get the dam thing off i'll get all the bits and follow your advice. At the very least this will point me at the correct parts as its certainly not a 90. Strange how the disk thinks those parts are OK. oh well....Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 to remove the roof. remove interior mirrior & mounting & the sun visors & screen pillar trims remove the trim panels around rear windows & the trim above 2nd row doors inc the 4 grab handles remove the 3 part headliner & trim above rear door & extract from vehicle [you'll love that bit] undo & remove the bolts/nuts around the inner gutter & 5 in the screen frame to roof joint. with at least 3 or 4 assistants lift the roof from the vehicle & stow in a safe dry place & cover the vehicle to keep the weather out/store in garage/workshop I think that's all IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Right almost all the trim is out. Wasn't very careful but its likely that most of it is going in the bin. A few swear words were used . Will post some photos. Its now uniformally raining condensation front to back and the inside roof gutter is full of water at the rear (my drive has slight slope). Now i just need to get ready for the removal,,, and get some help. Thanks Western. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 All the parts arrived today. I say all,,as there's a back order and some little stuff missing. Considering its was a big order they've done as well as i expected. Well done Brit-Car. (missing an two intetnal Hub seals and two lock washers so no biggy) Now i've just got to decide which order to do stuff. Once i remove a corner/swivel i can hardly drive to the speicalist and ask for help. So i'll be relying on you helpful lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Now i've just got to decide which order to do stuff. Once i remove a corner/swivel i can hardly drive to the speicalist and ask for help. So i'll be relying on you helpful lot. Three wheels on my wagon......You have my number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thanks Mike....there's only two wheels now and two axle stands and they don't spin round properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 is there a trick to remove the 14mm swivel bolts. i'm scared i'm going to snap the damn spanner.....they're stuck fast. no problem i got then now. not sure two spanners linked is safe but hey, what the hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 The bolts that hold the ball to the axle tube? They are very tight, but providing you have a good spanner fit (12-point ring spanner), then they'll come undone. They are thread locked as well. Make sure you do them up really tight as well - with fresh threadlock. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 thanks. Les. Eventually got them indone. They were very tight. Got thread lock. Now know why the ball was knackered. Whoever did them last time left a individual bearing roller in from the old swivel pin bearing. It was just rattiling round in there. The bottom bearing is cracked and damaged. I'll post a photo later! Back to start putting it all together. This should be fun. I'm good at taking things apart. Putting them back togeather isn't my strong point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 so the question is should i change my wheel bearings? How hard is it to get the runners out of the hub? Do i just hit them? Putting i the new ones might be more challenging. How do i get em in without wrecking them? I've done one swivel, pins and bearings and am just putting it back together. 7 hours for one and its not back together yet. Next one should be quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 so the question is should i change my wheel bearings? What condition are they in? there's no point changing them for the hell of it. On the other hand, if they're of unknown condition, you can eliminate the uncertainty and change them. Drift the old races out with a suitable long punch. Drift the new ones in, you can use an old race to protect the new one. slit it through so it's easy to remove. It's not a hard job, once the hubs are off it only takes ten minutes or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 Super thanks Luke. Thats just what i needed. Also saw Whites sliced race in the tech archive so i made two to bash in the new one. Used a dremmel to slice them. Took me ten mins like you said. Thankyou as for the condition i reccon they were good but now they're brand new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 Should i leave off the front brakes mud shield? Do i use an entire sachet of one shot in each swivel? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 As you're planning to overland, I would leave the stone guards on. Use a whole sachet. One shot... Key is the name Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 knew it was a dumb question but nothings usually that simple. Except me. i'll refit the guards. thanks! one side nearly finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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